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CABERNETS OF THE WORLD
16 tasters participated. The past couple of decades have seen a rush in the wine world to jump on the Cabernet Bandwagon. It is for a good reason. There has developed a worldwide connoisseurship of Cabernet based wines. Unlike the somewhat limited geographical niche for the finicky Pinot Noir for example, Cabernet seems able to find a happy home in a considerable diversity of “terroirs”. The vines are considerably more handy than Pinot. Cabernet’s extension into somewhat warmer climes is due, perhaps, to its habit of final ripening in cooler October (April, in the Southern Hemisphere), a fact that allows it to retain its balance. We decided to assemble a group of Cabernets from various points throughout the globe and let them duke it out with each other. Our entry from Spain has had a considerable history and a solid reputation. The current entry, though, left quite a bit to be desired according to our tasters. It was Torres 1994 Gran Cornas Black Label, which several tasters found “simple, poorly concentrated, overly extracted and shrill.” Less harsh critics found “jam, spice, and smoke” but marked it down for “uncentered fruit and a flat finish”. An admirer found “voluptuous density”! An entry from Chile, a collaborative effort of Robert Mondavi and Errazuriz which they call “Sea” (1996), experienced some difficulty finding admirers for its funky vegetative tone (“uncooked green beans”) and “chocolaty, stewed” Cabernet fruit. Another found a “queer smorgasbord of flavors including raspberry gum-drops, pickles, olives and chocolate”. Another taster found “honeysuckle” and an enthusiastic supporter found “spot on Cassis!” A surprisingly affordable Cabernet from Portugal, the 1995 Casa Cadaval, was admittedly a bit simple but had nice cedary, woodsy character. Another found a bit of “tar” reminiscent of some older Napa Cabs. Tannins were “easy” on one palate and “harsh” on another. It was surprising to find it ranked slightly below the most expensive Cabernet of the tasting: Antinori’s famed “Solaia” (@ well over $100) from Tuscany, Italy. This 1996 version was described as dusty, spicy with “dark-toned fruit” and difficult tannins. One stanch defender found a “classy, classic mouthful of Cabernet”. One of the problems for such a dry, lean and tightly crafted wine is that it tends to appear overly austere to many tasters when it is up against far more fleshy, full-bodied wines. This is the so-called “Parker Syndrome”. Our entry from Washington State, the 1996 “Col Solare” from Chateau Ste. Michelle was found to have “violets, Cassis and cedar on the nose while another found it “plum-like”. It was generally thought to have nice easy tannins and long, mouthfilling Cabernet fruit. A second entry from Chile, the 1997 Montes Alpha Cabernet called simply “M” charmed the tasters with its complex, toasty, lightly oaked nose and eminently flavorful Cabernet fruit. One found an unusual “flowery” note while another found hints of “milk chocolate”, a wine, it was agreed, for near-term consumption. Penfolds renowned Bin #707 (1996) earned second place with its full, rich Cabernet and hints of “cherries, sage, spice…nicely structured”. One found hints of the French grape spirit called “marc” while another found it “too oak dominant but I’ll drink it!” The top wine of the evening was praised for its “rich, lush texture”, its hints of “cherries, peppermint, cream” and “long lingering finish”. It was the 1996 Georges de la Tour Private Reserve Cabernet of Beaulieu, Napa. Robert Gorman Wine Consultant @ Weimax Wines & Spirits
GERALD'S NOTES: WEIMAX TASTING ARCHIVE 1998 CHTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE September 12, 2001 1999 "High Roller" CHARDONNAYS September 5, 2001 1997 VOSNE-ROMANE Tasting August 1, 2001 1999
CALIFORNIA ZINS July 25, 2001 OLD
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS June 6, 2001 1999 West Coast Merlots May 9, 2001 1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS May 2, 2001 Mostly RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIRS April 11, 2001
1997 NAPA CABERNETS
April 4, 2001 1997 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY &
MOREY SAINT DENIS 1997 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN March 7, 2001 1978-1979 California Cabernets January 10, 2001 1997 California Cabernets November 8, 2000 1997 TUSCAN SANGIOVESES November 1, 2000 1997-1998 Chteauneuf-du-Papes & CALIFORNIA WANNABEEs October 25, 2000 Mostly 1998 PINOT NOIRS October 11, 2000 1996 CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 4, 2000 MATURE CLARETS September 27, 2000 1997 RED BORDEAUX September 13, 2000 1997 NAPA CABERNETS September 6, 2000 1998 CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS
August 30, 2000 SYRAH & PETITE SIRAH August 9, 2000 FANCY CALIFORNIA MERLOTS August 2, 2000 1996 FAMOUS CALIFORNIA CABERNETS June 14, 2000 WEST COAST SYRAHS June 7, 2000 VIOGNIERS of RECENT VINTAGE May 24, 2000 1997-1998 ZINFANDELS May 10, 2000 SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE CLARETS May 3, 2000 1996 California CABERNETS April 12, 2000 1996 FRENCH RED BURGUNDIES March 29, 2000 CALIFORNIA vs ITALIAN (Tuscan) SANGIOVESE March 22, 2000 WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2000 AUSSIE SHIRAZ TASTING March 1, 2000 FRENCH CHAMPAGNES (NV BRUTS) January 5, 2000 1996 BORDEAUX (MEDOC) TASTING November 10, 1999 THE VINO-FINO TASTERS (A private tasting group) |
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