|
NORTHERN RHNES
A Blind Tasting of 2001s
August 18, 2005
Notes by
Gerald Weisl,
wine merchant
Having tasted two sets of Syrah wines from Australia in the preceding weeks,
I was interested to assemble a set of Syrahs from the Northern Rhne Valley to
see how the "benchmark" wines are tasting.
We ended up tasting 8 wines from the 2001 vintage, a year that's regarded as
"good," but short of outstanding. Still, based upon the prices
being asked for these wines, one might conclude there should be more than a
standard level of merit to the wines. The least costly wine was a $60
bottle, well above what the average wine drinker spends for a good bottle of
wine.
One wine distanced itself from the group in a positive way. One wine was
well behind the group. The third place wine was a mere 6 points ahead of
the seventh place entrant, meaning the pack was rather closely bunched together.
Bob Gorman did not participate in this tasting, being under the weather.
Here's what we found:
| The Wines |
Gerald's Rank |
Ellen's Rank |
GROUP RANK |
Total Points |
1sts/2nds/
Lasts |
CHAPOUTIER
2001 Cte Rtie
La Mordore
$145 |
5 |
8 |
5 |
59 |
1/0/1 |
CHAPOUTIER
2001 Ermitage
LErmite
$240 |
3 |
4 |
7 |
62 |
0/1/2 |
A. CLAPE
2001 Cornas
$90 |
2 |
6 |
8 |
71 |
1/1/5 |
JEAN-MICHEL GERIN
2001 Cte Rtie
Les Grandes Places
$125 |
8 |
1 |
4 |
58 |
3/0/4 |
GUIGAL
2001 Ermitage
Ex Voto
$220 |
6 |
7 |
3 |
56 |
2/1/0 |
JABOULET
2001 Hermitage
La Chapelle
$145 |
7 |
5 |
6 |
59 |
1/0/0 |
DOMAINE JAMET
2001 Cte Rtie
$90 |
1 |
3 |
1 |
29 |
4/2/0 |
DOMAINE des REMIZIERES
2001 Hermitage
Cuve Emilie
$60 |
4 |
2 |
2 |
38 |
0/7/0 |
8th Place: A.
CLAPE 2001
Cornas
One
taster noted this as being merely "coarse and tannic." Someone
else knocked it for "not having much aroma." Another critic
likened its "green pepper sort of character" to that of some vegetal
Merlot wines. Another person found a "weedy nose with notes of cough
medicine and a sweet quality." Someone else found "A big, rich,
extracted wine showing notes of dark plums. It's kind of reminiscent of
some wines from California's Pax winery. Eucalyptus notes.
Reminiscent of some Thackrey Orion vintages. The fruit was a bit
hidden. Dark fruit finish. A classic Rhne wine!" One
panel member found a "grainy texture to this wine, with unripe plum fruit
and earthy loganberries and a note of boiled pig's knuckles. Limestone
notes are present on a tannic finish."
I felt this was one of several of the wines which can easily be identified as
coming from the Northern Rhne. It offered some of the bacony notes of
good Syrah wine, showing a touch of tapenade, too. It's very distinctive
on the nose. I found dark cherry fruit flavors with some herbal tones on
the palate. Perhaps a hint of rhubarb. It simply tastes like Syrah
with berries and a hint of pepper. It's got 10-15 years' worth of
tannin. I gave it a one-and-a-half star to two star ranking on my three
star scale, no stars being a standard quality wine.
7th Place: CHAPOUTIER
2001
Ermitage LErmite
"This
is a medium-bodied red, with layers of smoky notes and wet earth. There's
a roasted chestnut character here along with tobacco and wood spices." said
one panel member. Another taster found it "...to be beautiful, if a
bit sharp. It's precisely what I am looking for in a Rhne
wine." Someone else described it as having a "good nose with
raspberry, cherry and vanilla notes. The flavors show tones of candied
cherries, but it seemed to fall apart in the glass." Someone else
took issue with that, saying "this wine got better as it opened. It
also has a nice balance." A final critic mentioned finding notes of
"cracked pepper on the nose, though overall, it's a bit simple."
I found a whiff of wood to start and a cedar tone on the fragrance along with
dark cherry fruit. I felt the wine blossomed in the glass as it warmed and
aired. Eventually I detected a hint of violets on the nose, too. The
flavors are in a spicy direction, showing hints of peppery notes and
spice. The flavors are not especially lengthy, but certainly the wine
shows elements of Rhne Syrah. I gave it a one-and-a-half star rating.
6th Place: JABOULET
2001
Hermitage La Chapelle
This
wine has "good richness," according to one taster, who found
"nice textures on the palate with blackberry and black raspberry fruit, a
touch of smoked bacon, cedar, toast and tar. There's a minerally quality
and a note of saddle leather, too." One person found it "very
fragrant and floral, but it's not especially a Rhne-styled
Syrah. It came along, though, as it sat in the glass." Someone
else felt "they oaked up this wine and this was a mistake."
Another person found it to be "very Cte-Rtie like with hints of burnt
rubber or tar-like scents." Another person encountered notes of
"dried cranberries."
I found dark fruit aromas with a hint of black olives and a lightly woodsy
tone. I was more positive about the wine's aromatics than its flavors,
though. It was berryish on the palate, but I did not find it to be
especially deep, complex or compelling. It's a good, solid Rhne, but I
was not sensitive to this being a really grand vin.
5th Place: CHAPOUTIER
2001
Cte Rtie La Mordore
"This
did not display much on the nose," said one taster. "It's a
decent red wine with a short finish." Someone else characterized it
as "Horsy and sweaty. It's hot and tannic on the palate."
Another person found it to be "Complex, with floral tones and blackberry
fruit. I liked the cocoa powder notes and sweet some elements.
There's a touch of milk chocolate and it has a nice, round finish."
One panel member described it as having "firm tannins." Someone
else felt this was "a bit volatile to start. It seemed to benefit
with warming and airing. Sour, though. It's a typically big, 'Bretty'
Syrah."
I found medium intensity to the fragrance of this wine, noting hints of dried
cherry fruit. It's got the same sort of character on the palate, with
rather grippy tannins and a touch of spice. I gave it a one to
one-and-a-half star rating.
4th Place: JEAN-MICHEL
GERIN 2001
Cte Rtie Les Grandes Places
Here's
a wine which proved to be somewhat controversial. I was surprised by some
of the descriptors people used to talk about this wine, since I found one main
element here: oak. One taster, though, said it was "Thin and
green-tasting." Someone else described it as showing "Nice
blueberry fruit but it fell apart in the glass and was a bit weak and thin on
the finish." Another panel member mentioned finding "Crisp,
citrusy notes in this somewhat sour, red berried wine. It's minerally,
showing notes of iron and a wet earth component." One person found
"classic berry-like fruit and a bit of leather, tar and crystallized berry
fruit. It's got a long finish."
Wow...nobody mentioned this wine as smelling and tasting exclusively of
oak! I found the wine to show a nice bit of wood, but ultimately I marked
it down for smelling and tasting ONLY of a piece of wood. I could not
possibly identify this, in the context of a tasting of
Syrahs as coming from the Rhne! It reminded me (a lot) of wines I've
tasted from parts of France and Italy where the use of new barrels is a
relatively recent occurrence. I've tasted earlier vintages of Gerin's wine
and don't recall the wine having such a high level of wood to where it totally
obscured the Rhne Syrah notes. I ranked this last since it had the least
amount of terroir of the eight wines we tasted.
3rd
Place: GUIGAL
2001
Ermitage Ex Voto
One
taster encountered "cigar box" fragrances and flavors in this deluxe
bottling from Guigal. Another person found "Strange, sort of musty
notes and an over-ripe nose." Someone else said "This wine had
the least amount of Northern Rhne
character of any of the wine. It's fruit forward and a bit jammy with a
hint of white pepper and a decent finish, but it's flabby." Another
taster agreed, finding this "very flabby and yet it's sort of
sour." Someone else found "cherry-like fruit" and another
described this as "heavily oaked, showing notes of game, roast meats and
smoky tones." One person concluded "If there was a ringer in the
tasting, then this would have been it!"
I'm amused by the notion of this being an "ex voto" wine (defined as
some sort of "offering" as a vow to a saint or god), since I suspect
Robert Parker is to be the recipient! I found it to show really ripe
fruit, a sort of jammy quality dominating the nose. The fragrances
were along the lines of a cherry liqueur, but it seemed as though the wine
lacked a bit of vitality. I wondered if the wine had not been left too
long in wood, as the fruit seemed to offer less vitality than most other
wines. The wine seemed potent and intense on the palate, but it did not
strike me as a Rhne Syrah. I recall visiting Monsieur Guigal some years
ago. He told me how he felt "closer" to his California brethren than
to Australia Syrah producers. I couldn't help but wonder if, deep down,
Monsieur Guigal doesn't view this wine as more "Australian" than as
typical of his home turf. Or is it simply aimed as an effort to please
Robert Parker?
2nd Place: DOMAINE
des REMIZIERES 2001
Hermitage Cuve Emilie
One
taster found this to show "Black tar and it's too strong."
Another panel member detected "Burnt oak and a mushroomy character.
It took a while to open, eventually showing dark cherry fruit. It's rather
nice on the palate, with good structure." Someone else questioned the
structure of the wine, saying "It's quite tannic and doesn't have enough
fruit to go with its elevated level of astringency." Another person
described it as "The quintessential Northern Rhne.
There are perfumy notes along with hints of lavender and leather...Bitter coffee
beans, cedar and a mildly cherryish finish."
I noted some earthy tones to the fragrance with a hint of smoke and bacon.
It shows Rhne-like elements, but I knocked it down a bit since it didn't
strike me as being really clean. There's a funky note to the
fragrance. It's a big, tannic, well-structured wine. If you can deal
with the nose, this might be a good bet for cellaring. I gave it one star.
1st Place: DOMAINE
JAMET 2001
Cte Rtie
The
run-away winner, one person described this as "Wonderful! It's got
lovely floral notes and is stern and austere. It shows notes of black
plums and has a spicy, mildly peppery quality." Someone else found
"It's really nice with a classic Syrah nose." Another person
described this as showing "Dark berry fruit and some tobacco
notes." One tasting participant found it "Closed and tart at the
beginning. Raspberry notes are nice and it changed completely over the
course of the evening, displaying dark cherry fruit and good
structure." A final taster likened this to the sport of horse
racing, saying "This is a real thoroughbred...it really opens up on the
back stretch!"
I felt this was a classic example of Northern Rhne
Syrah. Unmistakably so! The aromas display notes of herbs, olives
and a hint of mushrooms and truffles. There's a lot of Rhne spice on the
palate. It's not as huge as some other wines, but it's got good fruit and
a nice level of tannin to allow this to cellar well for ten years, or so.
I gave it two stars+. Very fine!
|
Please note: The wines tasted are not always wines
we have (or have had) in the shop.
Many bottles are merely for our enological exploration.
Price quoted are current at the time of the tasting, but may be different
when you're reading this. |
WE HAVE NOT ORGANIZED A TASTING IN A WHILE...
BUT WE DO POST THE RESULTS OF A PRIVATE TASTING GROUP THAT'S BEEN MEETING FOR
MORE THAN 47 YEARS!
We are working on
organizing some blind-tastings at the shop.
Send us a note to indicate your interest in participating.
These would be on Wednesday evenings and you'd need to bring 8 wine glasses.
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FROM ALSACE July 2004
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AGLIANICO
WINES FROM CAMPANIA & BASILICATA May 2004
MONTEPULCIANO
WINES FROM THE ABRUZZO & MARCHE REGIONS April 2004
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ZINFANDELS February 2004
1997
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO January 2004
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FINO HOLIDAY BACCHANALIA 2003
2001
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2000
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2000
Bordeaux June 18, 2003
2000
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OFF
THE BEATEN PATH SYRAHS APRIL 16, 2003
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SHIRAZ August 21, 2002
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& SPARKLERS July 17, 2002
Interesting
Paired CHARDONNAYS
May 15, 2002
2001
Southern Hemisphere SAUVIGNON BLANCS Feb. 20, 2002
1999 ZINFANDELS January 16, 2002
HOLIDAY
SEASON BACCHANALIA
December 5, 2001
1999-2000
New PINOT NOIRS November 14, 2001
1999
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1998
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 19, 2001
1999
LANGUEDOC REDS August 15, 2001
1997
SAUTERNES July 18, 2001
Mostly
1998 NEBBIOLO June 20, 2001
1999 PINOT NOIRS May
16, 2001
1996
SAINT-MILION Tasting April 18, 2001
CARNEROS
CHARDONNAYS March 21, 2001
1984-1985
NAPA CABERNETS/John Vignau Memorial Tasting October 20, 2000
1997
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 20, 2000
1998 CALIFORNIA
CHARDONNAYS August 16, 2000
WINES
FROM THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE: CLARETS June 21, 2000
WINES
FROM UNDER THE TUSCAN (and Umbrian) SUN Aprile 19, 2000
1997 BORDEAUX: MEDOC May 17,
2000
WEIMAX TASTING ARCHIVE
NAPA
CABERNETS 2004 Vintage March 19, 2008
CALIFORNIA
PINOT NOIRS-2005s March 13, 2008
OREGON
PINOT NOIRS February 6, 2008
MOSTLY
2004 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS April 25, 2007
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STATE CLARETS April, 11, 2007
2004
NORTHERN RHONE SYRAHS April 4, 2007
2001
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO March 28, 2007
2001
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 8, 2006
2003
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 18, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPES-Flight #2 October 4, 2006
OLDER
TUSCAN REDS--MOSTLY SANGIOVESES September 20, 2006
2003
NAPA CABERNETS July 19, 2006
2003
SAINT EMILIONS July 12, 2006
CALIFORNIA
SYRAHS 2003-2004 July 5, 2006
2004
CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS June 21, 2006
GRAND
CRU BURGUNDIES 2003 VINTAGE May 31, 2006
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 CABERNETS & 1990 BORDEAUX May 17, 2006
SOUTH
AMERICAN CLARETS May 10, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE May 3, 2006
2004
GOLDEN STATE PINOT NOIRS April 19, 2006
2002
NAPA CABERNETS March 15, 2006
2003
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2006
2003
NORTH COAST ZINFANDELS March 1, 2006
1996
BURGUNDIES vs. 1997 SONOMA PINOT NOIRS November 9, 2005
2002
CABERNETS, ETC. November 2, 2005
2002 NAPA
CABERNETS October 19, 2005
2002
GRAND CRU BURGUNDIES September 14, 2005
2002
RED BURGUNDIES September 7, 2005
2002
MEURSAULTS August 31, 2005
NORTHERN
RHNE SYRAHS August 17, 2005
HIGHLY-REGARDED AUSSIE
SHIRAZ August 10, 2005
AUSSIE SHIRAZ UNDER
$60 August 3, 2005
STUPIDLY-PRICED
SPANISH TEMPRANILLO WINES June 8, 2005
RANDOM
CALIFORNIA SYRAHS June 1, 2005
2002
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS May 18, 2005
2001
NAPA CABERNETS May 11, 2005
OREGON
PINOT NOIRS-2002 & 2003 VINTAGE WINES April 27, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 BURGUNDIES and a COUPLE OF CALIFORNIA PINOTS April 6, 2005
CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS (Mostly 2002s) MARCH 16, 2002
1999
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 9, 2005
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS March 2, 2005
PETITE
SIRAHS February 16, 2005
ROS CHAMPAGNES AND
CALIFORNIA PINK BUBBLIES February 9, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1991 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS January 19, 2005
2001
FAMOUS AND INFAMOUS CABERNETS November 10, 2004
2001
Napa CABERNETS November 3, 2004
WEST
COAST SYRAHS October 20, 2004
1990
RED BORDEAUX & CALIFORNIA CLARETS October 13, 2004
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLOS of 1999 & 2000 September 29, 2004
2002
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET September 8, 2004
2002
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET September 1, 2004
UNDER
THE RADAR PINOT NOIRS August 18, 2004
2001
SAINT-JULIEN & PAUILLACS July 21, 2004
2001
MARGAUX July 14, 2004
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1982 BORDEAUX July 7, 2004
2001 POMEROLS
June 30, 2004
2001
SAINT MILIONS June 16, 2004
2000
CLOS de VOUGEOT (and a ringer) MAY 12, 2004
2001
OREGON PINOT NOIRS May 5, 2004
2001
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS April 21, 2004
1994
WEST COAST CABERNETS APRIL 14, 2004
1999-2000 BORDEAUX COMPARISON
March 10, 2004
1999
BAROLO March 3, 2004
2000
Deluxe Napa CABERNETS February 18, 2004
2000
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS $50 & Under February 11, 2004
1998 BRUNELLO
DI MONTALCINO February 4, 2004
TURLEY
ZINFANDELS 1995 & 1999 Vintages January 7, 2004
2000
PRESTIGIOUS WEST COAST CABERNETS November 12, 2003
1999
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 5, 2003
SANTA
LUCIA HIGHLANDS PINOT NOIRS October 29, 2003
MOSTLY
2001 VINTAGE GIGONDAS October 22, 2003
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLO WINES October 9, 2003
SPARKLING
WINES-METHODE CHAMPENOISE October 1, 2003
1996
(Mostly) AUSTRALIAN (Mostly) SHIRAZ September 24, 2003
2000
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES September 10, 2003
PRIORATO
WINES FROM SPAIN September 3, 2003
WEST
COAST SANGIOVESES August 27, 2003
2000
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET (Mostly Premier Cru Wines) August 13, 2003
2000
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY August 6, 2003
2000
NAPA CABERNETS July 30, 2003
1999
TUSCAN SANGIOVESE-BASED WINES July 23, 2003
2000
VINTAGE MERLOTS July 9, 2003
SYRAHS
FROM HITHER & YON July 2, 2003
2001 CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS June 25, 2003
NEW
PINOT NOIRS June 4, 2003
1999
NAPA CABERNETS May 28, 2003
1994
PINOT NOIRS May 14, 2003
CHILEAN
CLARETS May 7, 2003
PETITE
SIRAHS of Current Release.
April 30, 2003
1999
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHETS Premier Cru Selections April 9, 2003
1999
GRAND CRU'S of GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN April 2, 2003
1999-2000 SOUTHERN FRENCH REDS (RHONE
WANNABE'S) MARCH 26, 2003
1995-1996
VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE TASTING MARCH 12, 2003
2000
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TASTING MARCH 5, 2003
2000
NAPA VALLEY CABERNET TASTING FEBRUARY 26th, 2003
1990
FRENCH RED BURGUNDY TASTING February 12, 2003
1999
& 2000 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS November 13, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS November 6, 2002
1997
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO OCTOBER 30, 2002
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING OCTOBER 23, 2002
1999
CHATEAUNEUF-du-PAPE TASTING October 9, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS September 25, 2002
1999
WASHINGTON STATE CABERNETS September 11, 2002
1991
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 4, 2002
1999
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1er Cru Tasting August 28, 2002
AUSTRALIAN
CABERNETS (Mostly 1999s) August 14, 2002
1999
FRENCH BURGUNDY July 24, 2002
1999
GRAVES BLANC July 10, 2002
2000
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY July 3, 2002
1999/2000
CONDRIEU TASTING June 26, 2002
1999
PAUILLAC & SAINT JULIEN TASTING June 12, 2002
1999
MARGAUX TASTING June 5, 2002
1985
CABERNETS & MEDOC TASTING May 29, 2002
1998
California CABERNETS May 22, 2002
South
American MALBEC May 8, 2002
1999
West Coast MERLOTS May 1, 2002
Central
Coast (California) PINOT NOIRS April 24, 2002
2001
Southern Hemisphere SAUVIGNON BLANCS April 10, 2002
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINFANDELS April 3, 2002
1999
FRENCH RHÔNE SYRAHS February 13, 2002
(Mostly) 1999 CALIFORNIA SYRAHS January 30,
2002
MORE
1997 BAROLO January 23, 2002
1997
Late-Released CABERNETS January 9, 2002
1997
BAROLO October 24, 2001
1985-1990
RED BURGUNDIES October 10, 2001
1998
Grand Crus of Gevrey Chambertin October 3, 2001
PRIORAT
WINES September 26, 2001
1998
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE September 12, 2001
1999
"High Roller" CHARDONNAYS September 5, 2001
1998
BORDEAUX August 22, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS August 8, 2001
1997
VOSNE-ROMANÉE
Tasting August 1, 2001
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINS July 25, 2001
1998 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS
July 11, 2001
OLD
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS June 6, 2001
1997 ECHEZEAUX May 30, 2001
1999 NORTH
COAST ZINFANDELS May 23, 2001
1999
West Coast Merlots May 9, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS May 2, 2001
1997
BARBARESCO April 25, 2001
Mostly RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIRS
April 11, 2001
1997
NAPA CABERNETS April 4, 2001
1995
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 28, 2001
1997 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY &
MOREY SAINT DENIS
with one 1996...March 14, 2001
1997
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN March 7, 2001
1996
BAROLO February 28, 2001
1978-1979
California Cabernets January 10, 2001
1997
California Cabernets November 8, 2000
1997
TUSCAN SANGIOVESES November 1, 2000
1997-1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
& CALIFORNIA WANNABEEs October 25, 2000
Mostly 1998 PINOT NOIRS
October 11, 2000
1996
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 4, 2000
MATURE
CLARETS September 27, 2000
1997
RED BORDEAUX September 13, 2000
1997 NAPA CABERNETS
September 6, 2000
1998
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS August 30, 2000
1997 CLOS DE VOUGEOTS August 23,
2000
PETITE
SIRAH & SYRAH (West Coast) August 9, 2000
FANCY
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS August 2, 2000
1996
FAMOUS CALIFORNIA CABERNETS June 14, 2000
WEST
COAST SYRAHS June 7, 2000
1997 CABERNETS May 31,
2000
VIOGNIERS
of RECENT VINTAGE May 24, 2000
1997-1998
ZINFANDELS May 10, 2000
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS May 3, 2000
1996
California CABERNETS April 12, 2000
1996
FRENCH RED BURGUNDIES March 29, 2000
CALIFORNIA
vs ITALIAN (Tuscan) SANGIOVESE March 22, 2000
WEST COAST
PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2000
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING March 1, 2000
FRENCH
CHAMPAGNES (NV BRUTS) January 5, 2000
1996
BORDEAUX (MEDOC) TASTING November 10, 1999
CABERNET-INFLUENCED VINI FROM
ITALY November 3, 1999
CABERNETS OF THE WORLD
TASTING October 27, 1999
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