|
VINO FINO TASTERS Washington State Cabernet Tasting August 2016
Notes by
Gerald Weisl,
wine merchant
Having just visited Washington State wineries a month before this tasting date,
I was delighted that August's tasting host was interested in exploring some
Cabernets.
We selected a set of wines which were rather affordably-priced, rather than
surveying a bunch of high-end bottlings.
A few of the wines were site-specific selections, while others were somewhat
generic "Columbia Valley" bottlings. One was thoroughly generic,
labeled simply as "Washington State."
I thought one bottle suffered from cork taint and I disqualified it. My
colleague from Weimax also questioned this sample and he ranked it last as
well. But one taster ranked it in second place and six others placed it
from third to seventh!
One wine was a bit ahead of the group, garnering 5 of nine first place votes,
with one other taster ranking it second.
Two other wines were fairly close behind, with fourth and fifth off the pace and
sixth, seventh and eighth well behind.
All the wines were well-vinified. But only the first place wine had some
depth and complexity. The others were decent "red wines," but
not really great examples of the noble Cabernet Sauvignon grape.
To their credit, though, these did not seem to be the bombastic style of
Cabernet one encounters so often these days with California wines.
Here's what we found:
| The Wines |
Gerald's Ranking |
GROUP RANKING |
Total Points |
1sts/2nds/
Lasts |
AMAVI
CELLARS
2013
Walla Walla
Cabernet Sauvignon
$30 |
8
corked |
6 |
50 |
0/1/2 |
CANOE
RIDGE
2014
Horse Heaven Hills
Cabernet Sauvignon
"The Expedition"
$16 |
5 |
4 |
39 |
0/1/0 |
CHATEAU
SMITH
2013
Washington State
Cabernet Sauvignon
$20 |
6 |
8 |
56 |
0/0/2 |
GOOSE
RIDGE
2014
Columbia Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon
G-3
$15 |
2 |
5 |
44 |
0/3/2 |
L'ECOLE
41
2013
Columbia Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon
$33 |
3 |
2 |
28 |
2/1/0 |
MERCER
2013
Horse Heaven Hills
Cabernet Sauvignon
$22 |
1 |
1 |
23 |
5/1/0 |
MILBRANDT
VINEYARDS
2012
Wahluke Slope
Cabernet Sauvignon
The Estates
$24 |
4 |
3 |
29 |
2/1/1 |
SEVEN
HILLS
2013
Columbia Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon
$26 |
7 |
7 |
55 |
0/1/2 |
8th Place: CHATEAU SMITH 2013 Washington State
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Clear in appearance and light ruby to light garnet in color, this wine
displayed fragrances more reminiscent of a fruity Gamay wine than of a
full-throttle Cabernet Sauvignon. There were aromas of strawberry-like
fruit instead of darker notes of Cabernet.
It's light bodied to medium-light bodied, yet mildly tannic...standard quality
red wine, but not a $20 bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon.
The winery web site describes the wine thusly:
Aromatic,
classic, refined Cabernet Sauvignon. Graphite, cassis and pencil shavings at its
core that gives way to a long satisfying finish. Chateau Smith indeed!
Well, that's not the wine we tasted.
Curiously one web page for this winery claims this wine received a 90 Point
score from The Wine Advocate. Another page says it got an 87 Point score
from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, while a "trade
"tech sheet" page quotes the Wine Advocate's description of
the wine and claims it received a score of 89 points!
Our bottle is labeled as solely "Washington State," while the tech
sheet has a reproduction of the label but it's noted as "Columbia Valley
2013 Washington State." Is it possible this is a different bottling
than they sent out to wine critics?
I noted it with a - (minus sign) on my score sheet, using a three star
scale. No stars indicates a standard quality bottle of wine, but in this
instance, I'd peg it as not even of standard quality as a Cabernet.
Sorry. Swing and a miss here.
7th Place: SEVEN HILLS 2013 Columbia Valley CABERNET SAUVIGNON
With medium ruby color and a brilliantly clear appearance, this wine
offered some stalky, herbal fragrances suggesting there was some fruit which was
a bit unripe and/or over-cropped. It's dry and sports good acidity, with
light to medium body. There's a fair bit of tannin here and it's a bit
aggressive at this stage.
Here's the winery tech sheet description of this wine:
Aroma: Boysenberry, pomegranate, toasted hazelnut, pie crust, cinnamon,
lilac Taste: Round and opulent red cherry, raspberry, vanilla cream,
sarsaparilla, coffee, firm earthy tannin
.
Sounds charming, but I didn't find those elements in the bottle we tasted.
Perhaps additional bottle aging will bring it into balance, but it's an odd duck
presently. My impression of the wine is far different from the winery tasting
notes. I gave it no stars on my three star scale.
6th Place: AMAVI 2013 Walla Walla CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Clear in appearance and medium ruby in color, I detected a corked
quality on the nose of this wine and disqualified it from the tasting. It
showed musty elements right from the start. The dank cellar character
seemed to dissipate a bit over the course of the tasting, but on the palate,
that wet newspaper quality was present. It subdued the fruit and made this
simply a tannic, shrill red wine.
Must re-taste to evaluate this wine.
5th Place: GOOSE RIDGE 2014 Columbia Valley "G-3" CABERNET
SAUVIGNON
Clear in appearance and medium ruby on color, this wine displayed some
dark fruit fragrances on the nose and a mildly woodsy tone, too. With a
touch of cedar, the nose here was attractive. It's dry on the palate and
shows a decent level of acidity. Medium+ in body. There's a berryish
flavor and good red fruit notes here on the palate. The fruit is a tad
light or shallow but seeing its price tag after we unveiled the wine, perhaps
there is some additional merit here. It's not a wine for cellaring, but
it's pleasant, though not especially complex. I thought the aroma and
bouquet were a bit more enticing than the flavor, but gave it a one star rating
on my three star scale.
4th Place: CANOE RIDGE 2014 Horse Heaven Hills CABERNET SAUVIGNON
"The Expedition"
Clear in appearance and sporting a medium ruby color, this wine featured
fragrances of red fruits. It actually seemed to be more reminiscent of a
Merlot than Cabernet. It's dry and moderately acidic, with medium
body. The tannins, though, suggest it's a Cabernet as it was a bit grippy
and coarse on the palate. I didn't think it had enough fruit to match all
that tannin, but maybe it will turn into a good wine. For now I gave it
merely a half star rating.
3rd Place: MILBRANDT 2012 Wahluke Slope CABERNET SAUVIGNON "The
Estates"
Clear in appearance with medium ruby color, this wine started out in
promising fashion. It showed some dark fruit fragrances and a nice touch
of wood, with a cedar-like note. It's dry and moderately acidic with
medium+ body. Where it disappoints is on the palate as the wine struck me
as merely a smallish "red table wine" and not as a noble bottle of
Cabernet Sauvignon. Light fruit on the palate, it's a perfectly pleasant
wine, but seemed to lack varietal character in terms of flavor. I gave it
a half star rating.
2nd Place: L'ECOLE 41 2013 Columbia
Valley CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Medium ruby in color and clear in appearance, the nose of this wine was
quite attractive, showing some mildly oaked dark fruit fragrances. Very
promising. Dry and moderately acidic, it's medium+ bodied. It leans
nicely towards Cabernet but the flavors are not quite as intense as the
fragrances suggest. It's a good bottle of wine, though, and certainly
approachable now. It's balanced for immediate drinking and can probably be
cellared several years. One star +.
1st PLACE: MERCER ESTATES 2013 Horse Heaven Hills CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Medium+ ruby in color and clear in appearance, this wine was at the head
of the class in this line-up. The fruit notes show dark plum aromas with a
touch of blackberry. There's a bit of wood here, too, giving the wine some
depth and charm. It's dry and moderately acidic. Medium+ to full
bodied, this captures the varietal character of Cabernet Sauvignon. The
wood on the palate adds depth to the wine and there's a modest level of tannin,
suggesting three to six years of aging potential. Good wine! One and
a half to two stars. It was head and shoulders above the rest.
|
Please note: The wines tasted are not always wines
we have (or have had) in the shop.
Many bottles are merely for our enological exploration.
Price quoted are current at the time of the tasting, but may be different
when you're reading this. |
WE HAVE NOT ORGANIZED A TASTING IN A WHILE...
BUT WE DO POST THE RESULTS OF A PRIVATE TASTING GROUP THAT'S BEEN MEETING FOR
MORE THAN 47 YEARS!
We are working on
organizing some blind-tastings at the shop.
Send us a note to indicate your interest in participating.
These would be on Wednesday evenings and you'd need to bring 8 wine glasses.
THE
VINO-FINO TASTERS
(A private tasting group that's
been meeting for more than 44 years!)
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GIGONDAS
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AUSLESEN RIESLINGS November 2016
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MOSTLY WEST COAST September 2016
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STATE CABERNETS August 2016
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DI SARDEGNA July 2016
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CATALONIA:
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A
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A
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WINES FROM ALL OVER June 2007
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2006
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PETITE SIRAHS June 2006
2004
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AGLIANICO
: BASILICATA & CAMPANIA'S MAJOR RED WINE April 2006
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D'AVOLA - A TASTE OF SICILIA March 2006
UNDER THE
VINO FINO RADAR ZINFANDELS January 2006
HOLIDAY WINE
TASTING & DINNER December 2005
BUBBLIES FROM AROUND
THE WORLD November 2005
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COAST PINOT NOIRS October 2005
STATE
OF CONFUSION CABERNETS September 2005
TIM
ZAINER'S SIDEWAYS LOOK AT MERLOTS August 2005
LOIRE VALLEY CABERNET
FRANCS June 2005
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SYRAHS March 2005
2002
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VINO
FINO HOLIDAY WINE MARATHON December 2004
CHARDONNAYS
OF MODEST PRICE November 2004
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TEMPRANILLO October 2004
2002
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SHIRAZ-CABERNET BLENDS August 2004
GEWÜRZTRAMINERS
FROM ALSACE July 2004
2001
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AGLIANICO
WINES FROM CAMPANIA & BASILICATA May 2004
MONTEPULCIANO
WINES FROM THE ABRUZZO & MARCHE REGIONS April 2004
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ZINFANDELS February 2004
1997
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO January 2004
VINO
FINO HOLIDAY BACCHANALIA 2003
2001
CÔTES du RHÔNES September 17, 2003
2000
OREGON PINOT NOIRS August 20, 2003
WEST
COAST SYRAHS July 16, 2003
2000
Bordeaux June 18, 2003
2000
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS May 21, 2003
OFF
THE BEATEN PATH SYRAHS APRIL 16, 2003
2002 NEW ZEALAND
SAUVIGNON BLANCS March 19, 2003
1999
California CABERNETS February 19, 2003
VINO
FINO HOLIDAY BACCHANALIA December 4, 2002
CALIFORNIA
PINOT NOIRS 1999-2000 November 20, 2002
AUSTRIAN
WHITE WINES October 16, 2002
AUSTRALIAN
SHIRAZ August 21, 2002
CHAMPAGNES
& SPARKLERS July 17, 2002
Interesting
Paired CHARDONNAYS
May 15, 2002
2001
Southern Hemisphere SAUVIGNON BLANCS Feb. 20, 2002
1999 ZINFANDELS January 16, 2002
HOLIDAY
SEASON BACCHANALIA
December 5, 2001
1999-2000
New PINOT NOIRS November 14, 2001
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINFANDELS October 17, 2001
1998
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 19, 2001
1999
LANGUEDOC REDS August 15, 2001
1997
SAUTERNES July 18, 2001
Mostly
1998 NEBBIOLO June 20, 2001
1999 PINOT NOIRS May
16, 2001
1996
SAINT-MILION Tasting April 18, 2001
CARNEROS
CHARDONNAYS March 21, 2001
1984-1985
NAPA CABERNETS/John Vignau Memorial Tasting October 20, 2000
1997
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 20, 2000
1998 CALIFORNIA
CHARDONNAYS August 16, 2000
WINES
FROM THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE: CLARETS June 21, 2000
WINES
FROM UNDER THE TUSCAN (and Umbrian) SUN Aprile 19, 2000
1997 BORDEAUX: MEDOC May 17,
2000
WEIMAX TASTING ARCHIVE
NAPA
CABERNETS 2004 Vintage March 19, 2008
CALIFORNIA
PINOT NOIRS-2005s March 13, 2008
OREGON
PINOT NOIRS February 6, 2008
MOSTLY
2004 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS April 25, 2007
WASHINGTON
STATE CLARETS April, 11, 2007
2004
NORTHERN RHONE SYRAHS April 4, 2007
2001
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO March 28, 2007
2001
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 8, 2006
2003
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 18, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPES-Flight #2 October 4, 2006
OLDER
TUSCAN REDS--MOSTLY SANGIOVESES September 20, 2006
2003
NAPA CABERNETS July 19, 2006
2003
SAINT EMILIONS July 12, 2006
CALIFORNIA
SYRAHS 2003-2004 July 5, 2006
2004
CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS June 21, 2006
GRAND
CRU BURGUNDIES 2003 VINTAGE May 31, 2006
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 CABERNETS & 1990 BORDEAUX May 17, 2006
SOUTH
AMERICAN CLARETS May 10, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE May 3, 2006
2004
GOLDEN STATE PINOT NOIRS April 19, 2006
2002
NAPA CABERNETS March 15, 2006
2003
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2006
2003
NORTH COAST ZINFANDELS March 1, 2006
1996
BURGUNDIES vs. 1997 SONOMA PINOT NOIRS November 9, 2005
2002
CABERNETS, ETC. November 2, 2005
2002 NAPA
CABERNETS October 19, 2005
2002
GRAND CRU BURGUNDIES September 14, 2005
2002
RED BURGUNDIES September 7, 2005
2002
MEURSAULTS August 31, 2005
NORTHERN
RHNE SYRAHS August 17, 2005
HIGHLY-REGARDED AUSSIE
SHIRAZ August 10, 2005
AUSSIE SHIRAZ UNDER
$60 August 3, 2005
STUPIDLY-PRICED
SPANISH TEMPRANILLO WINES June 8, 2005
RANDOM
CALIFORNIA SYRAHS June 1, 2005
2002
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS May 18, 2005
2001
NAPA CABERNETS May 11, 2005
OREGON
PINOT NOIRS-2002 & 2003 VINTAGE WINES April 27, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 BURGUNDIES and a COUPLE OF CALIFORNIA PINOTS April 6, 2005
CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS (Mostly 2002s) MARCH 16, 2002
1999
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 9, 2005
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS March 2, 2005
PETITE
SIRAHS February 16, 2005
ROS CHAMPAGNES AND
CALIFORNIA PINK BUBBLIES February 9, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1991 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS January 19, 2005
2001
FAMOUS AND INFAMOUS CABERNETS November 10, 2004
2001
Napa CABERNETS November 3, 2004
WEST
COAST SYRAHS October 20, 2004
1990
RED BORDEAUX & CALIFORNIA CLARETS October 13, 2004
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLOS of 1999 & 2000 September 29, 2004
2002
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET September 8, 2004
2002
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET September 1, 2004
UNDER
THE RADAR PINOT NOIRS August 18, 2004
2001
SAINT-JULIEN & PAUILLACS July 21, 2004
2001
MARGAUX July 14, 2004
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1982 BORDEAUX July 7, 2004
2001 POMEROLS
June 30, 2004
2001
SAINT MILIONS June 16, 2004
2000
CLOS de VOUGEOT (and a ringer) MAY 12, 2004
2001
OREGON PINOT NOIRS May 5, 2004
2001
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS April 21, 2004
1994
WEST COAST CABERNETS APRIL 14, 2004
1999-2000 BORDEAUX COMPARISON
March 10, 2004
1999
BAROLO March 3, 2004
2000
Deluxe Napa CABERNETS February 18, 2004
2000
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS $50 & Under February 11, 2004
1998 BRUNELLO
DI MONTALCINO February 4, 2004
TURLEY
ZINFANDELS 1995 & 1999 Vintages January 7, 2004
2000
PRESTIGIOUS WEST COAST CABERNETS November 12, 2003
1999
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 5, 2003
SANTA
LUCIA HIGHLANDS PINOT NOIRS October 29, 2003
MOSTLY
2001 VINTAGE GIGONDAS October 22, 2003
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLO WINES October 9, 2003
SPARKLING
WINES-METHODE CHAMPENOISE October 1, 2003
1996
(Mostly) AUSTRALIAN (Mostly) SHIRAZ September 24, 2003
2000
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES September 10, 2003
PRIORATO
WINES FROM SPAIN September 3, 2003
WEST
COAST SANGIOVESES August 27, 2003
2000
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET (Mostly Premier Cru Wines) August 13, 2003
2000
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY August 6, 2003
2000
NAPA CABERNETS July 30, 2003
1999
TUSCAN SANGIOVESE-BASED WINES July 23, 2003
2000
VINTAGE MERLOTS July 9, 2003
SYRAHS
FROM HITHER & YON July 2, 2003
2001 CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS June 25, 2003
NEW
PINOT NOIRS June 4, 2003
1999
NAPA CABERNETS May 28, 2003
1994
PINOT NOIRS May 14, 2003
CHILEAN
CLARETS May 7, 2003
PETITE
SIRAHS of Current Release.
April 30, 2003
1999
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHETS Premier Cru Selections April 9, 2003
1999
GRAND CRU'S of GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN April 2, 2003
1999-2000 SOUTHERN FRENCH REDS (RHONE
WANNABE'S) MARCH 26, 2003
1995-1996
VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE TASTING MARCH 12, 2003
2000
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TASTING MARCH 5, 2003
2000
NAPA VALLEY CABERNET TASTING FEBRUARY 26th, 2003
1990
FRENCH RED BURGUNDY TASTING February 12, 2003
1999
& 2000 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS November 13, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS November 6, 2002
1997
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO OCTOBER 30, 2002
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING OCTOBER 23, 2002
1999
CHATEAUNEUF-du-PAPE TASTING October 9, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS September 25, 2002
1999
WASHINGTON STATE CABERNETS September 11, 2002
1991
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 4, 2002
1999
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1er Cru Tasting August 28, 2002
AUSTRALIAN
CABERNETS (Mostly 1999s) August 14, 2002
1999
FRENCH BURGUNDY July 24, 2002
1999
GRAVES BLANC July 10, 2002
2000
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY July 3, 2002
1999/2000
CONDRIEU TASTING June 26, 2002
1999
PAUILLAC & SAINT JULIEN TASTING June 12, 2002
1999
MARGAUX TASTING June 5, 2002
1985
CABERNETS & MEDOC TASTING May 29, 2002
1998
California CABERNETS May 22, 2002
South
American MALBEC May 8, 2002
1999
West Coast MERLOTS May 1, 2002
Central
Coast (California) PINOT NOIRS April 24, 2002
2001
Southern Hemisphere SAUVIGNON BLANCS April 10, 2002
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINFANDELS April 3, 2002
1999
FRENCH RHÔNE SYRAHS February 13, 2002
(Mostly) 1999 CALIFORNIA SYRAHS January 30,
2002
MORE
1997 BAROLO January 23, 2002
1997
Late-Released CABERNETS January 9, 2002
1997
BAROLO October 24, 2001
1985-1990
RED BURGUNDIES October 10, 2001
1998
Grand Crus of Gevrey Chambertin October 3, 2001
PRIORAT
WINES September 26, 2001
1998
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE September 12, 2001
1999
"High Roller" CHARDONNAYS September 5, 2001
1998
BORDEAUX August 22, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS August 8, 2001
1997
VOSNE-ROMANÉE
Tasting August 1, 2001
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINS July 25, 2001
1998 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS
July 11, 2001
OLD
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS June 6, 2001
1997 ECHEZEAUX May 30, 2001
1999 NORTH
COAST ZINFANDELS May 23, 2001
1999
West Coast Merlots May 9, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS May 2, 2001
1997
BARBARESCO April 25, 2001
Mostly RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIRS
April 11, 2001
1997
NAPA CABERNETS April 4, 2001
1995
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 28, 2001
1997 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY &
MOREY SAINT DENIS
with one 1996...March 14, 2001
1997
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN March 7, 2001
1996
BAROLO February 28, 2001
1978-1979
California Cabernets January 10, 2001
1997
California Cabernets November 8, 2000
1997
TUSCAN SANGIOVESES November 1, 2000
1997-1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
& CALIFORNIA WANNABEEs October 25, 2000
Mostly 1998 PINOT NOIRS
October 11, 2000
1996
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 4, 2000
MATURE
CLARETS September 27, 2000
1997
RED BORDEAUX September 13, 2000
1997 NAPA CABERNETS
September 6, 2000
1998
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS August 30, 2000
1997 CLOS DE VOUGEOTS August 23,
2000
PETITE
SIRAH & SYRAH (West Coast) August 9, 2000
FANCY
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS August 2, 2000
1996
FAMOUS CALIFORNIA CABERNETS June 14, 2000
WEST
COAST SYRAHS June 7, 2000
1997 CABERNETS May 31,
2000
VIOGNIERS
of RECENT VINTAGE May 24, 2000
1997-1998
ZINFANDELS May 10, 2000
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS May 3, 2000
1996
California CABERNETS April 12, 2000
1996
FRENCH RED BURGUNDIES March 29, 2000
CALIFORNIA
vs ITALIAN (Tuscan) SANGIOVESE March 22, 2000
WEST COAST
PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2000
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING March 1, 2000
FRENCH
CHAMPAGNES (NV BRUTS) January 5, 2000
1996
BORDEAUX (MEDOC) TASTING November 10, 1999
CABERNET-INFLUENCED VINI FROM
ITALY November 3, 1999
CABERNETS OF THE WORLD
TASTING October 27, 1999
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