CHARDONNAY

The word "Chardonnay" has become synonymous with "white wine" here in California.  People seem to buy virtually anything labeled "Chardonnay", whether the wines actually taste like Chardonnay or not.

In fact, I often wonder whether the average bear can identify the character of Chardonnay.  This is because many wines produced in California are subjected to so much oak, either in the form of real barrel aging or some sort of oak "flavoring" (new staves being introduced into a barrel or tank or oak chips or sawdust being added  --  the laws don't require a winery to disclose this on the label) that an unwooded Chardonnay doesn't "taste" like Chardonnay to Yogi or Boo-Boo.  Similarly, I have noticed that many tasters describe other white wines as being "Chardonnay-like" when these are dominated by wood. 

The Chardonnay grape was not treated like royalty until a few years ago.  Old-timers such as Inglenook, Christian Brothers, Beaulieu Vineyards and Charles Krug made simple dry white wines of Chardonnay grapes.  The Wente Brothers winery was thought to be at the vanguard of Chardonnay production, making a fresh, non-oaked dry white wine. In those days, Chardonnay was thought to be a relative of Pinot Noir and was routinely called "Pinot Chardonnay."  It is, as it turns out, not related, so it's now called "just" Chardonnay.

The first really important work in marrying oak with Chardonnay in the traditional style of France's Burgundian winemakers started with the Hanzell winery in Sonoma.  This was back in 1957, when James Zellerbach imported French oak barrels for the aging and maturation of his Hanzell wines.  Wonder of wonders!  Oak!!!

It's taken many years for winemakers to learn how to use oak in making wine.  Some of them use oak as a crutch, propping up weak, thin wines and overloading them with wood.   Others employ a combination of wood and residual sugar to give character to wines which are malnourished, wimpy wines.  Many of these are quite popular, even "scoring" highly with those who claim expertise in judging wine.   McDonald's hamburgers are quite popular, too, but few would say those are the best examples of beef on the planet.

We enjoy a nicely oaked Chardonnay---don't get me wrong.  I have been accused of liking the most woody tasting wines.  I cite Napa Valley eno-scribe Bob Thompson who once wrote something like  "My parents marveled that, as a boy, I ate the fruit and not the tree."  He was poking fun at those who prefer Chardonnays with so much wood that determining if the beverage was actually made from grapes is impossible. 

The Chardonnay grape finds its home in France's Burgundy region, though it also is cultivated in Champagne.  In Burgundy's Cote d'Or, the major appellations of Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault account for the top wines, but other villages turn out good wines, too.  The best Cote d'Or producers barrel ferment the juice, using, at least, a percentage of new oak cooperage.  The wines are often aged on the spent yeast and this sediment is stirred in barrel, contributing a toasty, smoky element to the wines.  As the juice tends to be rather high in acidity, most winemakers induce a secondary fermentation (called a malolactic fermentation).  This reduces the acidity and makes the wine rounder, creamier and somewhat buttery in character. 

California vintners make a full range of Chardonnays.  At the low end you'll find wines from the "hotter-than-hell" Central Valley where tonnage is high and the intensity of character is low.  On the higher end, you'll find wines from cooler, coastal climes, from low-yielding vineyards which can be sublime.  Some wineries make light, crisp, "simple" Chardonnay, while others attempt to emulate the top wines of Burgundy.  

Some winemakers liken Chardonnay to a blank canvas. The character of the Chardonnay grape is dependant upon its origins, clonal selection, soil type, exposure, etc.  The "seasonings" bestowed upon it during its maturation (oak, secondary fermentation, etc.) further determine the character of the wine.  Some old clones of Chardonnay display a mildly appley note.  Newer ones seem to have a more tropically-fruity quality.   

Diversity and individuality are what make winetasting fun and challenging.  Don't fall into a rut!   Be adventuresome and experiment with Chardonnays from different regions and unknown producers. 

Current BEST BUYS

OLIVET LANE 2010 Russian River CHARDONNAY

List $25  SALE $18.99 

From an outstanding (and famous) vineyard in the cool Russian River Valley of Sonoma County, this is a smooth, creamy, vanillin Chardonnay which has been fermented in French oak.  

The 2010 vintage is very fine.  It's the seventh vintage, I think,  produced in the Pellegrini's own facility.  Previously they've rented space at other wineries and made their wine "on the road."  Now they have their own place and Bob Pellegrini credits this with the improvement in their wine.

"It's not any one particular thing," he explains.  "It's a lot of little details."  

The juice is fermented in French oak.  About one-third of the wood is brand new, the rest being once used barrels and twice used cooperage.  A variety of yeasts are employed in an effort to build in more complexity.  There's a nice creamy note, some vanillin and butter along with some toasty oak.   It's bigger and richer than its predecessors and is one impressive bottle of California Chardonnay. Remarkably good!

:::::::We understand there are changes afoot at this winery, as the non-wine part of the family is exerting pressure to raise prices, be more profitable, etc.  We hope they will continue to offer good wine at sensible prices, but understand this may change at any moment...

 

SEBASTIANI VINEYARDS

The Sebastiani family seems to have "gotten serious" about making some good wines.  And then they got out of town...sold the winery to an insurance mogul who's been buying up wineries right and left.  Foley is the feller's name.



Here's a magnificent Sonoma County Chardonnay featuring wines from five different appellations.  The cooler climate regions of Carneros, Sonoma Coast and Russian River have been barrel fermented and the have undergone a secondary, malolactic fermentation which creates a mildly buttery, creamy quality.  The warmer climate Chardonnays from the Alexander Valley and Sonoma Valley were fermented in stainless steel at cool temperatures to retain as much of the aromatics as possible.  That portion did not undergo the secondary fermentation, retaining as much structure and crispness as you can from these areas.
They blend in a drop of "other" varieties...Roussanne, Pinot Gris and the UC Davis hybrid called Symphony.  

The resulting blend is a delight, especially in its price category.  You'll find some vanillin notes and some nice oak.  Remarkably good for its ten buck sale price!

 

Currently in stock:  2010 SEBASTIANI "Sonoma" CHARDONNAY (List $13) SALE $9.99

WELLINGTON

This family-operated winery flies well below the radar of most wine drinkers.  They don't make the flashiest wines and they're not a source of push-the-envelope, over-the-top kind of grape growing.  Over the life span of this winery, we've had a half a dozen wines...

Their 2010 Sonoma Valley Chardonnay is a delight.  They have incorporated a number of clones of Chardonnay into this wine with the idea of making a more complex wine.  It's entirely barrel-fermented and has undergone a full malolactic fermentation.  There's nice oak here, but it's not woody.  We like the aromas and flavors of this mildly toasty, lightly buttery and dry white.  Stellar.

It's $20 at the winery.

Currently in stock:  2010 WELLINGTON Sonoma Valley CHARDONNAY  $13.99






PEDRONCELLI WINERY

We've long been fans of Pedroncelli's single vineyard bottling from the Frank Johnson vineyard in the Dry Creek Valley.   This vineyard is actually along the border of Dry Creek and Russian River appellations.

The Pedroncelli's have usually made a terrific wine from this fruit and each vintage is seems to improve.  We've noticed they're using less American oak for the wine and they've increased the proportion of French barrels.

The 2009 is delicious...lots of ripe apple notes with a touch of a spice note.  Dry, of course.

Currently in stock:  2010 PEDRONCELLI Dry Creek Valley "Frank Johnson Vineyard" CHARDONNAY  $12.99

 

FRITZ

Jay Fritz was in the shipping business and he started a little winemaking enterprise in the late 1970s.

They began with much fanfare and made some really good wines back in the early days.  Over the years they had some challenges and changes in winemakers which didn't "help."

The past few years we've seen them get their sea legs back and a number of their wines are quite impressive and they have attractive price tags.

The current Chardonnay is fairly big, with ripe fruit heading towards a hint of pineapple, melon, ripe pear and then having plenty of oak so there's a nicely oaky aspect.  

We're able to offer the wine at a really nice price, too...

 

Currently in stock:  2010 FRITZ Russian River Valley CHARDONNAY  Sale $15.99

 

DOMAINE PAUL MAS

We've been impressed with a number of wines from this family-owned vintner in the Languedoc region of France.
They seem to understand the notion of producing good quality and selling their wines at honest and attractive prices.  

Chardonnay is 100% varietal and most of it is fermented in stainless steel.  But they ferment something close to 20% in American oak barrels and then blend the two lots together, creating a wine which smells and tastes like Chardonnay and costs like simple "vin blanc."  

We like the appley notes of this wine and it's dry and moderately crisp.  

Currently in stock:  2011 PAUL MAS CHARDONNAY $8.99

Also:  The Macon-Charnay of Manciat-Poncet is just $14.99.  This is a delicious bottle of wine.  No oak to speak of, but there's really nice apple-like fruit.   
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From Chile we have Viu Manent's Reserve level Chardonnay for ten bucks.  Nice touch of oak...dry...screw cap...

WE TYPICALLY OFFER 5 or 6 CHARDONNAYS FOR SAMPLING IN OUR TASTING ROOM!

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TO INQUIRE ABOUT A WINE:  gerald@weimax.com