SOUTHERN FRENCH
REDS:
RHÔNE WANNABE'S
A Blind Tasting
March 26, 2003 |
Notes by
GERALD WEISL
wine merchant
Long ago and far away the vast "south of France" was awash in
really modest quality wine. It seemed nobody in the Languedoc and
Roussillon regions had the faintest clue about making good wine.
Good wine was something from more prestigious places such as Bordeaux and
Burgundy. The south of France was home to high volume wines at very low
prices.
Only when consumption of wine dropped significantly did the notion of planting
higher quality (and coincidently), less bountiful varieties gain
popularity. Today even large grower's cooperative wineries talk about
smaller yields and they often produce a special, higher quality wine.
Today's Languedoc and Roussillon is the home to new, innovative wine
growers. Many people have planted varieties which do well in warm climate
vineyards: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvdre and Cabernet Sauvignon to name a few.
Despite the fact that wines from this part of the planet are achieving record
high prices, if they're able to compete with most costly Rhne and California
bottlings, perhaps there's some "value" to be had for consumers.
We assembled a set of wines from this region from the 1999 and 2000
vintages. One wine was significantly ahead of the pack, though three or
four were quite good.
Here's what we found:
THE WINES |
Gerald' Rank |
Ellen's Rank |
Bob's Rank |
GROUP RANK |
TOTAL POINTS |
1sts/2nds/
Lasts |
DOMAINE
CLAVEL
2000
Coteaux du Languedoc
Copa Santa
$ 22 |
3 |
1 |
7 |
3 |
47 |
4/0/0 |
DOMAINE
FERRER RIBIERE
1999 Côtes du Roussillon
Cuvée Cana
$17 |
2 |
2 |
1 |
1 |
32 |
4/6/0 |
CHÂTEAU GRES SAINT PAUL
2000 Coteaux du Languedoc
Antonin
$15 |
4 |
4 |
3 |
5 |
59 |
1/0/1 |
DOMAINE
du MAS BLANC
1999 Collioure
Clos du Moulin
$25 |
8 |
5 |
2 |
6 |
71 |
0/2/3 |
DOMAINE
du MAS BLANC
1999 Collioure
Cosprons Levants
$22 |
7 |
7 |
8 |
8 |
84 |
0/0/3 |
CHÂTEAU de la NEGLY
1999 Coteaux du Languedoc
La Falaise
$19 |
1 |
6 |
4 |
4 |
53 |
2/2/2 |
CHÂTEAU PUECH-HAUT
1999 Coteaux du Languedoc
Le Rouge Prestige-St. Drzry
$27 |
6 |
3 |
5 |
2 |
41 |
2/2/0 |
DOMAINE
DE SALENTE
1999 Coteaux du Languedoc
LAme de Salente
$28 |
5 |
8 |
6 |
7 |
81 |
0/1/4 |
8th Place: DOMAINE DU MAS BLANC 1999 COLLIOURE "Cosprons
Levants"
I included the wines of Mas Blanc on the strength of glowing reviews
from Robert Parker's "The Wine Advocate." He gave the highest
praise to the 2000 vintages of Mas Blanc wines and we have access to the 1999s,
so we included two bottlings.
One critic said "There's not much of interest here, so I ranked this
fourth." Bob said "There's a lot on the nose but it was too
light and thin with no depth or concentration. The aromas are fascinating,
however, displaying plums, cherries, spice, candy, jujube's, with some leafy
elements, too." Another taster pegged this as "candied,"
while someone else felt it had "light, Grenache-like notes."
I found it to be a ripe and seemingly warm red wine with lots of jammy and
stewed fruit elements on the nose. It's dry and mildly tannic, but a very
ordinary quality red wine of no particular interest. No stars (on my three
star scale, 0 being standard or ordinary, three being exceptional).
7th Place: DOMAINE DE SALENTE 1999 COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC "L'Ame
de Salente"
With the famous enologist Jean-Luc Colombo as a partner in this
property, one might be surprised to hear the adjectives applied to this
wine. One critic found "H2S
aromas and a petroleum pungency with spicy, pine and metallic notes. It
does have a bit of blackberry fruit in there, however." Someone else
criticized this for being "bitter." Another person characterized
this as being "So odd! I tasted the fruit here, but it's really
sour!" Another panel member found a "strange, veggie tone, such
as cooked Brussels sprouts or turnips." One fan encountered
"lemon grass notes that are very unusual, but it's really an extravagant
wine that's long and has a nice peppery finish." Another taster
dismissed this for it's character he likened to "grapefruit."
I found it to be a very odd wine with the earthy notes of a weird Pinot
Noir! It's a bit meaty and lightly smoky and woodsy with hints of leather
and eucalyptus on the nose. There's bright berry fruit and some nice spice
notes on the palate. One star.
6th Place: DOMAINE DU MAS BLANC 1999 COLLIOURE "Clos du
Moulin"
With many negative comments, the first person to offer an opinion found
this to have the aroma of "Brettanomyces." A second critic
described the fragrances as "revolting." A third person
encountered "Cte-Rtie, peppery notes that was sort of like licking the
bottom of a pepper grinder!" Someone else found "A lot of Syrah
here." Another critic said "It doesn't entice on the nose and
the taste is flat." Someone else chimed in that this is "low in
acidity."
I was bothered by many facets of this wine. The nose struck me as dirty
and mushroomy with lots of earthiness. It also shows evidence of coming
from a very hot climate region, yet with unripe fruit fragrances such as stemmy
and stalky notes. On the palate the wine has a strong attack from the
alcohol and it's simply not especially charming being tannic and lacking
fruit. You can keep this one!
5th Place: CHÂTEAU GRES SAINT PAUL 2000 COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC "Antonin"
One critic found this to be "Gamey and showing green pepper
notes...it's deep and intense, being tannic and very complex with a long
aftertaste." A less enthusiastic voice described it as being
reminiscent of "dirty sweat socks with dirty cellar fragrances, some
grapefruit notes and an herbal, minty character with candied grapefruit
peel...it's rather disjointed." A third person described it as
"complex and jammy but it opened nicely and is intense." One
taster questioned whether or not this was corky initially, but we figured if it
was corked, that would not have blown off. Besides, nobody else found that
particular flaw here. A final word was it had "green aromas like pine
needles with a cedary character and then jam. It's a schizophrenic
wine!"
I found a curious aroma which reminded me of a salty, sea breeze which then
opened to show berryish fruit and a white pepper spicy character. I found
it to be very Syrah-like. It's big and tannic on the palate, being a huge
red. The question here is whether or not the wine will ever be balanced,
as the tannin level seems to overwhelm all else. Perhaps it warrants a one
star rating. I can se this being more interesting with fatty red meats or
duck.
4th Place: CHÂTEAU de la NEGLY 1999 COTEAU DU LANGUEDOC "La
Falaise"
"This shows quite a lot of highly charred oak." said one
taster. Another found it to be "Very nice peppery red with some
bit. The nose is quite appealing." Someone else found a note of
"SO2." Another
taster described the nose as being reminiscent of "Rosemary and horse
urine." How they would know, so well, that curious aroma, I am not
sure! Another critic found this to have a "Tart entry with citrus
pith flavors and a bitter, tannic finish." On a more positive note, a
final taster found "Intense blackberry notes with cigar box and wood chip
elements. It's got great structure and a nice, peppery finish."
In looking for "Rhne Wannabe's," I felt this displayed the most
character of a Northern Rhne Syrah. It's intensely berryish with underlying
hickory, smoky, bacony aromas. These same features shine brightly on the
palate with a nicely tannic backbone. I felt this was a two star
wine. Very fine!
3rd Place: DOMAINE CLAVEL 2000 COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC "Copa
Santa"
"This has lovely, high-toned fruit with kirsch and cassis.
It's almost more like a young, fresh, barrel sample...a lovely wine." said
the first taster. A second taster found this to have "Great
fruit. It's a bit soft and not especially tannic, with warm, cassis notes
and a burned, cedary character." Another person found it to be soft,
while someone else said "It's got an alcoholic bite on the
finish." Yet another taster described it as having a "hot
finish." One fellow described it as "a Santa Barbara-type
Syrah...it's more of a California-styled wine." A more critical
taster encountered "Tomato stems and herbaceous notes with way too much
tannin."
If I were using the Robert Parker set of adjectives, this wine would be
described as having "gobs of fruit." It's extremely fruity,
showing notes of prunes (without being flawed), beets, raspberries and then
having a high-toned note reminiscent of Beaujolais or whole-berry fermented red
wine. These same features shine on the palate, the wine seemingly showing
the whole berry fruit fermentation, yet with traditionally-fermented notes as
well. I can't imagine this cellaring especially well, since it's rather
attractive right now while all that vibrant fruit is still, uh, vibrant.
One star.
2nd Place: CHÂTEAU PUECH-HAUT 1999 COTEAU DU LANGUEDOC "Le Rouge Prestige"
St. Drzry
One
critic encountered "Hay aromas with an earthy, mulberry, floral jammy tone
along with sweet cherry concentrate laced with peppermint." Another
person described this as "Cherry flavored pepper." One panel
member found "Black currant aromas, but it's a rather unremarkable
wine." Someone else found this to have a lot of "Blueberry
notes...I wonder if this is predominantly Mourvdre?" A final critic
said it was "dark, thick and luscious and somewhat similar to the winning
wine from Ferrer Ribiere."
I found this to show a mildly spicy character at first with a light berry
fragrance. But it seemed to take on an earthy and then a resiny quality
which I did not care for. On the palate I found the wine to be like
several others in that it reminded me of some wines from California's Paso
Robles region: showing over-ripe fruit character from dried grapes as well
as an herbal, immature fruit character from over-cropping or the fact that the
fruit simply did not arrive at a point of "maturity."
1st
Place: DOMAINE FERRER RIBIERE 1999 CTES DE ROUSSILLON "Cuvée
Cana"
One taster said this is a "Nice Syrah with good fruit and it's a
rather complex wine." Someone else found "Ripe cassis-like fruit
with blackberry jam and mint. It's soft, yet somewhat tannic."
One of the panel who was less impressed downgraded this for being "too flat
and flabby." Another person encountered a "Very good wine...it's
shows strawberry or red fruits, rather than dense, dark black fruit
elements."
I found a fair bit of oak influencing this wine. It's got a nicely woodsy
character on the nose with some blackberryish fruit and a hint of black
licorice. If you're looking for a less woody wine, you probably won't like
this, but if you don't mind the internationally-styling (oak) here, this is
quite good. Nice balance between tannin and fruit, too.
One-and-a-half to two stars.
Cuvée Cana is made from very ripe Grenache with Syrah and Mourvèdre and then
matured for about 14 months in barrique.

Please note: The wines tasted are not always wines
we have (or have had) in the shop.
Many bottles are merely for our enological exploration.
Price quoted are current at the time of the tasting, but may be different
when you're reading this. |
WE HAVE NOT ORGANIZED A TASTING IN A WHILE...
BUT WE DO POST THE RESULTS OF A PRIVATE TASTING GROUP THAT'S BEEN MEETING FOR
MORE THAN 47 YEARS!
We are working on
organizing some blind-tastings at the shop.
Send us a note to indicate your interest in participating.
These would be on Wednesday evenings and you'd need to bring 8 wine glasses.
THE
VINO-FINO TASTERS
(A private tasting group that's
been meeting for more than 44 years!)
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Interesting
Paired CHARDONNAYS
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LANGUEDOC REDS August 15, 2001
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Mostly
1998 NEBBIOLO June 20, 2001
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16, 2001
1996
SAINT-MILION Tasting April 18, 2001
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CHARDONNAYS March 21, 2001
1984-1985
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FROM THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE: CLARETS June 21, 2000
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2003
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OLDER
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2003
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CALIFORNIA
SYRAHS 2003-2004 July 5, 2006
2004
CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS June 21, 2006
GRAND
CRU BURGUNDIES 2003 VINTAGE May 31, 2006
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 CABERNETS & 1990 BORDEAUX May 17, 2006
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AMERICAN CLARETS May 10, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE May 3, 2006
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GOLDEN STATE PINOT NOIRS April 19, 2006
2002
NAPA CABERNETS March 15, 2006
2003
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2006
2003
NORTH COAST ZINFANDELS March 1, 2006
1996
BURGUNDIES vs. 1997 SONOMA PINOT NOIRS November 9, 2005
2002
CABERNETS, ETC. November 2, 2005
2002 NAPA
CABERNETS October 19, 2005
2002
GRAND CRU BURGUNDIES September 14, 2005
2002
RED BURGUNDIES September 7, 2005
2002
MEURSAULTS August 31, 2005
NORTHERN
RHNE SYRAHS August 17, 2005
HIGHLY-REGARDED AUSSIE
SHIRAZ August 10, 2005
AUSSIE SHIRAZ UNDER
$60 August 3, 2005
STUPIDLY-PRICED
SPANISH TEMPRANILLO WINES June 8, 2005
RANDOM
CALIFORNIA SYRAHS June 1, 2005
2002
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS May 18, 2005
2001
NAPA CABERNETS May 11, 2005
OREGON
PINOT NOIRS-2002 & 2003 VINTAGE WINES April 27, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 BURGUNDIES and a COUPLE OF CALIFORNIA PINOTS April 6, 2005
CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS (Mostly 2002s) MARCH 16, 2002
1999
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 9, 2005
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS March 2, 2005
PETITE
SIRAHS February 16, 2005
ROS CHAMPAGNES AND
CALIFORNIA PINK BUBBLIES February 9, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1991 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS January 19, 2005
2001
FAMOUS AND INFAMOUS CABERNETS November 10, 2004
2001
Napa CABERNETS November 3, 2004
WEST
COAST SYRAHS October 20, 2004
1990
RED BORDEAUX & CALIFORNIA CLARETS October 13, 2004
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLOS of 1999 & 2000 September 29, 2004
2002
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET September 8, 2004
2002
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET September 1, 2004
UNDER
THE RADAR PINOT NOIRS August 18, 2004
2001
SAINT-JULIEN & PAUILLACS July 21, 2004
2001
MARGAUX July 14, 2004
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1982 BORDEAUX July 7, 2004
2001 POMEROLS
June 30, 2004
2001
SAINT MILIONS June 16, 2004
2000
CLOS de VOUGEOT (and a ringer) MAY 12, 2004
2001
OREGON PINOT NOIRS May 5, 2004
2001
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS April 21, 2004
1994
WEST COAST CABERNETS APRIL 14, 2004
1999-2000 BORDEAUX COMPARISON
March 10, 2004
1999
BAROLO March 3, 2004
2000
Deluxe Napa CABERNETS February 18, 2004
2000
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS $50 & Under February 11, 2004
1998 BRUNELLO
DI MONTALCINO February 4, 2004
TURLEY
ZINFANDELS 1995 & 1999 Vintages January 7, 2004
2000
PRESTIGIOUS WEST COAST CABERNETS November 12, 2003
1999
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 5, 2003
SANTA
LUCIA HIGHLANDS PINOT NOIRS October 29, 2003
MOSTLY
2001 VINTAGE GIGONDAS October 22, 2003
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLO WINES October 9, 2003
SPARKLING
WINES-METHODE CHAMPENOISE October 1, 2003
1996
(Mostly) AUSTRALIAN (Mostly) SHIRAZ September 24, 2003
2000
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES September 10, 2003
PRIORATO
WINES FROM SPAIN September 3, 2003
WEST
COAST SANGIOVESES August 27, 2003
2000
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET (Mostly Premier Cru Wines) August 13, 2003
2000
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY August 6, 2003
2000
NAPA CABERNETS July 30, 2003
1999
TUSCAN SANGIOVESE-BASED WINES July 23, 2003
2000
VINTAGE MERLOTS July 9, 2003
SYRAHS
FROM HITHER & YON July 2, 2003
2001 CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS June 25, 2003
NEW
PINOT NOIRS June 4, 2003
1999
NAPA CABERNETS May 28, 2003
1994
PINOT NOIRS May 14, 2003
CHILEAN
CLARETS May 7, 2003
PETITE
SIRAHS of Current Release.
April 30, 2003
1999
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHETS Premier Cru Selections April 9, 2003
1999
GRAND CRU'S of GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN April 2, 2003
1999-2000 SOUTHERN FRENCH REDS (RHONE
WANNABE'S) MARCH 26, 2003
1995-1996
VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE TASTING MARCH 12, 2003
2000
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TASTING MARCH 5, 2003
2000
NAPA VALLEY CABERNET TASTING FEBRUARY 26th, 2003
1990
FRENCH RED BURGUNDY TASTING February 12, 2003
1999
& 2000 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS November 13, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS November 6, 2002
1997
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO OCTOBER 30, 2002
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING OCTOBER 23, 2002
1999
CHATEAUNEUF-du-PAPE TASTING October 9, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS September 25, 2002
1999
WASHINGTON STATE CABERNETS September 11, 2002
1991
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 4, 2002
1999
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1er Cru Tasting August 28, 2002
AUSTRALIAN
CABERNETS (Mostly 1999s) August 14, 2002
1999
FRENCH BURGUNDY July 24, 2002
1999
GRAVES BLANC July 10, 2002
2000
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY July 3, 2002
1999/2000
CONDRIEU TASTING June 26, 2002
1999
PAUILLAC & SAINT JULIEN TASTING June 12, 2002
1999
MARGAUX TASTING June 5, 2002
1985
CABERNETS & MEDOC TASTING May 29, 2002
1998
California CABERNETS May 22, 2002
South
American MALBEC May 8, 2002
1999
West Coast MERLOTS May 1, 2002
Central
Coast (California) PINOT NOIRS April 24, 2002
2001
Southern Hemisphere SAUVIGNON BLANCS April 10, 2002
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINFANDELS April 3, 2002
1999
FRENCH RHÔNE SYRAHS February 13, 2002
(Mostly) 1999 CALIFORNIA SYRAHS January 30,
2002
MORE
1997 BAROLO January 23, 2002
1997
Late-Released CABERNETS January 9, 2002
1997
BAROLO October 24, 2001
1985-1990
RED BURGUNDIES October 10, 2001
1998
Grand Crus of Gevrey Chambertin October 3, 2001
PRIORAT
WINES September 26, 2001
1998
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE September 12, 2001
1999
"High Roller" CHARDONNAYS September 5, 2001
1998
BORDEAUX August 22, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS August 8, 2001
1997
VOSNE-ROMANÉE
Tasting August 1, 2001
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINS July 25, 2001
1998 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS
July 11, 2001
OLD
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS June 6, 2001
1997 ECHEZEAUX May 30, 2001
1999 NORTH
COAST ZINFANDELS May 23, 2001
1999
West Coast Merlots May 9, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS May 2, 2001
1997
BARBARESCO April 25, 2001
Mostly RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIRS
April 11, 2001
1997
NAPA CABERNETS April 4, 2001
1995
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 28, 2001
1997 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY &
MOREY SAINT DENIS
with one 1996...March 14, 2001
1997
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN March 7, 2001
1996
BAROLO February 28, 2001
1978-1979
California Cabernets January 10, 2001
1997
California Cabernets November 8, 2000
1997
TUSCAN SANGIOVESES November 1, 2000
1997-1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
& CALIFORNIA WANNABEEs October 25, 2000
Mostly 1998 PINOT NOIRS
October 11, 2000
1996
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 4, 2000
MATURE
CLARETS September 27, 2000
1997
RED BORDEAUX September 13, 2000
1997 NAPA CABERNETS
September 6, 2000
1998
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS August 30, 2000
1997 CLOS DE VOUGEOTS August 23,
2000
PETITE
SIRAH & SYRAH (West Coast) August 9, 2000
FANCY
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS August 2, 2000
1996
FAMOUS CALIFORNIA CABERNETS June 14, 2000
WEST
COAST SYRAHS June 7, 2000
1997 CABERNETS May 31,
2000
VIOGNIERS
of RECENT VINTAGE May 24, 2000
1997-1998
ZINFANDELS May 10, 2000
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS May 3, 2000
1996
California CABERNETS April 12, 2000
1996
FRENCH RED BURGUNDIES March 29, 2000
CALIFORNIA
vs ITALIAN (Tuscan) SANGIOVESE March 22, 2000
WEST COAST
PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2000
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING March 1, 2000
FRENCH
CHAMPAGNES (NV BRUTS) January 5, 2000
1996
BORDEAUX (MEDOC) TASTING November 10, 1999
CABERNET-INFLUENCED VINI FROM
ITALY November 3, 1999
CABERNETS OF THE WORLD
TASTING October 27, 1999

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