ITALY:  TOSCANA

If you ask most people to name a wine from Italy, they'll probably come up with "Chianti".    It's the quintessential Tuscan wine, to be sure, though, in terms of price and prestige, denominazione such as "Brunello di Montalcino", "Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" along with a category of proprietary wines, "Super Tuscans" (as they're called) far exceed the humble Chianti.

Chianti is, typically, a blended red wine.  The "Chianti" region covers territory in the Provinces of Florence, Siena, Arezzo, Pistoia and Pisa.  The predominant grape is the Sangiovese.   Other varieties play a minor role, the laws governing the production of Chianti having changed over the last decade or so. Originally, the laws called for Chianti to be a blend of Sangiovese, with another red variety called Canaiolo, along with Malvasia and Trebbiano (white grapes!) and perhaps some Malvasia Nera,  Colorino or Mammolo. 

Bound by tradition, it's only in the past ten or twenty years that we've seen real advances in the overall quality of red wines from Tuscany.   

Some producers thumbed their noses at the law.  "Let them come here, see my Trebbiano vines, taste my wine and tell me I'm doing something wrong," we were told by one winery owner many years ago.  This producer did not, of course, water down the Chianti with Trebbiano.    

Other estates would purchase Cabernet or Merlot and include this in their Chianti wine.  We've visited some producers and, after tasting, are not entirely certain the wines come from vineyards near the winery.  The name of Chianti and the chance to cash in with Super-Tuscan type wines is, apparently, an enticing opportunity for some.

The law has finally changed and producers are allowed a certain amount of flexibility in producing their wines.  Today a Chianti might be 100% Sangiovese.  While the law used to require Trebbiano and Malvasia at a minimum of 10%, today there's a maximum of 6% of these varieties.  Starting with the 2006 vintage, no white grapes will be allowed as part of a Chianti Classico wine.  There's also a 20% maximum of "other" varieties allowed and some estates use Syrah, Cabernet or Merlot to make their particular Chianti blend.  A traditional red grape of Chianti, the Canaiolo, is now limited to a 10% maximum.

But while the laws are wonderfully written in Italy, following them is something different altogether...right, Carlo?

We've heard allegations of shenanigans on the part of some producers.  And Italy does seem to have a wine scandal ongoing at all times.

We've heard about wine being shipped in bulk from Argentina to Spain and from Spain over to Tuscany where it suddenly takes on Italian "citizenship."  We've heard of wines from Sicilia, Puglia or Sardegna being used to "fortify" Tuscan wines (and other Northern reds, for that matter)...

There was a Tuscan producer whom we felt "counterfeited" his own wine!  He had a lovely Chianti and he used the same label for some wine we're certain was from elsewhere which he sold to a US chain store at a much lower price.  

Many estates these days now make a "prestigious" bottling of some sort.  Sometimes it's from an old parcel of vines or it may be from their best vineyard site...a "reserve" quality wine.  This is all well and good, except that often times in doing so, a vintners "robs" their flagship wine of its foundation.  What a pity to make a tiny quantity of something at the expense of the wine for which the estate might have been famous.  

=SANGIOVESE= The predominant grape of Chianti, Sangiovese,  is influenced by the climate and terrain in which it is grown.  Sandier soils are said to cause the wines to be more floral in aroma.  Limestone terrain makes for a wine with a more intensely berryish quality.   Volcanic soils (tufo) are said to contribute an almost tobacco-like quality to Sangiovese. 

=GOVERNO=     This is an old method, not as common today as decades ago, where the winemaker would add some dried grapes (usually the variety was the Colorino) to the fermented or partially fermented Chianti.  This would add some strength to the Chianti.  It reminds me of the "ripasso" process used by producers of Amarone and Valpolicella in the Veneto.  I've read that Ruffino still employs the governo process, but can't confirm this at this moment.

=CHIANTI REGIONS=  You'll find wine labeled simply "Chianti", the most general designation, is often used for wines of modest alcohol or meant for immediate consumption.  It also might be used for Chianti made from grapes grown in two (or more) sub-zones.

Wines from a specific area, located between Florence and Siena, is entitled to the designation "Chianti Classico" if the wines meet certain standards.  There's a consortium which promotes the "Classico" wines, quite effectively.  

The "rest" of Chianti includes

There's another designation, just to keep you on your toes:
Chianti Superiore.  This is not produced within the Chianti Classico zone.  It will come from  Chianti vineyards within the provinces of Arezzo, Florence, Pisa, Pistoia, Prato and Siena.
If the wine is labeled as "Chianti Superiore," you will not find its particular denominazione, such as "Colli Senesi" or "Rufina," for example.  

For a Chianti Superiore, the wine must be at least 75% Sangiovese and have no more than 10% Canaiolo.  It may have as much as 10% white grapes (Trebbiano Toscano and/or Malvasia del Chianti).  There's also an allowance of 20% "other" varieties.  

=THE BLACK ROOSTER= The Consorzio of Chianti Classico, with an historic black rooster symbol (called the Gallo Nero) has been effective in promoting the wines of its members.  However, not all the estates in the region continue membership with this group.  
At one time, Chianti Classico wines from Antinori, Ruffino, Isole e Olena and Monsanto (to name 4 prominent wineries) did not have the black rooster symbol on their bottles.  Today, though, you'll find the symbol on Chianti Classico wines, even if some estates begrudgingly use these labels.

This consorzio was sued, incidentally, by the Gallo Winery and lost the right to use the words "Gallo Nero" in publicizing the organization and its wines! 

Some Tuscan Wineries We Like:

PIANCORNELLO

This is a relatively new estate, founded in 1990 by Silvana Pieri.  The property comprises just 10 hectares of vineyards and they're only making about 20,000 bottles annually.  

The first wines we've tasted have been marvelous.  

We had an amazingly good 2002 Rosso di Montalcino.  Obviously, they declassified their Brunello to produce this wine, though a small amount of the heavy-hitter was made in this difficult vintage.  

We view most "Rosso di Montalcino" wines as anything but "baby" Brunello and few are, frankly, as interesting as really good Chianti wine.  Piancornello, on the other hand, makes a dynamite Rosso di Montalcino and it's not baby Brunello but it is as good as really fine Chianti Classico wine.    The 2007 is stellar and it's really nice to see a customer buy a bottle one day and return soon afterwards for more bottles.  The wine shows a nicely woodsy character along with good cherryish Sangiovese.

 

The 2003  Brunello comes from a hotter-than-hell vintage and we did not buy most 2003s as a result.  But Claudio did a stellar job with the wine and this estate made a very showy bottle.

The 2004 is perhaps a bit more elegant...easily one of our favorite wines of the vintage.  This estate, to our taste, simply is an elite producer.  The 2004 is a medium-full bodied Brunello with fine acidity and modest levels of tannin.  Sure, it's possible to cellar this for a decade, if you like.  But it's also impressive as a young wine, especially paired with red meats.

Claudio Monaci in his cellar in 2005...

 

 

 

Currently in stock:  
2004 PIANCORNELLO Brunello di Montalcino  $59.99
2003 PIANCORNELLO Brunello di Montalcino SALE $63.99 (last bottle)
2007 PIANCORNELLO Rosso di Montalcino Sold Out
2004 PIANCORNELLO Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (List $85)  SALE $63.99

Claudio's Dad, Claudio and Claudio's Zia (aunt)...

In the cellar...Piancornello is matured both in large cooperage and small French oak.


A bottle of 2004 Brunello was handsomely paired with roasted rabbit and Tuscan white beans.

FATTORIA DI FELSINA

This property is, without a doubt, one of the top Tuscan wineries.  Managed by Giuseppe Mazzocolin, Felsina's wines have been amongst the top Chianti wines for more than a decade.  Not only is their Chianti Classico a top wine, but the special "riserva" called "Rancia" is outstanding.  As if this weren't enough, Mazzocolin makes a Super-Tuscan, but this is not "tainted" with Cabernet or Merlot.  

 

The estate comprises about 122 hectares of vines and they make about 450,000 bottles annually.  Sangiovese is the focus here, though they do make Cabernet and Pinot Nero along with a simple Tuscan white and some Vin Santo.  

I was pleasantly surprised when we visited the estate...the dedication to "Chianti" and "Sangiovese" is remarkable.  You might think this is not unusual, but when so many estates are hell-bent to get high scores from wine writers who measure "size" and power above everything else, finding pure Sangiovese is a delight.

In the cellars at Felsina...very traditional!

Lots of Tuscan vintners use this 'system' to keep their barrels and botte filled to the top with wine.


More modern conditions are found in their cellar full of barriques.

 

The basic Chianti Classico from Felsina is routinely a good bottle of wine.  It's entirely Sangiovese and offers the snappy structure of good Sangiovese.  It's a medium-bodied wine...not heavy or woody.  2007 is the current release...a mighty good vintage, drinkable now and we suspect it will develop a bit more over the next couple of years in bottle...

They have a couple of reserve-level Chianti wines.  The basic Riserva is entirely Sangiovese and spends more than a year in Slavonian oak and French oak barriques.  The "Cru Rancia" Riserva is also 100% Sangiovese, but this seems to have some of the same elements as the regular Reserva, but with the 'volume' cranked up all the way.  It's got a bit more wood and shows more brown spice notes.  There's also a mildly floral aspect to the Sangiovese.  The 2006 is delicious now and I suspect it will mature nicely for another 5 to 8 years.

Fontalloro is a magnificent Sangiovese which truly deserves the designation "Super Tuscan."  It is, for our tastes, routinely "super."  The wine comes from three vineyard sites.  One is, in fact, called Fontalloro and it lies within the Chianti Classico area.  The other two sites, Casalino and Arcidossino, are situated within the Chianti Colli Senesi denominazione.  The wine is 100% Sangiovese and is matured, typically, for about a year and a half in French oak.  Yet they seem to have a fine hand in making this wine, since the oak is always detectable, but it's not center stage.  The star of the show is definitely the Sangiovese.  We currently have the 2005 and it's delicious.

Maestro Raro is a wine made of Cabernet Sauvignon.

We've usually been a bit critical of Tuscan vintners who are suddenly embracing international varieties, especially when this is at the expense of their own local grapes.  
Sure, Sassicaia used to be a grand wine...Ornellaia IS a terrific, if expensive bottle.  Does the world need more Cabernet and/or Merlot?  

I had not tasted the Felsina Cabernet in a while and on a whim I bought a bottle of the 2006.  
I may have to rethink my position on this.

Felsina's Cabernet Sauvignon production began when they grafted Cabernet on to existing vines of Sangiovese, Trebbiano and Malvasia.  The wine spends about a year and a half in oak and the 2006 is phenomenal.  It is medium-full bodied on the palate, has a fantastic nose and is beautifully drinkable now with food.

The 2006 Maestro Raro can be cellared, too, if you like, but pairing it with some grilled steaks or a prime rib roast (as we did) allows the wine to really shine.  It may be compared to any of the famous wines of Bolgheri, not to mention (but I will anyway) Napa or Bordeaux.  It's at a special sale price presently, too.

 

Vin Santo is exceptional.  It's Malvasia and Trebbiano with 20% Sangiovese...aged for something like seven years, this shows nutty and apricot-like notes.  It's sweet, but not sticky...very fine.

Currently available:  2007 Chianti Classico $23.99 (750ml)
2007 Chianti Classico $12.99 (375ml)
2006 Chianti Classico Riserva $28.99
2006 Chianti Classico Riserva "Rancia" $47.99 (750ml)
2006 Chianti Classico Riserva "Rancia" $99.99 (magnum)
2005 Fontalloro  $47.99
2006 Maestro Raro (Cabernet Sauvignon) List $55  Sold Out
VIN SANTO  Sale $39.99 (375ml)

ISOLE E OLENA

Paolo de Marchi is "Mister Chianti", a dedicated winemaker who is passionate about making honest-to-goodness "Chianti".  The property is in the northern part of the "Classico" zone and "Isole" is a good name for this isolated vineyard.  They used to sell the production in bulk, but today, for the most part, bottle their estate grown wines.  

Chianti Classico is outstanding and usually highly regarded, especially by those who appreciate Chianti.  De Marchi does not make a "Riserva", for example, but offers a wine called "Cepparello", a Super-Tuscan made entirely of Sangiovese and matured in French oak. 

Paolo also produces a Cabernet, Chardonnay and Syrah of note.  Our understanding of the white wine production is that he had purchased Cabernet vines from a nursery.  After some years, the vines produced some fruit, but the grapes maintained their greenish color well into August.  Paolo became concerned that there was something wrong and, after some investigation, found there had been an error in the shipment and his "Cabernet" vines were, in fact, Chardonnay! 

 

Recently installed wooden fermentation tanks...

 

Wine which will become "Chianti Classico" with the proper aging.

The Chianti Classico sometimes includes a bit of Syrah and the wine can be marvelously cherryish in fruit with a hint of a spicy note.   We skipped a few vintages, though.  We tasted some bottles of 2004 and they just didn't seem right...and then we later found out there was significant variation, supposedly, in the bottlings that vintage.  We skipped it.  The 2005 seemed a bit diluted and less of a wine than we have come to expect.  The 2006, though, seems to be back on track and showing nicely.  Medium-bodied, cherries and a touch of a brushy note....drinkable now and it ought to cellar well for some years.

 

 

 

Cepparello comes from some older vines on the Isole e Olena property and is a special selection.  French oak aged.  A few bottles of 2005 are in stock for the moment.  This is a super wine and we think it and the 2005 Fontalloro from Felsina are both excellent examples of "Super Tuscans."

Syrah is highly-regarded in Italy and for good reason:  the wine is comparable to good Rhône Valley wines.  Not many bottles of this arrive in California.  We don't have one presently, though.

The 2008 Chardonnay is a delight.  Bob Gorman says it's different from many Italian Chardonnays in that it "tastes Tuscan and it tastes like Isole e Olena."   We find the 2008 to be mildly oaked and showing some spice and pineapple-like notes.  It's a medium-full bodied wine...quite good.  Seafood pasta?  Risotto with shellfish, perhaps?   


Vin Santo is exceptional here.  It is quite sweet, because they actually pay attention to drying the grapes and pressing out the juice at just the right moment.   It is not inexpensive, but compared to other top producers, quite fairly priced.

Currently available:  2006 Chianti Classico (list $24) SALE $18.99 (750ml)
2006 Chianti (375ml)  $13.99
2005 Cepparello (list $70)  SALE $59.99
2008 Chardonnay $36.99
2001 Syrah Sold Out
Vin Santo (half bottles) $32.99  (last bottle at this price)

 

ARGIANO

The Argiano winery is owned by a member of the Marone-Cinzano family and has been run by the Countess Noemi since the early 1990s.  
I gather her brother runs the Col d'Orcia estate, another famous Montalcino winery.  And he was the president of the Montalcino consorzio until a few years ago.

When Noemi Marone-Cinzano took over this property, she hired the famous Giacomo Tachis, he of Antinori winemaking fame and acclaim, to consult for Argiano.  She also engaged the services of a young fellow whose uncle owned the Tenuta San Guido, producer of the Bolgheri red wine, Sassicaia.

The winery has made some good, solid wines over the years.  They took a bit of flak recently when the government was investigating whether or not their "Brunello di Montalcino" wine was, in fact, made entirely of Sangiovese or Brunello from the Montalcino region.  They were not alone in being investigated and finally they said, out of economic necessity, they needed to sell the wine and so Argiano came out with the wine under a different denominazione.  The wine was sold as an IGT appellation bottling.

The winemaker is a fellow with an interesting and complex background.  He's Hans Vinding-Diers of Danish heritage, though he was born in South Africa and spent a lot of time in Bordeaux at a modest chateau owned by his family.  Vinding-Diers is a proponent of biodynamic viticulture, though they don't make a big deal about this in selling Argiano wines.

He's got a nice touch with the Argiano wines and we've been fans of their Brunello for many years.

We recently tasted the 2005 and were pleasantly surprised to find such a substantial wine.  It's a medium-full-bodied red wine with red fruit aromas and hints of black cherries.  There's a mildly cedary undertone to the wine and it's quite drinkable now, despite its youth.  If you're grilling a bistecca Fiorentina or a simple rib-eye, this is a showy wine to put on the dinner table, especially set up by a light, non-oaked white wine.

Currently in stock:  2005 ARGIANO Brunello di Montalcino  (List $60) SALE $44.99

 

VECCHIE TERRE di MONTEFILI

This little estate is located about a ten minute drive west of Greve in Chianti.  It's a bit isolated, but the property is beautiful and it seems to be ideally situated for producing great Chianti.

I visited here many years ago, traveling with a California winemaker who was interested in learning more about Italian varietals.  The wines of Vecchie Terre di Montefili were well-regarded, but production was very small at the time and the wines were much sought-after.  We tasted good wines, but had no chance to buy these since they were rather fashionable.

Now I'm amused that so many years later the estate is still making some excellent wines and, now that the novelty has worn off,  this terrific Chianti is available at a very attractive price.

The property goes back hundreds of years and it was, back around 1200, part of the Badia di Passignano (a label owned today by the Antinori family).  Montefili is today owned by the Acuti family, who purchased the estate in 1979.   Their home was in Prato and I suspect this was to be the weekend "get-away" retreat.  Instead, it's turned into a modest-sized business with a world-wide reputation!

They have about 13.5 hectares of vines and make something close to 65,000 bottles annually.  Winemaker Tommaso Paglione (he's the husband of Maria Acuti) says they're working towards biodynamic farming.

Critics tend to be wowed by their proprietary wine called Bruno di Rocca, a Cabernet blended with Sangiovese.  It's usually a rather handsome wine.  Anfiteatro is a French oak-aged wine of Sangiovese.  They make a curious white, blending Chardonnay with Sauvignon Blanc and a small percentage of Gewürztraminer.  

But we love Toscana for its Chianti wines and this is a good one!  It's entirely Sangiovese with NO Cabernet Sauvignon and NO Merlot.  ((I periodically say to producers from Tuscany who blend Bordeaux varieties into their Chianti, "You know, I've never heard from a Bordeaux vintner "We blend a small amount of Sangiovese into our Pauillac..."))  

The 2004 Vecchie Terre di Montefili Chianti Classico is just that, "classic."  If you're a fan of typically-Italian wines, please put a bottle of this on your dinner table soon!  It's offered at a great price and it's a wonderful cherryish, snappy version of Chianti.  The wine is medium-bodied and nicely balanced for immediate drinking, yet we think it has 5 to 8 years of good cellaring potential.  Pair it with grilled or roasted meats, if you like, or a savory roasted chicken.  Impressive!

Currently in stock:  2004 VECCHIE TERRE di MONTEFILI Sold Out

Tommaso Paglione shows off their fermentation cellar.


The large Slavonian oak cask in the background is used to mature the Chianti Classico.


The old label and today's design.


Maria Acuti and Tommaso Paglione

 

 

ANTINORI

The Antinori family have a number of wineries in Italy, not to mention concerns in other parts of the world.  Buying a bottle of Antinori wine is rather like purchasing a Robert Mondavi wine--even if the wine is not extraordinary, it is, at the very least, a well-made product and of sound quality.  

 

 

The Antinori family is probably not proud of having offered wine with their name on it in a "fish" bottle. 
No...we do not have this available for sale.
Don't even ask.

 

The Antinori's have discontinued their basic "Chianti Classico," feeling that the name Antinori is, apparently, more of a guarantee of quality than the designation "Chianti Classico."  This will be interesting!  

Will Antinori customers continue to buy Antinori or will they migrate to other Chianti Classico producers?  Tuscan wine industry people are watching this development with great interest.  

Many contend that Antinori is unwilling to pay the price for good quality Sangiovese in the Chianti Classico zone.  Antinori was quoted in a San Francisco Chronicle article as saying the quality of fruit available on the grape market is not especially good.  

(We heard recently that their contract with a good grower had expired recently and this precipitated the Antinori's decision to make this change).  Time will tell on this issue, but it is a bit sad to see the names Antinori and Chianti Classico not as married as they once were!

We tasted first vintages of their Chianti-replacement and found it to be as good as Antinori's recent Chianti Classico vintages.  This is not a bad wine, but it's not Sangiovese at its zenith, either.  That may be due to all the other grape varieties included in the blend.   It's got 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 5% Syrah.  The 2003 is pretty much the same, despite the wildly different vintage conditions.  It's a lovely red wine, more "modern" in style and less easy to identify as a Tuscan red.



"Solaia" is the Antinori's version of their cousin's "Sassicaia", a Cabernet-based red which in some vintages rivals the best of Bordeaux and California. The wine has been of superlative quality for many years.  In December of 2000 an influential American wine publication tabbed Solaia as its top wine (most "exciting" wine, actually).   This is good news for the Antinori family, but bad news for wine drinkers.   After that,  everybody and his cousin (not to mention the Aunt and Uncle) wants Solaia.   Prices have doubled as those who actually have some bottles ask a fortune for this newly-minted "gold coin."    What used to be merely hard-to-get is now some sort of ultra status symbol, as well as being a "mere" bottle of wine.  

There's an interesting publication in Europe called "Il Mio Vino."  I've seen it in Italian (of course) and in German.  Each issue features the "debunking" of a high-priced, highly-regarded wine.  One issue I picked up in the Spring of 2007 chose to spotlight Solaia 2003 in their "Grande Delusione" series.  My command of Italian is not perfect, but I found I agreed with many of their descriptions of the wine (lots of vanilla, oak, moderately tannic...) but those adjectives are why I like the wine.  At the end of their article, they claimed to have tasted Solaia alongside an inexpensive bottle of Bordeaux, one costing less than 10% the price of a bottle of Antinori's wine.  They claimed the Bordeaux was better.

*************

Vin Santo is also quite good here.  

Though not a Tuscan wine, but from neighboring Umbria, we wish to point out their "Cervaro della Sala", a barrel-fermented blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto which is one of the best Italian white wines.  Experiments with Pinot Noir have yet to hit the mark, but their Umbrian dessert wine called Muffato is outstanding.

Never say Piero Antinori is late for the train.  He's one of the few Chianti producers to also have a property in Montalcino called "Pian delle Vigne."  A recent acquisition, this is situated nearly four miles south of Montalcino.  And there is a small train station on the property!  The first vintage was the fine 1995.  Medium-bodied, Bob found this to be quite to his taste.   I think it's a pretty good start, but will venture to guess succeeding vintages will be even better as the Antinori winemakers become more familiar with the viticulture and winemaking in this region.  The 1998 vintage is quite nice, one I'd put in the same "very good" category as previous vintages.  You can drink it now, if you like, and it ought to cellar well for a few more years.  The 2001 is their current offering.  I find it acceptable, but not as fine as other Brunello wines we have from 2001.  We can special order this for you, if you like.

Pèppoli is an estate which Antinori acquired in 1985.  It's in the Chianti Classico area with vineyards facing east-northeast.   Pèppoli is made in a more fruity style than the Riserva or Tenute Marchese Antinori Chiantis.  This may be the best vintage of Pèppoli  to date...pretty nice, actually.  They add a bit of Merlot and Syrah to the Sangiovese and it's not made to be aged, but to be consumed when purchased.

Currently available: 

2003 Villa Antinori Toscana Rosso (Chianti Replacement) List $24 SALE $17.99
2001 Tentute Marchese (List $30) SALE $27.99  (last bottles)
2004 Pèppoli Chianti Classico (List $25) 21.99 (sale)
2004 Tignanello 750ml Sold Out
2004 SOLAIA  Sale $199.99
1998 Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino  Sold Out
1998 Guado al Tasso $99.99 (only a bottle or two remain)
1999 Guado al Tasso $85.99

Vin Santo (list $35) SALE $29.99  (500ml)
Aleatico (sweet dessert wine) No Longer being imported...
Muffato della Sala  $44.99 (500ml)

2007 CERVARO della SALA (Chardonnay/Grechetto blend from Umbria) (List $48)  
SALE $42.99

 

A vineyard site Antinori was to plant...
The piles of rocks will be scattered throughout the vineyard allowing for reflective heat for the vines, fewer weeds and they can show visitors what a wonderfully rocky "terroir" they have.
I will post an "after" photo when I next visit Toscana.

                   

 

UCCELLIERA

The story of this little property starts in the mid-1980s when, after working for Mastrojanni and Ciacci Piccolomini, Andrea Cortonesi was able to buy a couple of hectares of vineyards in the area of Castelnuovo dell'Abate.

Cortonesi now has 4 hectares of his own and rents two more.  The winery is fairly new and additional construction was in progress as we visited in May of 2010.

We've been fans for many years as this fellow produces good wines with a modern touch, yet showing respect for the Sangiovese or Brunello.  We even had a 2002 Brunello, which Cortonesi sold for 'small money' and yet it was a remarkably good wine and customers were happy.

The wines have been getting good reviews from various critical publications and this has increased the demand for the small production.  :(

Brunello is vinified in stainless steel tanks and then matured in both large botti and barriques.   Cortonesi prefers to do a cold soak or pre-fermentation maceration, saying this retains more bright fruit on the nose and contributes a measure of intensity to the color.  He likes to keep SO2 levels low and indigenous yeasts are used.  

 

We appreciate this fellow's approach to wine.  He's serious about attention to detail in the vineyards and the cellar seems to be a place to validate the vineyard work.  

 

We currently have a 2005 Brunello di Montalcino from Uccelliera...we like the charm of the wine, as it is quite approachable now and it will continue to develop and gain complexity with bottle aging.  The wine offers a dark cherry fruit tone of Sangiovese and there's a light touch of wood framing it.  

There's a good Rosso di Montalcino here, though we're bigger fans of the IGT wine called Rapace, a Sangiovese fortified with Cabernet and Merlot.  

 

 

 

Currently in stock:  2005 UCCELLIERA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO  Sale $59.99

LA GERLA

This small estate in Montalcino has periodically made some pretty nice Sangiovese wines.  The vineyards had been owned, apparently, by Biondi-Santi. Perhaps the Biondi-Santi people didn't like the fruit from this vineyard because the wines one can make here ARE drinkable during one's lifetime (Biondi-Santi wines are of such high acidity, they are difficult to appreciate in their youth and, sometimes, even for a generation or two or three after!).   

Sergio Rossi had been working in the advertising business before trading his briefcase for a wine barrel.  The estate was purchased in 1976 and the cellar is in the Canalicchio area...northern Montalcino.  But they get fruit from Mercatale and Castelnuovo dell'Abate.

 

Vittorio Fiore is the consulting winemaker.  He's been on board since the beginning.  The wines seem to be made without catering to current fashions and a healthy respect for tradition.  You'll rarely find La Gerla at the top of some wine critic's numerically-scored list of Brunello wines, though they're well on the radar of most Tuscan wine drinkers.

The cellar features large wood as well as small French oak.  Typically the Brunello spends three years in large Slavonian oak.  There's a single vineyard bottling of Brunello called "Vigna gli Angeli" as well as a Rosso di Montalcino and an IGT wine.

A favorite wine from La Gerla has been a French oak-aged proprietary red they called "Birba."  The Italian word for "scoundrel" is "Birba," so I suppose this is Rossi's little joke, though he's certainly neither a scoundrel nor a scallywag.  The wine is entirely Sangiovese from vineyards which could produce "Brunello di Montalcino."  Birba is matured for a shorter period of time and in smaller cooperage, a portion of which is new.  The small size of cooperage means the wine develops more quickly. 

The 2004 Brunello is very fine.  I found typically cherry notes of Sangiovese on the nose, deeper than Chianti, for example.  The wine is medium-full on the palate and with a mouth-drying bit of tannin at this early stage.  It is certainly a wine you might open now, though it's really going to be more interesting with a few years of cellaring.  I read one review of this vintage where the wine was described using adjectives such as "milk chocolate and fudge."  That's not the wine I've tasted...this is meant for adult palates.

Currently in stock: 
2004 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO  Coming soon

The estate's manager, Alberto Passeri.

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    Last modified: May 13,  2012