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DRY WHITE BORDEAUX
Modernization of many cellars has brought increased interest to white wines
from what is regarded by many wine connoisseurs as the "center of the wine
universe." When most wine drinkers think of Bordeaux, they think of red
wine.
There have been excellent dry white wines from Bordeaux, but a bit of technology has
helped advance the cause and today there are many good values coming from even the
"petite châteaux." Given that there are thousands of wineries here,
an increase in the quality of white wine means consumers have an alternative to Sauvignon
Blanc and Semillon wines from other parts of the wine world.
Each estate has its own "recipe" for making white wine. Some
are predominantly Semillon, while others display intense Sauvignon Blanc characteristics.
There is a minor blending variety here called "Muscadelle de Bordelais"
and a few other white grapes dot the countryside, including "Ondenc,"
"Mauzac" (the white grape responsible for the sparkling wines of Limoux),
"Sauvignon Gris" and "Ugni Blanc" (known as Trebbiano in Italy and
used for distillation in Cognac, just north of Bordeaux).
Aside from the varietal "blend," another complicating factor is the
use of wood. Many small wines of Entre-Deux-Mers are vinified exclusively in
stainless steel. At the other extreme, some estates ferment their wine exclusively
in 60-gallon oak barrels. Then there's the issue of a secondary, malolactic
fermentation. Some wineries do. Some don't.
We have but a limited number of wines from this region. But we've got a wide range
of styles and prices for you.
Some Recommended Wines:
- CHÂTEAU DE CUGAT
 This small estate
is located in the Entre-Deux-Mers appellation and proprietor Benoit Meyer
offers a nice range of wines.
I've visited the place twice and each time the line-up of wines has been
impressive. More so, when you see the wines being offered at prices
which are remarkably reasonably!
Meyer's grandmother bought the property in the 1920s and in the 1990s Benoit
decided to start producing wine on a commercial basis.
We typically have red wines from the Château de Cugat, but his simple
Entre-Deux-Mers is very fine. The wine is something like 35% Sauvignon
Gris, 35% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon. The citrusy, herby notes
of the Sauvignons dominate the nose and the Sémillon contributes a bit of
texture on the palate. It's fresh, dry and bright...perfect for simple
seafood or aperitif service. The wine also will beautifully 'set up' a
red wine, so serving this for cocktails or with a simple salad or seafood
starter is ideal.
Currently in stock: 2005 CHÂTEAU de CUGAT "Entre Deux
Mers" $9.99 Sold Out Presently
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- CHATEAU TOUR de MIRAMBEAU
 Our
"scout" in the Southwestern part of France comes up with some
wines which have great appeal to those of us who enjoy drinking well and
paying little. Mirambeau is a property that's been in the Despagne
family for more than 250 years. The current proprietor graduated from
the local wine school in Bordeaux and then set out for South America and
South Africa to gain perspective on winemaking. -
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We have a dynamite bottling that's made of Sauvignon Blanc (instead of the
normal Sauvignon/Sémillon blend) and vinified in stainless steel. The
wine remains on the spent yeast until bottling. It's thoroughly
delicious, showing notes of grapefruit, ripe pear and a touch of
peach. It's dry, too, by the way. Great with seafood or as a
cocktail white.
Despagne also makes a "reserve" bottling, called "Cuvée
Passion." Thibault Despagne says the wine is 70% Sauvignon
and 30% Sémillon. "We first made this in 1987. The Sémillon
comes from a very old block of vines, planted in 1936. The low yields
contribute ripe and rich elements to the wine. We barrel-fermented
half of the wine as well like the new oak, but don't want to lose the
fruit." The wine is magnificent and outshines many California
Sauvignon wines. It's pungently Sauvignon with that wonderfully
herbal character balancing the oak. Very fine! Don't miss the
2004...it's amazingly fine and reasonably-priced.
- Currently in stock: 2006 Mirambeau "Sauvignon" $10.99
2004 Mirambeau "Cuvée Passion" $17.99
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CHÂTEAU SAINTE-MARIE
 This
modest-sized estate is on many "experts" list of top sources for
good Entre-Deux-Mers. The property is owned by Gilles Dupuch and his son
Stéphane is now in charge of the place.
 The
vineyards are of varying ages, the oldest vines on this 45 hectare estate
being about 100 years old. Cattle ranching had been the main focus of
many of the estates in this neighborhood, but only the recent decades have
vines supplanted cattle.
Stéphane Dupuch's uncle bought the estate in 1956 and his father left a
lucrative insurance business to get dirt under his fingernails. For
"dad," the business was more of a hobby. For Stéphane, it's
a way of life. Though most Americans know the white wines of
Entre-Deux-Mers, estates such as this actually have more land devoted to red
varieties. Dupuch recently cleared some forest land and planted
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. This site will be a
"Premières Côtes de Bordeaux."
Saint-Marie's excellent Entre-Deux-Mers is cropped to a rather modest level,
producing about 42 hectoliters per hectare. The wine is Sauvignon
Blanc, predominantly, with a fair bit of Sémillon and a bit of
Muscadelle. The wine even gets a bit of skin contact, though Stéphane
has reduced that from 24 hours to about 15, or so. The 2006 is
delicious and a nice alternative to some Loire Valley Sauvignons. It's
dry, mildly citrusy and thoroughly delicious.
 A special bottling, called "MADLYS" is slated
for arrival in the not-too-distant future. This is 80% Sauvignon and
20% Sémillon. It's matured in one-third new oak, one third "one
wine old" and one-third "two wines old" oak. The wood
gives a lovely touch of vanillin and toast. MADLYS refers to the family members, led by MADdy, Laurence,
Yannick and Stéphane.
MORE PHOTOS OF
OUR FRIENDS, THE DUPUCH FAMILY.-
- Available by special order: 2006 Château Sainte-Marie
Entre-Deux-Mers $13.99
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CHÂTEAU DE L'HOSPITAL
 You'll
arrive at this estate in the Graves district after about a 20 minute car
ride from Bordeaux. Hopefully you'll be in a regular car and not an
ambulance as you drive to L'Hospital.
The 17 hectare estate is owned by the Lafragette family and it's long been a
rather well-regarded property. Some three hectares are devoted to
white grapes and the 2002 vintage is really a marvelous wine with a lot of
soul.
There's a fair bit of gravel to the soil and this facilitates drainage,
forcing the roots of the vines to plunge deep into the earth. The wine
is based on Sémillon, the 2002 vintage being about 65% Sémillon and 35%
Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit is hand-harvested and then inspected by a
crew at the sorting table. Anything not perfect is discarded, as it
should be at any winery.
The juice is fermented in small oak barrels and then the lees (sediment) is
stirred twice a week for the first two months. After that, the
lees-stirring takes place once every eleven days until the wine is bottled
in the spring.
The 2002 vintage is quite different from the 2001. There's
a stylish, toasty oak element here, but if you've ever been curious about
the "waxy" character of Sémillon, try a bottle of this! The
character is reminiscent of beeswax, for example, with a smoky quality from
the oak and battonage (lees stirring). It's fairly full in the mouth
and a perfect partner for sole cooked in brown butter or some grilled prawns
marinated in olive oil and Pernod.. -
- Currently in stock: 2002 CHÂTEAU de L'HOSPITAL GRAVES BLANC
$16.99
(last bottles)
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CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT-LAFITTE
 The
Cathiard family has been running this estate since 1990 when Daniel
Cathiard, a former member of the French ski team, sold his business
interests in a grocery company and bought Smith Haut-Lafitte.
The property had been well-regarded, but was an under-achiever in those
days. Not anymore!
The white wine of this property is highly regarded by those who appreciate Sauvignon Blanc. In fact, the white wine vineyards are about 90%
Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris and the rest Sémillon.
The 2004 is striking and intense. We're big fans. Too
bad it costs so much or we'd drink with regularly. But if you need a
spiffy bottle for a fancy menu, especially seafood, do consider this.
It's superb.
Currently in stock:
2004 Château Smith Haut-Lafitte (List $75) $64.99
CHÂTEAU FIEUZAL
 The Fieuzal
estate has a good reputation and its white wine, I've found, generally to be
superior to its red. They have about 39 hectares of red grapes and
only 9 of white.
The property is located in the Pessac-Léognan region. It came under
new ownership in 2001, a fellow who was chairman of Allied Irish Banks,
Monsieur Lochlann Quinn, is the proprietor these days.
They have equal proportions of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, but I often
find the Sauvignon dominates the fragrance of the wine. It's vinified
in oak, about half the barrels being brand new.
The wine is left on the spent yeast following the fermentation and
stirred. This "battonage" contributes a toasty quality to
the wine...it's almost smoky. We have the 2001 vintage in stock
which is a marvelous wine if you like or appreciate these features (not
everyone does).
We opened a bottle in mid-2007 and the wine was spectacular. Definite
Sauvignon...dry. Medium-full bodied.
- Currently in stock: 2001 CHÂTEAU de FIEUZAL (list $50) SALE
$44.99
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CHÂTEAU CARBONNIEUX This is a
large vineyard and its white wine is one of the easier-to-find whites from
the Graves region.
Partly due to its easy availability, the wine has been a bit of an
ambassador for the Pessac-Léognan region. Through the 1990s I'd found
the wine to be a bit of an under achiever, frankly.
Today I find the wine to be good, though I usually prefer the Fieuzal or
Smith Haut Lafitte whites. Of course, those tend to be more expensive
than Carbonnieux...
I've found, though, over the past decade, the wine seems to be getting
better. Perhaps it's due to vine age, perhaps it's due to the
increased experience of the winemaker and château owner. The Perrin
family (not the famous Beaucastel Perrins, by the way) owns this estate and
they've operated it since 1956.
I understand they have been doing a pre-fermentation period of skin
contact for the white wine of Carbonnieux. It used to never see any
wood and its rather intense, weedy Sauvignon aromas were a bit crude without
some time in oak. Now the wine spends a bit of time in wood and they
even leave it on the spent yeast and stir this sediment to create a smoky,
toasty element in the wine. The wine is less 'green' and less herbal
than it was, say, a decade ago. Now they capture more of a citrus and
mildly grassy tone with a hint of melon-like fruit. The wood is well
in the background here.
The 2004 is very nice and a wonderful accompaniment to simple seafood
dishes.-
- Currently in stock: 2004 CHÂTEAU CARBONNIEUX Pessac-Léognan
White (List $43) SALE $37.99
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