
A Blind-Tasting
September 14, 2005
Notes by
Gerald Weisl,
wine merchant
We tasted some terrific Burgundies from the 2002 vintage at our previous
tasting. This evening's line-up featured eight wines of "grand
cru" status and so we had high hopes for this line-up.
I think the wines we tasted are really quite good and probably at a stage where
they are simply a bit tight and youthful, making them hint at greatness, but
falling short of the high hopes I had for them. I suspect this tasting,
conducted in a couple of years, might find the "excitement quotient"
to be at a much higher level than it was tonight.
Last week's winner was outstanding and would have fared well in this
tasting. It might have even won the tasting. But that might be,
perhaps, because the previous line-up was more 'open' and forward in contrast to
these tight and potentially cellar-worthy Burgundies.
Two wines were well ahead of the pack. One wine was well behind the
group.
Here's what we found:
The Wines |
Gerald's Rank |
Ellen's Rank |
Bob's
Rank |
GROUP RANK |
Total Points |
1sts/2nds/
Lasts |
JACQUES CACHEUX & FILS
2002 Echzeaux
$84 |
1 |
2 |
4 |
3 |
59 |
4/2/1 |
Domaine DROUHIN-LAROZE
2002 Chambertin Clos de Bze
$108 |
4 |
4 |
7 |
6 |
76 |
0/2/2 |
Domaine REN ENGEL
2002 Clos-Vougeot
$135 |
5 |
3 |
3 |
1 |
46 |
1/4/0 |
FRDRIC ESMONIN
2002 Clos de Vougeot
$112 |
2 |
7 |
8 |
5 |
69 |
0/2/1 |
Domaine des LAMBRAYS
2002 Clos des Lambrays
$84.99 |
6 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
80 |
1/0/1 |
Domaine MO-CAMUZET
2002 Clos de Vougeot
$240 |
8 |
8 |
5 |
4 |
69 |
2/2/3 |
Domaine VINCENT MONGEARD
2002 Grands Echezeaux
$132 |
3 |
1 |
1 |
2 |
48 |
7/1/2 |
Domaine LOUIS REMY
2002 Clos de la Roche
$107 |
7 |
6 |
2 |
8 |
93 |
0/2/5 |
8th Place: LOUIS REMY 2002 Clos de la Roche
The Remy wine had a couple of tasters who found it to be amongst the
elite, but most had it ranked 5th through 8th place. One critic described
it as "simple and jammy." Another detected "Plummy notes
and cocoa on the palate, with cola, red berries and spice on the
nose." Someone else found "Cloves and spice notes on the
nose...rather simple. It's an elegant wine, with red cherry fruit notes
and some glycerine." Another critic said "It has no nose aside
from the oak and it's too acidic. I found cherry and strawberry fruit, but
it's got a short finish. It's merely a nice 'little' wine."
I found the color to be a light garnet, the least intensity of the set of
wines. The fragrances reminded me of cherry fruit with some stony tones in
there as well. I found the nose to be "good," but not
"grand." The wine is very young on the palate. Aside from
its tannic structure, the flavors are far from blossoming. The wine is, at
this stage, quite tight. Stony notes and the cherry fruit are
present. I suspect this will be a really nice wine in 10 to 15
years. At this stage I gave it a one-and-a-half star rating on my three
star scale, no stars being a standard or ordinary wine.

7th Place: DOMAINE Des LAMBRAYS 2002 Clos des Lambrays
"This wine is very light and seems to have a bit of
sweetness." said the first critic. Another taster found "Bright
candied apple and cherry fruit with a touch of strawberry, but there's not
enough 'stuffing' here." Someone else found "Cherry and
strawberry notes with nice balance." One panel member found
"Much better structure and it's nicely elegant," while another critic
found it to be "clean and showing spicy, cinnamon notes and a sour, hot
finish." Someone else noted "red berry fruit and some clove
spice tones."
The nose of this wine was the finest at the start of the tasting, though I felt
a few others emerged over the course of the evening and, finally, surpassed
this. The fragrances were of sweet cherries, vanillin oak and it later
developed a spice box perfume. This was very much typical of
Burgundy. On the palate the wine showed itself to be young and a bit
tight, though quite expressive. I pegged this as a ten to 15 year wine and
it certainly has the fruit to cellar for that lengthy time frame. I have
it one-and-a-half to two stars on my three star scale. Very fine.

6th Place: DROUHIN-LAROZE 2002 Chambertin Clos de Beze
The leadoff batter said "This is a young, undeveloped Burgundy with
notes of cherry cobbler as it shows a touch of burnt sugar." Another
person found it "Muted nose with some dark cherry fruit notes, a bit of
earth and dark cherry fruit on the palate. Some pencil lead notes,
too. Long and complex." That prompted another taster to remark
"I felt it had a short finish." Someone else found "This
shows a good nose, with spice notes, red cherries and vanilla. It does
have a bitter finish, though." One old timer said "This is
simply too young. It will age very well, however." Another
panel member said they rated it last, "but it has nice strawberry, black
cherry and blackberry fruit."
I found this started nicely, showing nice cherry fruit and light oak. The
word "finesse" comes to mind. It opened most handsomely, finally
having the most attractive fruit and oak. Great nose, but I felt the wine
didn't deliver on the palate quite as much as it promised with its enchanting
fragrances. The wine is good as far as it goes. I suspect it will
continue to blossom with further cellaring. I dropped it down in my
ranking after nearly having it as a first place choice. Still, I gave it
one-and-a-half stars currently.

5th Place: FREDERIC ESMONIN 2002 Clos de Vougeot
Many of the comments centered on the astringency of this wine. One
person said "It's too tannic and sports some ripe cherry and blackberry
fruit. Medium length, but too astringent." Bob Gorman described
this as displaying "Difficult tannins." He also found notes of
"Cola, Angelica and tea." One panel member felt this was
"Watery and light." Another critic found "Barnyardy notes
and the tannins shine through intensely." Someone else detected
"Corked tones on the nose, or at least a funky character with cherry
tones. It's so tight and tannic, though." A final critic
likened the fruit here to "Zinfandel."
I found the nose of this to be a bit quiet at the start, having light berry
fruit and an almost floral aspect to the fragrance. It became sweeter in
perfume as the wine warmed and opened, showing clean cherry notes and a woodsy
character. On the palate, though, this wine really is a real
mouthful! It's big and deep, with grand structure for cellaring. I
found it to be young and tannic with nice berry flavors and a smoky quality on
the finish. Very complex. I gave this one-and-a-half to two
stars+.

4th Place: MEO-CAMUZET 2002 Clos de Vougeot
"Here's a wine with cocoa, red berries, cranberry notes and rich
raspberry flavors. There's a touch of earthiness and a long finish."
said the leadoff critic. Someone else found it "Extremely elegant and
soft and fruity." Naturally, one other taster felt it was lacking,
"having no fruit." Another taster said "It has good up
front fruit and nice round texture on the palate." Someone else felt
it had "lots of stuffing and good cellaring potential."
Another panel member found "Cherry, raspberry and some bacon notes, but a
shorter finish than I'd like." Bob Gorman mentioned a "Brett or
merde character" having been on display here.
I understand the various comments about an "odd" or dirty element in
this wine. I found more cherry fruit and some mushroom and earth
notes. Maybe even a touch of forest floor fragrances. It's got a
Burgundian "funk" but does become sweeter in perfume as it airs.
The flavors are good, showing cherry fruit and some of that mushroom
element. The tannins make this seem a bit thin, though, so I ranked it
down, but would still enjoy drinking the wine. I'm not sure I'd pay such a
price for this, though. One star+.

3rd Place: JACQUES CACHEUX 2002 ECHZEAUX
The leadoff critic found "Nice oak and smoky tones on the
nose. It's medium-full-bodied with raspberry and blueberry fruit and a
long finish." The second batter mentioned "This developed slowly
and expanded quite nicely." A third person said "It had the best
fruit with nice, manageable tannins and a stable structure. There's a note
of tobacco and lots of fruit here." Naturally, a contrarian found it
to be "quite tannic and it lacks fruit." Seconding that motion
was a critic who said it's "tannic and watery." Bob Gorman
described this as "chewy and it wouldn't quit."
I ultimately put this in first place on my score sheet. The wine displays
lovely cherryish fruit with other red fruit tones on the nose. There's
also a hint of candied cherries and a mildly smoky quality. The same
elements, promised on the nose, deliver handsomely on the palate! It's
tannic and a bit tight, but seemed to have all the elements in balance and in
sufficient concentration to warrant a purchase. I think this may arrive at
its peak before some of the other wines and, since it's easier to assess at this
stage, I gave it a two-and-a-half star rating.

2nd Place: VINCENT MONGEARD 2002 Grands Echezeaux
One taster announced "This is way over the top with heavily charred
notes on the nose and palate!" Another person found "Red cherry
fruit and strawberry notes. Vanilla. Big, rich and showing black
cherry fruit and some spice." One critic said "It's got lots of
red cherry fruit and the weight of a Grands Echezeaux." Panning this,
one taster said "There's nothing redeeming about this wine. No charm
to be found here!" Another critic found it "too peppery on the
nose and it tastes almost salty. It's tannic and has a bitter
aftertaste." Someone else thought it was marred by "SO2."
Another taster found "smoked bacon notes," while a final voice
mentioned "Smoky notes and coffee. It's rich and full."
I felt this really captured elements of Burgundy, showing lots of wet leaves,
forest floor and earthy/mushroomy scents. I was surprised to see so many
tasters ranked this so highly, since a similar fragrance was disliked by many at
our previous tasting. The Burgundian earthy notes are in the spotlight on
the palate, as the wine shows some earthy flavors and a hint of mushroom,
candied orange peel and cherries. I gave it a one-and-a-half star rating.

1st Place: RENE ENGEL 2002 Clos Vougeot
Described by one taster as "A big wine," they also found it
"Full, well-balanced and sporting bright bing cherry fruit and some smoked
meat notes. There's a chocolate tone on the finish." More
critical of the wine, one person said "I couldn't find the fruit, but I did
find the wood." Someone else found "Sharp raspberry notes in
this elegant, but simple Burgundy." Another taster "had this
ranked high to start, but I felt it deteriorated over the course of the
tasting."
I enjoyed the bright cherry tones to the fruit aromas. It's really
good Pinot Noir and very fine Burgundy, too. There's a nice vanillin
aspect to the bouquet. The wine struck me as young, tight and having
muscular tannins. I suspect the fruit is sufficient to carry the tannins
for a decade, or more. I gave this a one-and-a-half star rating.
Very fine.



Please note: The wines tasted are not always wines
we have (or have had) in the shop.
Many bottles are merely for our enological exploration.
Price quoted are current at the time of the tasting, but may be different
when you're reading this. |
WE HAVE NOT ORGANIZED A TASTING IN A WHILE...
BUT WE DO POST THE RESULTS OF A PRIVATE TASTING GROUP THAT'S BEEN MEETING FOR
MORE THAN 47 YEARS!
We are working on
organizing some blind-tastings at the shop.
Send us a note to indicate your interest in participating.
These would be on Wednesday evenings and you'd need to bring 8 wine glasses.
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Interesting
Paired CHARDONNAYS
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1999 ZINFANDELS January 16, 2002
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SEASON BACCHANALIA
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1997
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Mostly
1998 NEBBIOLO June 20, 2001
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16, 2001
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SAINT-MILION Tasting April 18, 2001
CARNEROS
CHARDONNAYS March 21, 2001
1984-1985
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1997
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1998 CALIFORNIA
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FROM THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE: CLARETS June 21, 2000
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FROM UNDER THE TUSCAN (and Umbrian) SUN Aprile 19, 2000
1997 BORDEAUX: MEDOC May 17,
2000
WEIMAX TASTING ARCHIVE
NAPA
CABERNETS 2004 Vintage March 19, 2008
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PINOT NOIRS February 6, 2008
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2003
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2003
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2003
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CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS June 21, 2006
GRAND
CRU BURGUNDIES 2003 VINTAGE May 31, 2006
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 CABERNETS & 1990 BORDEAUX May 17, 2006
SOUTH
AMERICAN CLARETS May 10, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE May 3, 2006
2004
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2002
NAPA CABERNETS March 15, 2006
2003
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2006
2003
NORTH COAST ZINFANDELS March 1, 2006
1996
BURGUNDIES vs. 1997 SONOMA PINOT NOIRS November 9, 2005
2002
CABERNETS, ETC. November 2, 2005
2002 NAPA
CABERNETS October 19, 2005
2002
GRAND CRU BURGUNDIES September 14, 2005
2002
RED BURGUNDIES September 7, 2005
2002
MEURSAULTS August 31, 2005
NORTHERN
RHNE SYRAHS August 17, 2005
HIGHLY-REGARDED AUSSIE
SHIRAZ August 10, 2005
AUSSIE SHIRAZ UNDER
$60 August 3, 2005
STUPIDLY-PRICED
SPANISH TEMPRANILLO WINES June 8, 2005
RANDOM
CALIFORNIA SYRAHS June 1, 2005
2002
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS May 18, 2005
2001
NAPA CABERNETS May 11, 2005
OREGON
PINOT NOIRS-2002 & 2003 VINTAGE WINES April 27, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 BURGUNDIES and a COUPLE OF CALIFORNIA PINOTS April 6, 2005
CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS (Mostly 2002s) MARCH 16, 2002
1999
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 9, 2005
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS March 2, 2005
PETITE
SIRAHS February 16, 2005
ROS CHAMPAGNES AND
CALIFORNIA PINK BUBBLIES February 9, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1991 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS January 19, 2005
2001
FAMOUS AND INFAMOUS CABERNETS November 10, 2004
2001
Napa CABERNETS November 3, 2004
WEST
COAST SYRAHS October 20, 2004
1990
RED BORDEAUX & CALIFORNIA CLARETS October 13, 2004
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLOS of 1999 & 2000 September 29, 2004
2002
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET September 8, 2004
2002
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET September 1, 2004
UNDER
THE RADAR PINOT NOIRS August 18, 2004
2001
SAINT-JULIEN & PAUILLACS July 21, 2004
2001
MARGAUX July 14, 2004
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1982 BORDEAUX July 7, 2004
2001 POMEROLS
June 30, 2004
2001
SAINT MILIONS June 16, 2004
2000
CLOS de VOUGEOT (and a ringer) MAY 12, 2004
2001
OREGON PINOT NOIRS May 5, 2004
2001
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS April 21, 2004
1994
WEST COAST CABERNETS APRIL 14, 2004
1999-2000 BORDEAUX COMPARISON
March 10, 2004
1999
BAROLO March 3, 2004
2000
Deluxe Napa CABERNETS February 18, 2004
2000
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS $50 & Under February 11, 2004
1998 BRUNELLO
DI MONTALCINO February 4, 2004
TURLEY
ZINFANDELS 1995 & 1999 Vintages January 7, 2004
2000
PRESTIGIOUS WEST COAST CABERNETS November 12, 2003
1999
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 5, 2003
SANTA
LUCIA HIGHLANDS PINOT NOIRS October 29, 2003
MOSTLY
2001 VINTAGE GIGONDAS October 22, 2003
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLO WINES October 9, 2003
SPARKLING
WINES-METHODE CHAMPENOISE October 1, 2003
1996
(Mostly) AUSTRALIAN (Mostly) SHIRAZ September 24, 2003
2000
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES September 10, 2003
PRIORATO
WINES FROM SPAIN September 3, 2003
WEST
COAST SANGIOVESES August 27, 2003
2000
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET (Mostly Premier Cru Wines) August 13, 2003
2000
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY August 6, 2003
2000
NAPA CABERNETS July 30, 2003
1999
TUSCAN SANGIOVESE-BASED WINES July 23, 2003
2000
VINTAGE MERLOTS July 9, 2003
SYRAHS
FROM HITHER & YON July 2, 2003
2001 CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS June 25, 2003
NEW
PINOT NOIRS June 4, 2003
1999
NAPA CABERNETS May 28, 2003
1994
PINOT NOIRS May 14, 2003
CHILEAN
CLARETS May 7, 2003
PETITE
SIRAHS of Current Release.
April 30, 2003
1999
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHETS Premier Cru Selections April 9, 2003
1999
GRAND CRU'S of GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN April 2, 2003
1999-2000 SOUTHERN FRENCH REDS (RHONE
WANNABE'S) MARCH 26, 2003
1995-1996
VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE TASTING MARCH 12, 2003
2000
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TASTING MARCH 5, 2003
2000
NAPA VALLEY CABERNET TASTING FEBRUARY 26th, 2003
1990
FRENCH RED BURGUNDY TASTING February 12, 2003
1999
& 2000 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS November 13, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS November 6, 2002
1997
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO OCTOBER 30, 2002
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING OCTOBER 23, 2002
1999
CHATEAUNEUF-du-PAPE TASTING October 9, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS September 25, 2002
1999
WASHINGTON STATE CABERNETS September 11, 2002
1991
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 4, 2002
1999
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1er Cru Tasting August 28, 2002
AUSTRALIAN
CABERNETS (Mostly 1999s) August 14, 2002
1999
FRENCH BURGUNDY July 24, 2002
1999
GRAVES BLANC July 10, 2002
2000
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY July 3, 2002
1999/2000
CONDRIEU TASTING June 26, 2002
1999
PAUILLAC & SAINT JULIEN TASTING June 12, 2002
1999
MARGAUX TASTING June 5, 2002
1985
CABERNETS & MEDOC TASTING May 29, 2002
1998
California CABERNETS May 22, 2002
South
American MALBEC May 8, 2002
1999
West Coast MERLOTS May 1, 2002
Central
Coast (California) PINOT NOIRS April 24, 2002
2001
Southern Hemisphere SAUVIGNON BLANCS April 10, 2002
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINFANDELS April 3, 2002
1999
FRENCH RHÔNE SYRAHS February 13, 2002
(Mostly) 1999 CALIFORNIA SYRAHS January 30,
2002
MORE
1997 BAROLO January 23, 2002
1997
Late-Released CABERNETS January 9, 2002
1997
BAROLO October 24, 2001
1985-1990
RED BURGUNDIES October 10, 2001
1998
Grand Crus of Gevrey Chambertin October 3, 2001
PRIORAT
WINES September 26, 2001
1998
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE September 12, 2001
1999
"High Roller" CHARDONNAYS September 5, 2001
1998
BORDEAUX August 22, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS August 8, 2001
1997
VOSNE-ROMANÉE
Tasting August 1, 2001
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINS July 25, 2001
1998 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS
July 11, 2001
OLD
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS June 6, 2001
1997 ECHEZEAUX May 30, 2001
1999 NORTH
COAST ZINFANDELS May 23, 2001
1999
West Coast Merlots May 9, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS May 2, 2001
1997
BARBARESCO April 25, 2001
Mostly RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIRS
April 11, 2001
1997
NAPA CABERNETS April 4, 2001
1995
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 28, 2001
1997 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY &
MOREY SAINT DENIS
with one 1996...March 14, 2001
1997
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN March 7, 2001
1996
BAROLO February 28, 2001
1978-1979
California Cabernets January 10, 2001
1997
California Cabernets November 8, 2000
1997
TUSCAN SANGIOVESES November 1, 2000
1997-1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
& CALIFORNIA WANNABEEs October 25, 2000
Mostly 1998 PINOT NOIRS
October 11, 2000
1996
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 4, 2000
MATURE
CLARETS September 27, 2000
1997
RED BORDEAUX September 13, 2000
1997 NAPA CABERNETS
September 6, 2000
1998
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS August 30, 2000
1997 CLOS DE VOUGEOTS August 23,
2000
PETITE
SIRAH & SYRAH (West Coast) August 9, 2000
FANCY
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS August 2, 2000
1996
FAMOUS CALIFORNIA CABERNETS June 14, 2000
WEST
COAST SYRAHS June 7, 2000
1997 CABERNETS May 31,
2000
VIOGNIERS
of RECENT VINTAGE May 24, 2000
1997-1998
ZINFANDELS May 10, 2000
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS May 3, 2000
1996
California CABERNETS April 12, 2000
1996
FRENCH RED BURGUNDIES March 29, 2000
CALIFORNIA
vs ITALIAN (Tuscan) SANGIOVESE March 22, 2000
WEST COAST
PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2000
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING March 1, 2000
FRENCH
CHAMPAGNES (NV BRUTS) January 5, 2000
1996
BORDEAUX (MEDOC) TASTING November 10, 1999
CABERNET-INFLUENCED VINI FROM
ITALY November 3, 1999
CABERNETS OF THE WORLD
TASTING October 27, 1999

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