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ITALY: TOSCANA
If you ask most people to
name a wine from Italy, they'll probably come up with
"Chianti". It's the quintessential Tuscan wine, to be sure,
though, in terms of price and prestige, denominazione such as "Brunello di
Montalcino", "Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" along with a category of
proprietary wines, "Super Tuscans" (as they're called) far exceed the humble
Chianti.
Chianti is, typically, a blended red wine. The "Chianti" region covers
territory in the Provinces of Florence, Siena, Arezzo, Pistoia and Pisa. The
predominant grape is the Sangiovese. Other varieties play a minor role, the
laws governing the production of Chianti having changed over the last decade or so.
Originally, the laws called for Chianti to be a blend of Sangiovese, with another red
variety called Canaiolo, along with Malvasia and Trebbiano (white grapes!) and perhaps
some Malvasia Nera, Colorino or Mammolo.
Bound by tradition, it's only in the past ten or twenty years that we've seen real
advances in the overall quality of red wines from Tuscany. Some producers
thumbed their noses at the law. "Let them come here, see my Trebbiano vines,
taste my wine and tell me I'm doing something wrong," we were told by one winery
owner many years ago. This producer did not, of course, water down the Chianti with
Trebbiano. Other estates would purchase Cabernet or Merlot and include
this in their Chianti wine. We've visited some producers and, after tasting, are not
entirely certain the wines come from vineyards near the winery. The name of Chianti
and the chance to cash in with Super-Tuscan type wines is, apparently, an enticing
opportunity for some.
The law has finally changed and producers are allowed a certain amount of flexibility in
producing their wines. Today a Chianti might be 100% Sangiovese. While the law
used to require Trebbiano and Malvasia at a minimum of 10%, today there's a maximum of 6%
of these varieties. Starting with the 2006 vintage, no white grapes will
be allowed as part of a Chianti Classico wine. There's also a 15% maximum of "other" varieties
allowed and some estates use Syrah, Cabernet or Merlot to make their particular Chianti
blend. A traditional red grape of Chianti, the Canaiolo, is now limited to a 10%
maximum.
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CHIANTI CLASSICO TODAY:
80% Minimum of Sangiovese up to 100%
10% Maximum of Canaiolo
15% Maximum of "other" red grapes such as Cabernet, Merlot,
Syrah, etc.
White grapes will no longer be permitted starting with the 2006 harvest. |
=SANGIOVESE= The predominant grape of Chianti, Sangiovese, is
influenced by the climate and terrain in which it is grown. Sandier soils are said
to cause the wines to be more floral in aroma. Limestone terrain makes for a wine
with a more intensely berryish quality. Volcanic soils (tufo) are
said to contribute an almost tobacco-like quality to Sangiovese.
=GOVERNO= This is an old method, not as common today as decades
ago, where the winemaker would add some dried grapes (usually the variety was the
Colorino) to the fermented or partially fermented Chianti. This would add some
strength to the Chianti. It reminds me of the "ripasso" process used by
producers of Amarone and Valpolicella in the Veneto. I've read that Ruffino still
employs the governo process, but can't confirm this at this moment.
=CHIANTI REGIONS= You'll find wine labeled simply
"Chianti", the most general designation, is often used for wines of modest
alcohol or meant for immediate consumption. Wines from a specific area, located
between Florence and Siena, is entitled to the designation "Chianti Classico" if
the wines meet certain standards. There's a consortium which promotes the
"Classico" wines, quite effectively. The "rest" of Chianti
includes Montalbano (west of Florence and including the DOC of "Carmignano"),
Colli Fiorentini (just north of the Classico zone around Florence), Colli Senesi
(a fragmented region near Siena and environs) , Colli Aretini (near Arezzo), Colline
Pisane (Pisa area), Colline Pistoiesi (near Pistoia, west of Florence, east of Lucca), and
Rufina (a bit north and east of Florence).
=THE BLACK ROOSTER= The Consorzio of Chianti Classico, with an historic black
rooster symbol (called the Gallo Nero) has been effective in promoting the wines of its
members. However, not all the estates in the region continue membership with this
group. As a result, some very fine producers, Antinori, Ruffino, Isole e Olena and
Monsanto (to name 4 prominent wineries), no longer have the "black rooster"
stickers on their bottles of Chianti.
This consorzio was sued, incidentally, by the Gallo Winery and lost the right
to use the words "Gallo Nero" in publicizing their organization and its
wines!
Other Famous Tuscan
Denominazione |
| BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO |
Using the "Brunello" clone of Sangiovese, these wines
come from Montalcino, south of Chianti. The aging requirements are changing, here,
thankfully. Four years in wood was too long in most vintages for the
production of exceptional quality wines. The minimum was reduced to
three-and-a-half years and now is, currently, two years in wood and four
months in bottle. High prices are normal and, sometimes, justified. It takes an
exceptional vintage to make good Brunello, so while we're usually not fans of vintage
charts, if you're alone in the woods in buying Brunello, go by the book. Or come see
me.
Brunello producers, by the way, can add 17.6% of Brunello from another
vintage to "correct" a wine.
In April of 2008 a number of estates are under
investigation for incorporating other, un-permitted varieties into their
wines. It will be interesting to see how this all works out. |
| CARMIGNANO |
Wines of this small area have typically included a small
percentage of Cabernet. |
| MONTECARLO |
Red and white wines made near Lucca. |
| MORELLINO di SCANSANO |
From near Grosseto near the coast, this red is sometimes referred to as baby
Brunello, but I find these more similar to sturdy Chianti. An area of improving
quality, so worth keeping an eye out for these. Many producers from other parts of
Tuscany are investing in vineyards here. |
| POMINO |
From the Rufina region of Chianti, reds are Sangiovese-based and
usually have some Cabernet, while whites are Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay-based, watered
down with some Trebbiano. |
| ROSSO di MONTALCINO |
A red wine from Montalcino, not subject to the minimum (extended)
aging requirements for Brunello. |
| VERNACCIA di SAN GIMIGNANO |
Made in the area surrounding the walled city of San Gimignano, the
grape is Vernaccia. Much improved over the past decade. |
VIN SANTO
VIN SANTO DEL CHIANTI
VIN SANTO DEL CHIANTI CLASSICO
VIN SANTO DI MONTEPULCIANO |
Made from Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes, typically, which are left
on straw mats to dry. The wine is aged in attic-top conditions in small barrels.
Typically the best are rather sweet and, often, a bit oxidized. Got biscotti? |
| VINO NOBILE di MONTEPULCIANO |
Like the wines of Montalcino, this is made in southern Toscana.
The grape is Sangiovese, but takes the name Prugnolo Gentile. It's
said by some the grapes are identical, while others tell you Prugnolo
Gentile is but a "clone" of Sangiovese. Some fine wines
here and often a fair bit of tannin. |
| SUPER-TUSCANS |
This category allows each winery to make a special wine without
the traditional shackles of old-time rules and regulations.
The first "table wine" of Tuscany was SASSICAIA, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet
Franc blend made in the western region of Bolgheri.
Some producers make "Super-Tuscans" of Sangiovese, predominantly, while other
wineries make wines exclusively of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. There are now
Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Syrahs, Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Grigios coming from Tuscany. |
| OTHER DENOMINAZIONE |
ANSONICA COSTA DELL'ARGENTARIO
BIANCO DELL'EMPOLESE
BIANCO DELLA VALDINIEVOLE
BIANCO DI PITIGLIANO
BIANCO PISANO DI SAN TORPÈ
CANDIA DEI COLLI APUANI
CAPALBIO
COLLINE LUCCHESI
CORTONA
ELBA
MONTEREGIO DI MASSA MARITTIMA
MONTESCUDAIO
ORCIA
PARRINA
SANT'ANTIMO
SOVANA
VAL D'ARBIA
VALDICHIANA
VAL DI CORNIA
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Some Tuscan Wineries We Like:
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PIANCORNELLO
This
is a relatively new estate, founded in 1990 by Silvana Pieri. The
property comprises just 10 hectares of vineyards and they're only making
about 20,000 bottles annually.
The first wines we've tasted have been marvelous.
We had an amazingly good 2002 Rosso di Montalcino. Obviously, they
declassified their Brunello to produce this wine, though a small amount of
the heavy-hitter was made in this difficult vintage.
Their Brunello wines are excellent. We have the 1998 and 1999 vintages
in stock. The 1998 is pretty much ready-to-drink. There's a
woodsy, tobacco, cigar-box element to this vintage. Nicely developed,
this is very fine now. The 1999 Brunello is perhaps the more
outstanding wine for the long haul, though if you give it an hour or two in
the decanter tonight, you'll certainly find a very fine wine. The 1999
will probably reach its peak in 5-8 years. More dark fruit notes to
the 1999 than in the 1998.
The 2001 Riserva is currently in the shop. This was excellent when we first
tasted it and even more impressive now that it's had a bit of bottle
aging. The wine shows the cedary, woodsy notes we associate with
Piancornello. The fruit is deep and bright...nicely cherryish with
some dark fruit elements, too. I find the wine quite drinkable now,
though it will certainly cellar handsomely for another decade
(well-stored).
I tasted their 2003 and was pleasantly surprised. While many wines
from this hot vintage as bland and unfocused, the Piancornello captured
the house style, showing marvelous berry fruit and a lovely cedary
tone. Very fine! It's not yet arrived in our market, but I
tasted it in Italy in April of 2008.

- Claudio Monaci in his cellar.

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Currently in stock:
2001 PIANCORNELLO Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $84.99


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VECCHIE TERRE di MONTEFILI
This
little estate is located about a ten minute drive west of Greve in
Chianti. It's a bit isolated, but the property is beautiful and it
seems to be ideally situated for producing great Chianti.
I visited here many years ago, traveling with a California winemaker who
was interested in learning more about Italian varietals. The wines
of Vecchie Terre di Montefili were well-regarded, but production was very
small at the time and the wines were much sought-after. We tasted
good wines, but had no chance to buy these since they were rather
fashionable.
Now I'm amused that so many years later the estate is still
making some excellent wines and, now that the novelty has worn off, this
terrific Chianti is available at a very attractive price.
The property goes back hundreds of years and it was, back around 1200, part of
the Badia di Passignano (a label owned today by the Antinori family).
Montefili is today owned by the Acuti family, who purchased the estate in
1979. Their home was in Prato and I suspect this was to be the
weekend "get-away" retreat. Instead, it's turned into a
modest-sized business with a world-wide reputation!
They have about 13.5 hectares of vines and make something close to 65,000
bottles annually. Winemaker Tommaso Paglione (he's the husband of Maria
Acuti) says they're working towards biodynamic farming.
Critics tend to be wowed by their proprietary wine called Bruno di Rocca, a
Cabernet blended with Sangiovese. It's usually a rather handsome
wine. Anfiteatro is a French oak-aged wine of Sangiovese. They make
a curious white, blending Chardonnay with Sauvignon Blanc and a small percentage
of Gewürztraminer.
But we love Toscana for its Chianti wines and this is a good one! It's
entirely Sangiovese with NO Cabernet Sauvignon and NO Merlot. ((I
periodically say to producers from Tuscany who blend Bordeaux varieties into
their Chianti, "You know, I've never heard from a Bordeaux vintner "We
blend a small amount of Sangiovese into our Pauillac..."))
The 2004 Vecchie Terre di Montefili Chianti Classico is just that,
"classic." If you're a fan of typically-Italian wines, please
put a bottle of this on your dinner table soon! It's offered at a great
price and it's a wonderful cherryish, snappy version of Chianti. The wine
is medium-bodied and nicely balanced for immediate drinking, yet we think it has
5 to 8 years of good cellaring potential. Pair it with grilled or roasted
meats, if you like, or a savory roasted chicken. Impressive!
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Currently in stock: 2004 VECCHIE TERRE di MONTEFILI
$19.99

Tommaso Paglione shows off their fermentation cellar.

The large Slavonian oak cask in the background is used to mature the Chianti
Classico.

The old label and today's design.

Maria Acuti and Tommaso Paglione
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- FATTORIA DI FELSINA
This property
is, without a doubt, one of the top Tuscan wineries. Managed by Giuseppe Mazzocolin,
Felsina's wines have been amongst the top Chianti wines for more than a decade. Not
only is their Chianti Classico a top wine, but the special "riserva" called
"Rancia" is outstanding. As if this weren't enough, Mazzocolin makes a
Super-Tuscan, but this is not "tainted" with Cabernet or Merlot.
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- The estate comprises about 122 hectares of vines and they make about
450,000 bottles annually. Sangiovese is the focus here, though they do
make Cabernet and Pinot Nero along with a simple Tuscan white and some Vin
Santo.
I was pleasantly surprised when we visited the estate...the dedication to
"Chianti" and "Sangiovese" is remarkable. You
might think this is not unusual, but when so many estates are hell-bent to
get high scores from wine writers who measure "size" and power
above everything else, finding pure Sangiovese is a delight.



In the cellars at Felsina...very traditional!

Lots of Tuscan vintners use this 'system' to keep their
barrels and botte filled to the top with wine.

More modern conditions are found in their cellar full of barriques.

The basic Chianti Classico from Felsina is routinely a good
bottle of wine. It's entirely Sangiovese and offers the snappy structure
of good Sangiovese. It's a medium-bodied wine...not heavy or
woody.
They have a couple of reserve-level Chianti wines. The basic Riserva is
entirely Sangiovese and spends more than a year in Slavonian oak and French oak
barriques. The "Cru Rancia" Riserva is also 100% Sangiovese, but
this seems to have some of the same elements as the regular Reserva, but with
the 'volume' cranked up all the way. It's got a bit more wood and shows
more brown spice notes. There's also a mildly floral aspect to the
Sangiovese. The 2004 is delicious now and I suspect it will mature nicely
for another 5 to 8 years.
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- Currently available: 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva $26.99
2004 Chianti Classico Riserva "Rancia" $39.99
1997 Fontalloro $65.99 (last bottle)
2005 Chianti Classico $19.99

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VIGLIANO
We don't get
too excited by so-called "Super Tuscan" wines since most of them
are merely an effort to extract a large sum of cash from someone's
wallet. But we tasted a wine from the Vigliano estate which was not
only attractive in the glass, but its price tag was commensurate with its
quality.
Vigliano is a little 'town', if you want to call it that, a short drive from
Firenze. It's just a bit south-west from the big city and here you'll
find maybe a dozen homes and some rolling hillsides carpeted with vines.
The Marchionni family has owned the "Vigliano" property since
1978, cultivating about 6 hectares of vineyards. Their L'Erta wine is
remarkably good...a blend of Sangiovese Grosso, the clone used typically in
Montalcino, and Cabernet Sauvignon. You can actually sense both grapes
in this wine, rather than simply having Cabernet dominate. It's
matured in some nice oak, too, so there's a woodsy, cedary undertone to the
wine.
L'Erta is delightful now and I suspect this will actually cellar handsomely for a
number of years, maybe 3-5. If you're grilling a steak and want
something to pair with your rendition of bistecca Fiorentina, then
consider a bottle of this!
Currently in stock: VIGLIANO 2004 L'ERTA $37.99
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ISOLE E OLENA
Paolo de Marchi
is "Mister Chianti", a dedicated winemaker who is passionate about making
honest-to-goodness "Chianti". The property is in the northern part of the
"Classico" zone and "Isole" is a good name for this isolated
vineyard. They used to sell the production in bulk, but today, for the most part,
bottle their estate grown wines.
Chianti Classico is outstanding and usually highly
regarded, especially by those who appreciate Chianti. De Marchi does not make a
"Riserva", for example, but offers a wine called "Cepparello", a
Super-Tuscan made entirely of Sangiovese and matured in French oak.
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Paolo also produces a Cabernet, Chardonnay and Syrah of note. Our understanding of
the white wine production is that he had purchased Cabernet vines from a nursery.
After some years, the vines produced some fruit, but the grapes maintained their greenish
color well into August. Paolo became concerned that there was something wrong and,
after some investigation, found there had been an error in the shipment and his
"Cabernet" vines were, in fact, Chardonnay!
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Recently installed wooden fermentation tanks...
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Wine which will become "Chianti Classico" with the proper
aging.
The Chianti Classico sometimes
includes a bit of Syrah and the wine is marvelously cherryish in fruit with a hint of a
spicy note. The 2002 was a bit weak, but the 2003 is a nicely
balanced, medium-weight red wine. You won't find Chianti to be dark,
robust red unless the wine has been fortified with Cabernet (or
worse). The Isole Chianti is typically cherryish in fruit with wood
not being particularly noticeable. The 2003 is a medium-bodied red
and drinkable immediately. It will probably cellar nicely for three
years, or so.
We tasted several bottles of the 2004 and are confounded as to why the
wine isn't better. It should be a really good wine, but bottles
we've opened were simply "off," showing a funky, odd aroma.
I tasted the 2005 in Italy and it's rather representative of the vintage,
a pleasant, nicely drinkable, short-term wine.

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Chardonnays have been good here. The 2003 is toasty and creamy,
moderately woodsy on the nose and palate. It's very nice and
attractively priced. We have found this to be one of Italy's top
Chardonnays and comparable, if not superior, to a good many Californian
examples.
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Cepparello comes from some older vines on the Isole e Olena property and is a special
selection. French oak aged. A few bottles of 1998 are in stock
for the moment.
Syrah is highly-regarded in Italy and for good reason: the wine is
comparable to good Rhône Valley wines. Not many bottles of this
arrive in California. The 2001 is very good...smoky, showing some of
the hickory notes we like in French Syrah wines.
Vin Santo is exceptional here. It is quite sweet, because they actually pay
attention to drying the grapes and pressing out the juice at just the right moment.
It is not inexpensive, but compared to other top producers, quite fairly priced.
- Currently available: 2003 Chianti Classico $17.99
(750ml) Sold Out
2003 Chianti (375ml) $10.99
- 1998 Cepparello $49.99
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2003 Chardonnay $25.99
2001 Syrah $39.99
Vin Santo (half bottles) $32.99
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- ANTINORI
The Antinori family have a number of wineries in Italy, not to
mention concerns in other parts of the world. Buying a bottle of Antinori wine is
rather like purchasing a Robert Mondavi wine--even if the wine is not extraordinary, it
is, at the very least, a well-made product and of sound quality.
The Antinori's have discontinued their basic "Chianti
Classico," feeling that the name Antinori is, apparently, more of a
guarantee of quality than the designation "Chianti
Classico." This will be interesting!
Will Antinori
customers continue to buy Antinori or will they migrate to other Chianti
Classico producers? Tuscan wine industry people are watching this
development with great interest.
Many contend that Antinori is
unwilling to pay the price for good quality Sangiovese in the Chianti
Classico zone. Antinori was quoted in a San Francisco Chronicle
article as saying the quality of fruit available on the grape market is not
especially good.
(We heard recently that their contract with a good grower had expired
recently and this precipitated the Antinori's decision to make this
change). Time will tell on this issue, but it is a bit sad to
see the names Antinori and Chianti Classico not as married as they once
were!
We tasted first vintages of their Chianti-replacement and found it to be as good as
Antinori's recent Chianti Classico vintages. This is not a bad wine,
but it's not Sangiovese at its zenith, either. That may be due to all
the other grape varieties included in the blend. It's got 20%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 5% Syrah. The 2003 is pretty much
the same, despite the wildly different vintage conditions. It's a
lovely red wine, more "modern" in style and less easy to identify
as a Tuscan red.
"Solaia"
is the Antinori's version of their cousin's "Sassicaia", a Cabernet-based red
which in some vintages rivals the best of Bordeaux and California. The wine has been of
superlative quality for many years. In December of 2000 an influential American wine
publication tabbed Solaia as its top wine (most "exciting" wine, actually).
This is good news for the Antinori family, but bad news for wine drinkers.
After that, everybody and his cousin (not to mention the Aunt and Uncle) wants Solaia.
Prices have doubled as those who actually have some bottles ask a fortune for this
newly-minted "gold coin." What used to be merely hard-to-get is now
some sort of ultra status symbol, as well as being a "mere" bottle of wine.
There's an
interesting publication in Europe called "Il Mio Vino." I've
seen it in Italian (of course) and in German. Each issue features the
"debunking" of a high-priced, highly-regarded wine. One
issue I picked up in the Spring of 2007 chose to spotlight Solaia 2003 in
their "Grande Delusione" series. My command of Italian is
not perfect, but I found I agreed with many of their descriptions of the
wine (lots of vanilla, oak, moderately tannic...) but those adjectives are
why I like the wine. At the end of their article, they claimed to have
tasted Solaia alongside an inexpensive bottle of Bordeaux, one costing less
than 10% the price of a bottle of Antinori's wine. They claimed the
Bordeaux was better.
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Vin Santo is also quite good here.
Though not a Tuscan wine, but from neighboring
Umbria, we wish to point out their "Cervaro della Sala", a barrel-fermented
blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto which is one of the best Italian white wines.
Experiments with Pinot Noir have yet to hit the mark, but their Umbrian dessert wine
called Muffato is outstanding.
Never say
Piero Antinori is late for the train. He's one of the few
Chianti producers to also have a property in Montalcino called "Pian delle
Vigne." A recent acquisition, this is situated nearly four miles south of
Montalcino. And there is a small train station on the property! The first
vintage was the fine 1995. Medium-bodied, Bob found this to be quite to his taste.
I think it's a pretty good start, but will venture to guess succeeding vintages
will be even better as the Antinori winemakers become more familiar with the viticulture
and winemaking in this region. The 1998 vintage is quite nice, one I'd
put in the same "very good" category as previous vintages.
You can drink it now, if you like, and it ought to cellar well for a few
more years. The 2001 is their current offering. I find it
acceptable, but not as fine as other Brunello wines we have from 2001.
We can special order this for you, if you like.
Pèppoli is an estate which Antinori acquired in 1985. It's in the Chianti Classico
area with vineyards facing east-northeast. Pèppoli is made in a more fruity
style than the Riserva or Tenute Marchese Antinori Chiantis. This may be the best
vintage of Pèppoli to date...pretty nice, actually. They add a
bit of Merlot and Syrah to the Sangiovese and it's not made to be aged, but
to be consumed when purchased.
- Currently available:
- 2003 Villa Antinori Toscana Rosso (Chianti
Replacement) List $24 SALE $17.99
2001 Tentute Marchese (List $30) SALE $27.99
(last bottles)
2004 Pèppoli Chianti Classico (List $25) 21.99 (sale)
2004 Tignanello 750ml Sold Out
2004 SOLAIA Sale $199.99
1998 Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino Sold Out
1998 Guado al Tasso $99.99 (only a bottle or two remain)
1999 Guado al Tasso $85.99
- Vin Santo (list $35) SALE $29.99
(500ml)
Aleatico (sweet dessert wine) No Longer being imported...
Muffato della Sala $44.99 (500ml)
2005 CERVARO della SALA (Chardonnay/Grechetto blend from Umbria) (List
$48)
SALE $42.99
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A vineyard site Antinori, I was told, will soon be
planting in 2008.
The piles of rocks will be scattered throughout the vineyard allowing for
reflective heat for the vines, fewer weeds and they can show visitors what a
wonderfully rocky "terroir" they have.
I will post an "after" photo when I next visit Toscana.
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- TERUZZI & PUTHOD
The
winery name is really "Fattoria Ponte a Rondolino" but the brand name takes the
names of the couple which owns the place, Enrico Teruzzi and Carmen Puthod.
They
have quite a thriving business, especially well-known for their Vernaccia-based white wine
from San Gimignano called "Terre di Tufi." It's a a barrel-fermented white
wine of great fame. The tall, slender bottle has a tiny label on one side and this
is known to some as "the postage stamp label" as it resembles a stamp.
We've been fans of this wine for many years and it was made originally for Signor Teruzzi
who noted that he really didn't care if anybody liked the wine...he liked it and that was
good enough! Well, today nearly every winery in the area makes a copy of Terre di
Tufi. Now the wine incorporates some Malvasia, Vermentino and Chardonnay, so the blend is
unique and cannot be duplicated. Vernaccia comprises about 80% of the blend,
however.
Enrico Teruzzi arrived in San Gimignano in 1974. His wife, Carmen, was a prima
ballerina at La Scala in Milano. They had the (at that time) radical idea of having
temperature-controlled fermentation tanks, one piece to the puzzle of their wonderful
wine. French oak barrels provide another piece. Good vineyards and careful
vinification are other parts of this equation. If you've never tasted this wine, you
ought to try a bottle as it's a benchmark for Tuscan white wine.
Currently available: 2004 "Terre di Tufi" $17.99 (750ml)
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LA GERLA
- This small estate in Montalcino has periodically made some pretty nice
Sangiovese wines. The vineyards had been owned, apparently, by
Biondi-Santi. Perhaps the Biondi-Santi people didn't like the fruit from
this vineyard because the wines one can make here ARE drinkable
during one's lifetime (Biondi-Santi wines are of such high acidity, they are
difficult to appreciate in their youth and, sometimes, even for a generation
or two or three after!). Sergio Rossi had been working as an
economist before trading his briefcase for a wine barrel. He has about
9 hectares of his own and rents another hectare to make the La Gerla
wines.
Vittorio Fiore is the consulting winemaker. They have great reverence
for Brunello. Modest yields in the vineyards produce more flavorful
fruit. Their 1999 Brunello is a good example of this wine, but it's
not the hugely-oaked style that gets rave reviews from critics tasting a big
flight of wines. If you buy a bottle, please give it a few hours in a
decanter to allow it to more fully blossom so you'll get your money's worth
from this wine. I find this vintage superior to the 1997 which we
liked, too.
My favorite
wine from La Gerla has been a French oak-aged proprietary red they called
"Birba." The Italian word for "scoundrel" is
"Birba," so I suppose this is Rossi's little joke, though he's
certainly neither a scoundrel nor a scallywag. The wine is entirely
Sangiovese from vineyards which could produce "Brunello di
Montalcino." Birba is matured for a shorter period of time and in
smaller cooperage, a portion of which is new. The small size of
cooperage means the wine develops more quickly. A few recent vintages
have been really good. We do not have this in the shop currently,
awaiting one that strikes our fancy.
Currently in stock:
1999 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Sold Out
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