Italian Cabernet-Influenced Wines
THE WINES |
Gerald's
Rank |
Ellen's
Rank |
Bob's
Rank |
GROUP RANKING |
Total Points |
1sts/2nds/
Lasts |
ANTINORI
1996 "Solaia" Toscana
80% Cab Sauv
20% Sangiovese
$119.99 |
3 |
2 |
1 |
3 |
60 |
1/3/0 |
ANTINORI
1996 "Tignanello"
Toscana
80% Sangiovese
20% Cab Sauv
$59.99 |
7 |
6 |
2 |
6 |
76 |
0/2/1 |
BELLAVISTA
1996 "Solesine"
Lombardia
85% Cab Sauv
15% Merlot
$49.99 |
4 |
3 |
8 |
7 |
87 |
0/0/3 |
ISOLE e OLENA
1996
Collezione De Marchi
Toscana
Cabernet Sauvignon
$39.99 |
2 |
1 |
5 |
1 |
35 |
9/2/1 |
Fattoria MONTELLORI MONTELLORI
1995 Toscana
"Castelrapiti"
75% Sangiovese
25% Cab Sauv
$29.99 |
8 |
7 |
7 |
8 |
93 |
0/1/4 |
PLANETA
1997 Sicilia
Cabernet Sauvignon
$37.50 |
5 |
4 |
3 |
2 |
49 |
2/5/1 |
Tenuta SAN GUIDO 1996
SAN GUIDO 1996
Toscana
"Sassicaia"
80-85% Cab Sauv
15-20% Cab Franc
$124.99 |
6 |
5 |
4 |
4 |
66 |
1/1/2 |
Tenuta del
TERRICIO
1996 Toscana
"Lupicaia"
Cab/Merlot Blend
$84.99 |
1 |
8 |
6 |
5 |
74 |
2/1/3 |
A TASTING OF CABERNET-INFLUENCED WINES FROM ITALY
November 3, 1999
Recently we tasted a broad range of Cabernet Sauvignons produced in wine regions
throughout the winemaking world. Here, now, was a chance to zero in on some of the
Cabernet-based wines of Italy. These producers are angling for a slice of the
"prestige" international wine market while maintaining a link to local
traditions and markets.
In Bordeaux the varietal of choice for mitigating the severity of Cabernet is Merlot.
Spanish vignerons have had success using the native Tempranillo in that role while
Australia has established an indigenous style by blending Cabernet with a moderate amount
of Shiraz. In Italy, especially Tuscany, the role is given to Sangiovese, the predominant
component of Chianti Classico. The present tasting provided an opportunity to compare
various combinations of Cabernet and Sangiovese. Could California be on the horizon
utilizing Zinfandel in the role? Professor Amerine at UC Davis long ago argued against it
and indeed Cabernet and Zinfandel represent a clash of opposites. Theres no possible
symbiosis happening there!
The Italians have taken a freewheeling, experimental attitude, eschewing DOC guidelines in
favor of creating a proprietary moniker that garners its own reputation for excellence.
The first of these was the Castelrapiti of Fattoria Montellori. Sangiovese had
the upper hand here in a rather harsh and aggressive style, lacking
complexity. It was at somewhat of a disadvantage being a 95 tasted against
younger, brighter group of 96s. One taster liked its hint of rosemary and sweet
spice in the nose but objected to its Brunello-like tannin on the palate without any depth
of fruit to warrant it. From Lombardia and a producer of one of Italys more
interesting sparkling wines came Bellavistas Solesine. Cabernet was much
in evidence here but in a rather sharp-toned, earthy, rustic, medicinal, even
horsy concoction with cooked and stewed fruit. One
defender found nice hints of Cassis and cedar. A considerable step up was Antinoris
famed Tignanello. Several tasters were put off by a slightly
leathery tone but staunch defenders liked its hint of pencil
shavings, herbs and red fruits, its depth of
fruit and judicious use of oak. Lupicaia of Tenuta del Tericcio was even
better liked for its big youthful rich ripe fruit, cedar, a hint of peppermint
and a long bitter orange peel finish.
The Sassicaia of Tenuta San Guido, one of the first of the so-called
Super Tuscans, showed nicely with its complex if somewhat woodsy
nose displaying black currant, plums and oak. One taster complained of
shallow, one-dimensional fruit while another found it closed in but with the
potential to develop very well indeed. The Solaia of Antinori was well
received. Tasters liked this cedary Cabernet dominated wine with its
vanilla and sweet oak. One found a big dry mouthful, its aggressive
tannins warranted by its deep, long fruit. The surprise of the tasting was the fine
showing of the upstart Planeta Cabernet Sauvignon from Sicily. It was liked for its
ripe, soft, berryish tone and its deep, long, black currant Cabernet
fruit. One taster though found it jammy and simple. With nine first
place votes the Collezione de Marchi Cabernet of Isole e Olena was the clear
favorite, praised for its big, oaky, rich, concentrated Cabernet fruit,
woodsy and yet stylish with hints of licorice, mocha, Cassis and
cinnamon. The wine was easily the closest in style to California Cabernet and good
reason for its popularity with the tasters.
Bob Gorman
Wine Consultant @ Weimax Wines and Spirits

Gerald's Notes:
I was really impressed with this set of wines, my top wine
being the Tericcio "Lupicaia." I found really exotic, plummy fruit and
sweet oak to this wine. It also had a nice cassis note, which some tasters describe
as vegetal and find to be a negative character.
The Isole e Olena Cabernet was also outstanding and it ran away with the tasting. It
is a really fine Cabernet Sauvignon and is sure to please anyone with half a palate.
Antinori's Solaia was a shade less intense, while carrying an international reputation and
a king's ransom price tag. Bob ranked this first in this tasting and in our
Cabernets of the World tasting, finding it, consistently, outstanding.
The Planeta was more berryish and a shade simpler than my other top wines, though the
group found it to be quite agreeable and had it rated much more highly than did I.
On the other hand, I liked the Bellavista "Solesine", describing it as having
mildly herbal and cassis notes. I
pegged it as a very good wine, while the group was less thrilled.
The famous Sassicaia was great on the nose but a bit shallow in the mouth.
Our 7th and 8th places wines, Antinori's "Tignanello" and Montellori's
"Castelrapiti" were probably mis-cast in this tasting, having predominantly
Sangiovese and just a relatively small contribution from Cabernet. The Antinori was
quite good, though. The Montellori, an older wine, weighed in with a jammy note and
rather shy in the fruit department. Other vintages, however, have shown very well,
so perhaps we had a poor view of this wine.
Gerald
WEIMAX TASTING ARCHIVE
1997
VOSNE-ROMANE
Tasting August 1, 2001
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINS July 25, 2001
1998
CABERNET SAUVIGNONS July 11, 2001
OLD
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS June 6, 2001
1997
ECHEZEAUX May 30, 2001
1999
NORTH COAST ZINFANDELS May 23, 2001
1999
West Coast Merlots May 9, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS May 2, 2001
1997
BARBARESCO April 25, 2001
Mostly
RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIRS April 11, 2001
1997
NAPA CABERNETS April 4, 2001
1995
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 28, 2001
1997 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY &
MOREY SAINT DENIS
with one 1996...March 14, 2001
1997
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN March 7, 2001
1996
BAROLO February 28, 2001
1978-1979
California Cabernets January 10, 2001
1997
California Cabernets November 8, 2000
1997
TUSCAN SANGIOVESES November 1, 2000
1997-1998
Chteauneuf-du-Papes & CALIFORNIA WANNABEEs October 25, 2000
Mostly
1998 PINOT NOIRS October 11, 2000
1996
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 4, 2000
MATURE
CLARETS September 27, 2000
1997 RED BORDEAUX September 13, 2000
1997 NAPA CABERNETS
September 6, 2000
1998 CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS
August 30, 2000
1997 CLOS DE VOUGEOTS August 23,
2000
SYRAH & PETITE
SIRAH August 9, 2000
FANCY CALIFORNIA MERLOTS
August 2, 2000
1996 FAMOUS CALIFORNIA
CABERNETS June 14, 2000
WEST COAST SYRAHS
June 7, 2000
1997 CABERNETS May 31, 2000
VIOGNIERS
of RECENT VINTAGE May 24, 2000
1997-1998 ZINFANDELS May 10, 2000
SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE CLARETS May 3, 2000
1996 California CABERNETS April 12, 2000
1996
FRENCH RED BURGUNDIES March 29, 2000
CALIFORNIA vs ITALIAN (Tuscan) SANGIOVESE March 22, 2000
WEST COAST
PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2000
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING March 1, 2000
FRENCH CHAMPAGNES (NV BRUTS) January 5, 2000
1996 BORDEAUX (MEDOC) TASTING November 10, 1999
CABERNETS OF THE WORLD TASTING
October 27, 1999
THE
VINO-FINO TASTERS (A private tasting group)
THE
VINO-FINO TASTERS (A private tasting group)
VINO FINO: 1999 PINOT
NOIRS May 16, 2001
VINO FINO: 1996 SAINT-MILION Tasting April 18, 2001
VINO FINO: CARNEROS CHARDONNAYS March 21, 2001
VINO
FINO: 1984/1985 Napa CABERNETS (John Vignau Memorial Tasting)
October 18, 2000
VINO FINO: 1997 CALIFORNIA
CABERNETS Sept. 2000
VINO FINO:
1997 BORDEAUX - MEDOC
VINO FINO:
1997-1998 SANGIOVESES
VINO
FINO: SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE CLARETS
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