WEST COAST SANGIOVESES
A Blind-Tasting
August 27, 2003 |
Notes by
Gerald Weisl,
wine merchant
We were curious to have a look at the current state of Sangiovese in
California, so we assembled a range of wines from different regions and included
a famous wine from Washington state as well.
Sangiovese has generated some interest amongst California vintners, more so,
perhaps, than it has for consumers.
The character of Sangiovese is that it tends to be lighter in body than
Cabernet, Merlot and Zinfandel. In this day when many consumers look for
inky, black wines which are impressive for size and power, it's no wonder the
relatively mild-mannered Sangiovese has not found a wider audience.
Our tasting found a set of, surprisingly, good wines. One critic, though,
may have gotten it right when looking at the roster of wines, saying "I
must have mis-poured the Sangioveses, because I didn't taste any $60 wine in
this tasting."
I felt we had good wines, though. Whether of not the wines warrant the
price tags is another question.
One wine pretty much out-distanced the field.
Here's what we found:
The Wines |
Gerald's Rank |
Ellen's Rank |
Bob's Rank |
GROUP RANK |
Total Points |
1sts/2nds/
Lasts |
ATLAS PEAK WINERY
2000
Napa
Atlas
Peak
Sangiovese Reserve
$30 |
2 |
3 |
1 |
4 |
70 |
3/2/4 |
BOEGER
2000
El Dorado County
Sangiovese
Reserve
$24 |
8 |
7 |
6 |
6 |
78 |
2/0/2 |
FERRARI CARANO
2000
Sonoma
-
Siena
-
$23 |
5 |
5 |
4 |
7 |
80 |
0/0/1 |
FOPPIANO
2000
Alexander Valley
Sangiovese
$16 |
1 |
1 |
8 |
5 |
70 |
2/2/2 |
LEONETTI CELLARS
2001
Walla Walla Washington
Sangiovese
$60 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
1 |
40 |
3/4/0 |
LUNA VINEYARDS
1999 Napa
Sangiovese Riserva
$40 |
7 |
8 |
3 |
8 |
87 |
0/2/4 |
Gianni PAOLETTI
2000 Napa Valley
-La Forza-
$33 |
3 |
4 |
7 |
3 |
59 |
1/4/1 |
PETRONI
1999 Sonoma Valley
-Poggio alla Pietra- Sangiovese
$59 |
6 |
6 |
2 |
2 |
56 |
4/1/1 |
NOTES ASSEMBLED BY BOB GORMAN
8TH PLACE: LUNA VINEYARDS 1999 NAPA SANGIOVESE RISERVA
One taster found notes of "earth, plums, anise, tobacco and
minerals." Another liked its "dark fruits and complexity" but was
turned off by a certain "weirdness." An eighth place vote came
with the comment "classically over-extracted wine; a disaster!"
Another detractor found "ethyl acetate and a bitter, shrill and
hot wine in the mouth." (Editor's note: ethyl acetate is an ester, a
volatile compound of ethanol and acetic acid that inevitably develops into
acetic acid in the bottle. Other alcohols and acids can bind to form esters).
Bob also found "a sharp estery note but not necessarily ethyl acetate.
There were also prune-plums (perhaps a bit of Syrah in there?) very ripe fruit
with Sangiovese character coming up finally. There were prune plums on the
palate, too. The (over) ripeness pushes the Sangiovese fruit beyond any
possibility of subtlety or complexity.
Gerald found an "odd cellar note to this wine...is it corked or tainted,
perhaps? That fragrance seemed to dissipate. The wine is rather
charry on the palate with a 'burnt' note as its central theme. Not
unpleasant, though. One star on my three star scale, no stars being a
standard or ordinary wine."
7TH PLACE: FERRARI CARANO 2000 SONOMA -SIENA-
"Tart berries and rhubarb" remarked one taster, "with cherries
and some heat on the finish." Another found "vanilla from the oak; a
drinkable red with a bit of stuffing." Another found a "stinky wine
with a hot finish and not a trace of Sangiovese fruit."
Bob liked it, "not so much as an interpretation of Sangiovese but as an
old-fashioned California red wine. Some Sangiovese character did come up
eventually showing dried cherries, orange peel and wood from large tanks rather
than small barrels." His palate cried out "where's my spaghetti!
Here's an old Sonoma take on Sangiovese. Nice in its way." He also noted
the "heat on the finish."
Gerald found this to be a "Chianti-styled red with a mildly cherryish fruit
character and a touch of vanilla from the oak. The elements show nicely on
the palate, too. Very pleasant wine. One-and-a-half stars."

6TH PLACE: BOEGER 2000 EL DORADO COUNTY SANGIOVESE RESERVE
"Big wine!" exclaimed one taster, "a bit musty at first but opens
nicely; racy, berryish." Another taster had an interesting take on
it: "green beans and lemon grass in the nose and a silky texture
in the mouth with hints of sassafras and parsnip." Another taster
found "dusty, earthy tones with black currant and coffee on the
nose and black fruits, chocolate on the palate with dusty plums on the
finish." Another was less impressed. "Clumsy, over weight and under
achieving; ripe to the point of syrupy." The wine as it turned out had an
alcohol level of 15.8%(!).
Bob's note quoted "dusty, earthy tones" (above). He also found some
"wet leather (from Brettanomyces) and a nice bit of Sangiovese fruit in
there, dried cherries especially. Ripe black fruit & fruit skins showed on
the palate, the Brettanomyces is less pronounced there but the fruit wants
concentration, balance; a wine with a rustic edge."
Gerald detected a sweet cherry aroma and a hint of a floral quality on the
nose. "The wine features some ripe cherry fruit and a bit of heat on
the palate with a medium level of tannin. One half star, perhaps."

5TH PLACE: FOPPIANO 2000 ALEXANDER VALLEY SANGIOVESE
One taster caught "a whiff of hydrogen sulfide (H2S)
which gave
way to notes of herbs, tar and leather with some bitter chocolate
and oak and heat but not a lot of fruit on the palate." More than
one taster found it "shrill and sharp." Another found "leather,
blackberry, tobacco, spice and oak." Another found it "the least of
the set to show Sangiovese character."
Bob found "curious but correct Sangiovese aroma: meaty, sweet spice (from
oak and fruit) with traces of tin can & ammonia. Cherry fruit came up
finally. But it performed even less well on the palate with raspy tannins,
over-ripe fruit (like an over-the-hill peach!) and only moderate concentration.
Nice try boys!"
As with other recent releases from Foppiano, this wine has a lovely, woodsy
fragrance. "I don't understand why some tasters react negatively to
this element in the wine." said Gerald. He found lots of "sweet,
cedar fragrances and a coffee aroma, too. Certainly an
internationally-styled red wine...very showy. Two stars!"
4TH PLACE: ATLAS PEAK WINERY 2000 NAPA (ATLAS PEAK) SANGIOVESE RESERVE
In spite of ending up in the middle range, this wine's detractors
were vociferous. "Sulfur, sour grapefruit and way out of balance."
Another: "Musty aroma, bitter aftertaste." And yet
another: "Light, minimal fruit," and finally: "Burnt rubber
tire,
stinky, flat, tannic and muddled."
Bob's take was completely different. He did get a bit of "rubber tire at
first but it gives way to generous Sangiovese fruit with a sweet berry leaf
herbaceous edge and dried fruits (citron, orange peel); terrific nose! On the
palate very Tuscan in style; drying tannins, nice length; a serious Sangiovese
interpretation." N.B. Post tasting, Bob and another long time taster agreed
that "this was easily the best Atlas Peak Sangiovese to date."
The property is owned and managed by the famed Tuscan house of Antinori.
Gerald said "This is the best Atlas Peak Sangiovese I've ever tasted!
There's an odd note reminiscent of eucalyptus or a resiny quality on the nose,
but also a nice cherry character. The wine is not particularly profound or
deep, but it does offer a good Sangiovese flavor without pretensions to being
something like a Cabernet-fortified Super Tuscan. Served in place of a
good Chianti, this would certainly be a satisfying wine. One-and-a-half
stars."
3RD PLACE: GIANNI PAOLETTI 2000 NAPA VALLEY -LA FORZA-
One taster found "typical Sangiovese character" and another said
"nice wine but could use more fruit." Someone else found "bright
cherries, not a powerhouse but nice." For another there were "floral
notes on the nose and berries and anise on the palate." Another was much
taken: "gorgeous, velvety, Yum!"
For Bob "wood and alcohol dominate giving the wine a curious spirity note
(perhaps Armagnac?). Some Sangiovese fruit and spice and a metallic edge come
up. I get Calvados on the palate. The fruit is totally unfocused, lost between
the oak and alcohol."
Gerald described this as being reminiscent of a "baby Brunello. The
wine features some ripe, warm Sangiovese fruit with a touch of a woodsy
quality. The tannin level is probably too high given the fruit on the
palate, but it is still a good wine. It leans towards being a tad rustic,
but I still give it a one star rating."
2ND PLACE: PETRONI 1999 SONOMA VALLEY SANGIOVESE -POGGIO ALLAPIETRA-
"Huge, intense and yet well balanced!" exclaimed one taster.
Another found it "distinctly Sangiovese in character" Another
palate saw "minerals, white cranberries, toasty oak and herbs."
Bob found "candle wax, cola, vanilla from oak; with 'fruit cake'
stuff going on. Nice but is this Sangiovese? Sweet, spicy oak
shows up on the palate and finally some nice, ripe Sangiovese
fruit with the wood adding considerable tannin and a spicy
finish."
Gerald found this to be "Mildly brambly with a rather ripe note to the
fruit. There's a woodsy note on the nose and some spice and pepper. On the
palate it's a bit strong and the alcohol shows some heat. Still, a
very nice wine. Ridiculously priced, though. One star."
1ST PLACE: LEONETTI CELLARS 2001 WALLA WALLA SANGIOVESE
The favorite of one taster, it is "complex, complete with notes of
roasted plums, vanilla, wild yeast; a smooth, mellow wine with a
long finish." "A silky oak-driven wine," said another.
"There are
blueberries and a metallic edge; not a typical Sangiovese but
nice." Other comments included "lighter fluid," "bitter
grapefruit," "saddle leather" and "goat cheese"
(pejorative).
Bob found a "dusty, chalky edge and full bore Sangiovese fruit and lots of
sweet oak. Is there some Merlot going on in there? On the palate there's
structure, cherries but here the Sangiovese seems to get lost amid all that
oak."
Gerald encountered "ripe, almost stewed cherry fruit with a light oak note
on the nose. The wine has good Sangiovese fruit on the palate and a nice
bit of vanilla from the oak. One-and-a-half stars."
Please note: The wines tasted are not always wines
we have (or have had) in the shop.
Many bottles are merely for our enological exploration.
Price quoted are current at the time of the tasting, but may be different
when you're reading this. |
WE HAVE NOT ORGANIZED A TASTING IN A WHILE...
BUT WE DO POST THE RESULTS OF A PRIVATE TASTING GROUP THAT'S BEEN MEETING FOR
MORE THAN 47 YEARS!
We are working on
organizing some blind-tastings at the shop.
Send us a note to indicate your interest in participating.
These would be on Wednesday evenings and you'd need to bring 8 wine glasses.
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VINO-FINO TASTERS
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THE WORLD November 2005
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WINES FROM CAMPANIA & BASILICATA May 2004
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1997
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2001
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2000
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2000
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2000
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OFF
THE BEATEN PATH SYRAHS APRIL 16, 2003
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SAUVIGNON BLANCS March 19, 2003
1999
California CABERNETS February 19, 2003
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PINOT NOIRS 1999-2000 November 20, 2002
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WHITE WINES October 16, 2002
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SHIRAZ August 21, 2002
CHAMPAGNES
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Interesting
Paired CHARDONNAYS
May 15, 2002
2001
Southern Hemisphere SAUVIGNON BLANCS Feb. 20, 2002
1999 ZINFANDELS January 16, 2002
HOLIDAY
SEASON BACCHANALIA
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1999-2000
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1999
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1998
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1999
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1997
SAUTERNES July 18, 2001
Mostly
1998 NEBBIOLO June 20, 2001
1999 PINOT NOIRS May
16, 2001
1996
SAINT-MILION Tasting April 18, 2001
CARNEROS
CHARDONNAYS March 21, 2001
1984-1985
NAPA CABERNETS/John Vignau Memorial Tasting October 20, 2000
1997
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 20, 2000
1998 CALIFORNIA
CHARDONNAYS August 16, 2000
WINES
FROM THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE: CLARETS June 21, 2000
WINES
FROM UNDER THE TUSCAN (and Umbrian) SUN Aprile 19, 2000
1997 BORDEAUX: MEDOC May 17,
2000
WEIMAX TASTING ARCHIVE
NAPA
CABERNETS 2004 Vintage March 19, 2008
CALIFORNIA
PINOT NOIRS-2005s March 13, 2008
OREGON
PINOT NOIRS February 6, 2008
MOSTLY
2004 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS April 25, 2007
WASHINGTON
STATE CLARETS April, 11, 2007
2004
NORTHERN RHONE SYRAHS April 4, 2007
2001
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO March 28, 2007
2001
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 8, 2006
2003
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 18, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPES-Flight #2 October 4, 2006
OLDER
TUSCAN REDS--MOSTLY SANGIOVESES September 20, 2006
2003
NAPA CABERNETS July 19, 2006
2003
SAINT EMILIONS July 12, 2006
CALIFORNIA
SYRAHS 2003-2004 July 5, 2006
2004
CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS June 21, 2006
GRAND
CRU BURGUNDIES 2003 VINTAGE May 31, 2006
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 CABERNETS & 1990 BORDEAUX May 17, 2006
SOUTH
AMERICAN CLARETS May 10, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE May 3, 2006
2004
GOLDEN STATE PINOT NOIRS April 19, 2006
2002
NAPA CABERNETS March 15, 2006
2003
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2006
2003
NORTH COAST ZINFANDELS March 1, 2006
1996
BURGUNDIES vs. 1997 SONOMA PINOT NOIRS November 9, 2005
2002
CABERNETS, ETC. November 2, 2005
2002 NAPA
CABERNETS October 19, 2005
2002
GRAND CRU BURGUNDIES September 14, 2005
2002
RED BURGUNDIES September 7, 2005
2002
MEURSAULTS August 31, 2005
NORTHERN
RHNE SYRAHS August 17, 2005
HIGHLY-REGARDED AUSSIE
SHIRAZ August 10, 2005
AUSSIE SHIRAZ UNDER
$60 August 3, 2005
STUPIDLY-PRICED
SPANISH TEMPRANILLO WINES June 8, 2005
RANDOM
CALIFORNIA SYRAHS June 1, 2005
2002
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS May 18, 2005
2001
NAPA CABERNETS May 11, 2005
OREGON
PINOT NOIRS-2002 & 2003 VINTAGE WINES April 27, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 BURGUNDIES and a COUPLE OF CALIFORNIA PINOTS April 6, 2005
CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS (Mostly 2002s) MARCH 16, 2002
1999
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 9, 2005
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS March 2, 2005
PETITE
SIRAHS February 16, 2005
ROS CHAMPAGNES AND
CALIFORNIA PINK BUBBLIES February 9, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1991 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS January 19, 2005
2001
FAMOUS AND INFAMOUS CABERNETS November 10, 2004
2001
Napa CABERNETS November 3, 2004
WEST
COAST SYRAHS October 20, 2004
1990
RED BORDEAUX & CALIFORNIA CLARETS October 13, 2004
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLOS of 1999 & 2000 September 29, 2004
2002
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET September 8, 2004
2002
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET September 1, 2004
UNDER
THE RADAR PINOT NOIRS August 18, 2004
2001
SAINT-JULIEN & PAUILLACS July 21, 2004
2001
MARGAUX July 14, 2004
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1982 BORDEAUX July 7, 2004
2001 POMEROLS
June 30, 2004
2001
SAINT MILIONS June 16, 2004
2000
CLOS de VOUGEOT (and a ringer) MAY 12, 2004
2001
OREGON PINOT NOIRS May 5, 2004
2001
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS April 21, 2004
1994
WEST COAST CABERNETS APRIL 14, 2004
1999-2000 BORDEAUX COMPARISON
March 10, 2004
1999
BAROLO March 3, 2004
2000
Deluxe Napa CABERNETS February 18, 2004
2000
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS $50 & Under February 11, 2004
1998 BRUNELLO
DI MONTALCINO February 4, 2004
TURLEY
ZINFANDELS 1995 & 1999 Vintages January 7, 2004
2000
PRESTIGIOUS WEST COAST CABERNETS November 12, 2003
1999
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 5, 2003
SANTA
LUCIA HIGHLANDS PINOT NOIRS October 29, 2003
MOSTLY
2001 VINTAGE GIGONDAS October 22, 2003
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLO WINES October 9, 2003
SPARKLING
WINES-METHODE CHAMPENOISE October 1, 2003
1996
(Mostly) AUSTRALIAN (Mostly) SHIRAZ September 24, 2003
2000
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES September 10, 2003
PRIORATO
WINES FROM SPAIN September 3, 2003
WEST
COAST SANGIOVESES August 27, 2003
2000
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET (Mostly Premier Cru Wines) August 13, 2003
2000
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY August 6, 2003
2000
NAPA CABERNETS July 30, 2003
1999
TUSCAN SANGIOVESE-BASED WINES July 23, 2003
2000
VINTAGE MERLOTS July 9, 2003
SYRAHS
FROM HITHER & YON July 2, 2003
2001 CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS June 25, 2003
NEW
PINOT NOIRS June 4, 2003
1999
NAPA CABERNETS May 28, 2003
1994
PINOT NOIRS May 14, 2003
CHILEAN
CLARETS May 7, 2003
PETITE
SIRAHS of Current Release.
April 30, 2003
1999
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHETS Premier Cru Selections April 9, 2003
1999
GRAND CRU'S of GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN April 2, 2003
1999-2000 SOUTHERN FRENCH REDS (RHONE
WANNABE'S) MARCH 26, 2003
1995-1996
VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE TASTING MARCH 12, 2003
2000
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TASTING MARCH 5, 2003
2000
NAPA VALLEY CABERNET TASTING FEBRUARY 26th, 2003
1990
FRENCH RED BURGUNDY TASTING February 12, 2003
1999
& 2000 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS November 13, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS November 6, 2002
1997
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO OCTOBER 30, 2002
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING OCTOBER 23, 2002
1999
CHATEAUNEUF-du-PAPE TASTING October 9, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS September 25, 2002
1999
WASHINGTON STATE CABERNETS September 11, 2002
1991
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 4, 2002
1999
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1er Cru Tasting August 28, 2002
AUSTRALIAN
CABERNETS (Mostly 1999s) August 14, 2002
1999
FRENCH BURGUNDY July 24, 2002
1999
GRAVES BLANC July 10, 2002
2000
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY July 3, 2002
1999/2000
CONDRIEU TASTING June 26, 2002
1999
PAUILLAC & SAINT JULIEN TASTING June 12, 2002
1999
MARGAUX TASTING June 5, 2002
1985
CABERNETS & MEDOC TASTING May 29, 2002
1998
California CABERNETS May 22, 2002
South
American MALBEC May 8, 2002
1999
West Coast MERLOTS May 1, 2002
Central
Coast (California) PINOT NOIRS April 24, 2002
2001
Southern Hemisphere SAUVIGNON BLANCS April 10, 2002
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINFANDELS April 3, 2002
1999
FRENCH RHÔNE SYRAHS February 13, 2002
(Mostly) 1999 CALIFORNIA SYRAHS January 30,
2002
MORE
1997 BAROLO January 23, 2002
1997
Late-Released CABERNETS January 9, 2002
1997
BAROLO October 24, 2001
1985-1990
RED BURGUNDIES October 10, 2001
1998
Grand Crus of Gevrey Chambertin October 3, 2001
PRIORAT
WINES September 26, 2001
1998
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE September 12, 2001
1999
"High Roller" CHARDONNAYS September 5, 2001
1998
BORDEAUX August 22, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS August 8, 2001
1997
VOSNE-ROMANÉE
Tasting August 1, 2001
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINS July 25, 2001
1998 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS
July 11, 2001
OLD
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS June 6, 2001
1997 ECHEZEAUX May 30, 2001
1999 NORTH
COAST ZINFANDELS May 23, 2001
1999
West Coast Merlots May 9, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS May 2, 2001
1997
BARBARESCO April 25, 2001
Mostly RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIRS
April 11, 2001
1997
NAPA CABERNETS April 4, 2001
1995
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 28, 2001
1997 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY &
MOREY SAINT DENIS
with one 1996...March 14, 2001
1997
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN March 7, 2001
1996
BAROLO February 28, 2001
1978-1979
California Cabernets January 10, 2001
1997
California Cabernets November 8, 2000
1997
TUSCAN SANGIOVESES November 1, 2000
1997-1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
& CALIFORNIA WANNABEEs October 25, 2000
Mostly 1998 PINOT NOIRS
October 11, 2000
1996
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 4, 2000
MATURE
CLARETS September 27, 2000
1997
RED BORDEAUX September 13, 2000
1997 NAPA CABERNETS
September 6, 2000
1998
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS August 30, 2000
1997 CLOS DE VOUGEOTS August 23,
2000
PETITE
SIRAH & SYRAH (West Coast) August 9, 2000
FANCY
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS August 2, 2000
1996
FAMOUS CALIFORNIA CABERNETS June 14, 2000
WEST
COAST SYRAHS June 7, 2000
1997 CABERNETS May 31,
2000
VIOGNIERS
of RECENT VINTAGE May 24, 2000
1997-1998
ZINFANDELS May 10, 2000
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS May 3, 2000
1996
California CABERNETS April 12, 2000
1996
FRENCH RED BURGUNDIES March 29, 2000
CALIFORNIA
vs ITALIAN (Tuscan) SANGIOVESE March 22, 2000
WEST COAST
PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2000
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING March 1, 2000
FRENCH
CHAMPAGNES (NV BRUTS) January 5, 2000
1996
BORDEAUX (MEDOC) TASTING November 10, 1999
CABERNET-INFLUENCED VINI FROM
ITALY November 3, 1999
CABERNETS OF THE WORLD
TASTING October 27, 1999

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