4th of JULY:
- More Tuscan Wines
- CASTELLO DELLA PANERETTA
estate is located a bit off the beaten path, although a couple of
neighboring wineries are quite famous and this one is reasonably well-known
to Chianti Classico aficionados.
The neighbors are Castello di Monsanto to the south and Isole e Olena to the
north...Paneretta is situated on a very minor road and so it's not a
property that gets as many casual tourists as easier-to-find Chianti
The philosophy at Paneretta is one we appreciate: no Merlot and no Cabernet
Sauvignon. They actually have the idea that while Cabernet and Merlot can
be cultivated with success around the world, Sangiovese has its home in
Tuscany's Chianti region.
We had, some years ago, a wonderful 2000 vintage from Paneretta, a relatively modest vintage
so they incorporated their top vineyards into their basic Chianti Classico,
forgoing the fancy bottlings that year.
The 2006 vintage was a year where if you didn't make a good wine, you should
leave the business of making Chianti. The wine is 90% Sangiovese and 10%
Canaiolo. They mature this in 30 & 50 hectoliter wood
tanks...the oak, of course, is not a feature of the wine since the cooperage is
This shows a medium ruby color and good cherry-like Sangiovese
fragrances and flavors. The wine is dry and mildly tannic, but tastes
rather smooth when paired with tomato-sauced pastas or meats. We suspect
this will cellar nicely through 2012-2018, but view it more as something
Currently in stock: 2006 CASTELLO DELLA PANERETTA CHIANTI
CLASSICO Sold Out
Paneretta has a nice cellar full of these traditional,
large wooden tanks.
- Un-labeled bottles in the Paneretta cellar, awaiting
CASTELLO di FONTERUTOLI
- Here's a
winery with ties to Thomas Jefferson and the other founding fathers of the United States.
Owned by the Mazzei family, it seems Filippo Mazzei was invited/paid by Jefferson
to come over from Italy and plant some of the first European vines in America. These
were, of course, at Jefferson's Virginia digs in Monticello. The Mazzei family
is still in charge of this estate, located near Castellina in Chianti.
The family is a leader in Chianti Classico, being involved in the "Gallo Nero
Consorzio," so it is incumbent upon them to produce top-quality wines, especially
since so many top producers have dropped out of the "Black Rooster" group.
They used to produce a wine called "Concerto," but have recently dropped that
label from the portfolio. I think this was a clever attempt at
attracting buyers of the expensive wine called "Opus One."
The wine may have been noteworthy, but sales were flat.
- The property comprises something like 79 hectares and they make about
half a million bottles of wine annually. They make a range of wines,
from a small, little Sangiovese and Merlot blend called "Badiola"
to a couple of bottlings of Chianti Classico and a Super Tuscan blend of
Merlot and Sangiovese.
We have their "regular" bottling of Chianti Classico in the shop. The
2009 is a very good wine, being drinkable now and with the structure to age nicely for another
3-6 years, maybe more. This is about 90% Sangiovese, with small
amounts of Malvasia, Colorino and Merlot. It sees a bit of French oak and the wine is nicely
elegant and balanced.
Siepi is the Super Tuscan blend of Merlot and Sangiovese. The ratio
varies from vintage to vintage. The importer does not presently
offer this wine. It's usually ridiculously priced, in my view.
- The Mazzei family owns an estate in the Maremma region of
Tuscany and makes wines called Belguardo there. They make
Cabernet, a Sangiovese and a blend of Sangiovese and Alicante.
Another project is situated in Sicily and the wine is called Zisola.
This is a Nero d'Avola red...I found the first vintage we tasted to be a
bit over-priced, frankly.
- Currently in stock: 2009 Chianti Classico $24.99
CASTELLO DI RAMPOLLA
"Conca d'Oro" is, for those who study Chianti, sort of a "grand cru"
site. Located in Panzano in Chianti, this is a shell-shaped hillside which is bathed in
Luca di Napoli is the proprietor, his family having owned the property for a couple of
The vineyards were planted in 1969 and the first Chianti Classico was made in 1975.
Consulting with di Napoli is Giacomo Tachis, former head of winemaking operations with
The "cult wine" made here is called "La Vigna di Alceo," a Cabernet
Sauvignon/Petit Verdot blend. It costs a small fortune when you can find it.
We have been able to purchase a couple of bottles from time to time, so stop
by to see if we have any.
"Sammarco" (originally labeled "San Marco") is a Cabernet Sauvignon
with about 20% Sangiovese in the style of Antinori's Tignanello or Ruffino's Cabreo.
However, for those of us who enjoy Chianti, Castello dei Rampolla's "normale"
bottling is worth a look. This is, I believe, produced entirely of Sangiovese. No
Cabernet. No Merlot. It spends some time in small oak, but not so much to add wood
elements, but to mature and soften the wine.
Currently in stock: 2006 Chianti Classico Sold
CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO
- We're totally out of the loop in terms of clothing and shoes, so while
we've heard the name "Ferragamo," we think of a old American
football player, not fine fashion.
So, the Ferragamo family which hails from Italy (the old man, Salvatore,
who died in 1960, was a master shoemaker it seems), not only sells hugely
expensive handbags, dresses, sunglasses and shoes, they also own a fancy
little place in southern Tuscany where they make Brunello and Rosso di
This, though, is a fairly recent endeavor, while I understand they've been
making or repairing shoes for nearly a century.
The family purchased a huge property which had vineyards and an empty,
abandoned little town. They've renovated the town and now there is a
sort of hotel which you can buy into (a million bucks for a share and
$40,000 dues annually which gets you at least 4 weeks' stay each
year). Until they have a full slate of members (they're offering 120
memberships and have sold nearly one-third of them), you can book a hotel
room. Bring your credit card, though.
- The winery has been renovated and we think they may be on the right
track to becoming a consistently good producer...
We tasted a really good Rosso di Montalcino from these high rollers and
now the 2004 is sold out...it was an over-achiever and well-priced, too.
There's a bit of their 2004 vintage Brunello in the shop
presently. The wine, we understand, was matured in those small
French oak barrels you see below...yet at this stage the wood has receded
into the background and the wine shows a ripe, mildly jammy cherry element
with a hint of earthiness. It's probably close to its peak in terms
of development, so we'd expect it to hold nicely for another 5+
Currently in stock: 2004 CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO
Brunello di Montalcino $47.99
SASSICAIA (Tenuta San Guido)
- This is a
legendary wine which put Italy on the world's "Wine Map" back in the 1970s.
The property was founded by the Marchese Incisa della Rocchetta whose family acquired the
estate called Tenuta San Guido back in the 1940s.
Though vineyards existed in this coastal area of Tuscan, not much attention was paid to
the wines produced there. Italian wine aficionados were critical of the wines from
the Livorno area because they often tasted of the salt sea air (blowing inland off the
So the Marchese decided to plant a hectare of Cabernet on a hill which was about a
thousand feet above sea level, thinking this would prevent the saltiness.
The first wine was made, I suppose, in the late 1940s combining the odd Tuscan tradition
of the "governo" process (adding some dried grapes to the already fermenting vat
of wine) and the Bordeaux fashion of small oak barrels. Unfortunately, this
"innovation" of using barrels was difficult as the barrels leaked!
Months after the first wine was vinified, a tasting was held and all in attendance decided
the wine was a disaster. Awful.
The Marchese continued with other affairs, notably raising horses and flowers.
A few years after this sad tasting, he decided to open a bottle of one of the now-aged
bottles. It seems the wines, from various vintages, showed elements of promise.
Cabernet, of course, makes a more tannic and astringent, rough-and-tumble red wine.
These people were accustomed to easy-drinking, youthfully exuberant Chianti wines
which were drinkable just a few months after the harvest.
The excessively herbal notes of the Cabernet, which they probably found somewhat crude and
rude as the wine was first born, took years to evolve into something more balanced and
Marchese Incisa invited some friends over for a tasting and many were said to have found
the wines to offer some potential.
Eventually the "governo" technique was eliminated and the Marchese was able to
find barrels which were properly coopered and did not leak.
Now the Marchese purchased a site at a lower elevation called Sassicaia and he planted
more Cabernet (both Sauvignon and Franc, apparently). The wine continued to be good
and enough was made to keep the Marchese and his cronies in good supply.
A nephew of the Marchese was getting his feet wet in the wine business, the family having
been engaged in that trade for hundred of years...his name is Piero Antinori. He
tasted his uncle's wine and suggested the wine be made available commercially. The
first vintage to hit the market was the 1968.
I recall being aware of Sassicaia starting with the 1973 vintage. The wine was, for
(I should point out that the Italian wines which first gave me -personally- a clue
to Italy's potential were a 1967 Bruno Giacosa Barolo, a 1961 Gaja Barbaresco and a
Sassicaia from 1975. "Oh, you mean Italy makes something other than
Chianti in a straw-covered bottle?!?!")
There was a small importer named Jerold Jacoby who had some curious French and
Italian wines and Sassicaia was amongst his various offerings. He had a legendary
salesman named Bill Cooke working for him.
Bill was an enthusiastic fellow, to say the least, and a major
"character" in the Bay Area wine business.
On my first foray to Italy we had an appointment with the Antinori winery. The
English-speaking woman who showed us around that day (I think she was American) took us to
Antinori's main winery. We inquired about Sassicaia (since Antinori would bottle the
wine for his Uncle). She explained that no Americans were allowed on the estate
since the visit of some guy from San Francisco who was speaking an odd combination of
Sp-Italian or Ital-ish. (Bill hailed from Argentina, so his Italian
was laced with
Spanish!) We were disappointed, of course. Knowing Bill Cooke, though, well,
anything is/was possible.
Over the years Sassicaia has gained in fame and prestige (and price!). It carries
"cult" status (long before Araujo, Bryant Family and Screaming Eagle from
California's Napa Valley).
On a visit one year to Milano, the lovely and most attractive Barbara Ferri wanted to
treat me (and the rest of Le Crazy Milanese) to a bottle of
Sassicaia. She scoured Milano and finally begged a restaurateur for a bottle.
"Only because you and your business associates dine here frequently will I consider
parting with a bottle!" he offered.
The wine is still much sought-after, though its lofty price now keeps the
"riff-raff" from being interested in buying some. Italy's
great, fancy restaurants all have Sassicaia on their wine lists. It's
a badge of honor and an indication to patrons that the sommelier knows what
he (or, perhaps she) knows wine.
A fair bit of Sassicaia reaches the export market. The American market
has long been important.
We receive some bottles nearly every vintage. Sadly, though, in prime
vintages those who buy wine only when The Critics proclaim success, get involved and
Sassicaia achieves amazing prices. The 1997 vintage is an example. Arriving
here through its normal channels, the wine costs $150 a bottle. However, we received
offers from gray market importers who had prices twice that!!!
Yet there are few vintages of Sassicaia which do not merit the adjective
The wine has become so hard to get that others outside of the Marchese Incisa della
Rocchetta family have started to "make" Sassicaia! The Italian
"fraud squad" recently seized something like 16,000 bottles of fake Sassicaia in
Naples. The counterfeiters had sold the wine in various locales in Italy, claiming
the attractive price was because an overseas importer did not take its allocation of
Sassicaia! While news reports claim none of the bogus wine was exported, this cannot
Today Nicola Incisa della Rocchetta runs the property. He now has many neighbors!
I visited the region of Bolgheri a few times. The region is amazingly
similar to the coastline from Half Moon Bay to Santa Cruz! Bolgheri seems to be a
prosperous little village, though aside from a restaurant or two and a gelateria, I'm
uncertain of what commerce goes on.
Numerous new estates have been 'planted' in the neighborhood.
Piemonte's Angelo Gaja has a wonderful winery near Sassicaia. The
Tenuta Ornellaia is down the road, too. Antinori makes a wonderful
wine from grapes in the same neighborhood and their wine is, in my view,
worthy of comparison (and sometimes better!).
So, Sassicaia is, no longer, the only game in town, but it still is the
"leader" in terms of the price it sells for to consumers.
((I understand, actually, that it leaves the winery for a modest and
sensible price, but that middlemen jack up the price, knowing it's a luxury
The wine is typically 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc.
Yields in the vineyard are restricted to intensify the character of the
fruit. Two years aging in French oak contributes a bit of wood to the fruit of Sassicaia.
While, at one time, Sassicaia was an extraordinary wine from Italy, I can
only say recent vintages have been less exciting than the wines I recall
tasting some years ago.
A new wine called Guidalberto is being introduced. I bought a bottle
in Italy and tasted it with some friends. I was not especially
thrilled, frankly. I recently had a taste over here and my initial
impression was confirmed. I overheard someone from the estate telling
an associate at a trade tasting (in Italian) "Don't tell people this is
a 'second' wine. It's not a 'second' wine!"
Though I understood what he was saying, I could only think "He's
right...it's a third or fourth level of quality."
Most disappointing were the 2002 reds from the estate. The Guidalberto is a
solid, standard quality Tuscan red. If I did not know it was from such
a prestigious place, I'd expect it to retail for $15. But it cost
consumers closer to $50.
The 2002 Sassicaia is from a difficult vintage. The wine is well-made
and of decent quality, but expecting people to fork over a premium price for
the wine is simply wrong. I did not find it to be a great wine.
It probably should have been declassified entirely, since the wine they
bottled is not the stuff legends are made of...it will, I suspect, please
only those who are drinking more the label and not the wine. I was
shocked to see the Gambero Rosso guide giving the 2002 its annual Tre
It pains me to have to write that. The Gambero Rosso guide's review of
the 2002 reads more like an apology for the wine than an enthusiastic
accolade, by the way.
The 2003, a rather hot vintage, seemed to me to be a rather normal quality
bottle of wine. I tasted this in Italy in the early Spring of
2006. A winery representative told us the this vintage was being
likened to the legendary 1985 Sassicaia. I wondered who was making
such a comparison, as I did not find the wine to be especially grand.
I will have another "look" at the wine at some point to see if my
initial assessment was too harsh.
The 2007 is a perfectly nice bottle of wine, but we didn't find it to be a
show-stopper. It's a very good bottle of red wine, comparable,
certainly, to good $40-$75 a bottle Napa Cabernets. Is it worth the
premium price one has to pay to acquire this?
It seems, in our opinion, that "Sassicaia" has become more of a
label than it is a wine. It will always garner high scores and top
reviews from various journals who seem obliged to write glowing reviews, no
matter what's in the bottle. I think some of the neighbors, though,
are doing a better job.
- Currently in stock:
1999 Sassicaia $219.99 (750ml)
2001 Sassicaia $219.99 (750ml)
For a few years, many experts had Avignonesi at the top of the list for Vino
Nobile wines in the town of Montepulciano. They did make some
extraordinary wines in the 1980s and, since then, have a few high-priced
bottlings which may rob the basic wine from being consistently
Many vintners get side-tracked into making special bottlings of rare and
costly wines and to do this, sometimes they use fruit which was perhaps the
'foundation' of the normal bottling. The wines today seem to be a bit
more approachable in their youth and they're a tad lighter, too.
When we first got to know the wines, a young fellow named Marco de Grazia
was representing the property. He's not been affiliated for many years
and he's now going by the name "Marc." My how things
Owned by the Falvo family for many years, they recently sold the property,
retaining a 10 percent ownership stake. The new owners had been
minority stockholders in the firm. The Falvos will stay involved in
running the winery through 2012 or 2013.
There are about 101 hectares of vineyards
scattered amongst some four different parcels. They're open to
experimentation and make a number of curious wines, though Vino Nobile and
Vin Santo are the flagships.
These little barrels contain the precious Vin Santo.
One wine that's caught our attention a few times is an amazingly concentrated Vino Nobile
from the 1999 vintage. It's called "Grandi Annate,"
"great vintages." They don't make this very often: 1990,
1993, 1997 and the new wine from 1999. The 2003 is nice, but I am
not certain it's truly a "grand" vintage. I bought a
bottle and we found the wine perfectly fine, but not as compelling as its
The current vintage of Vino Nobile is 2008...perfectly well-made
wine. We can special order it for you.
Vin Santo is a particular "show piece" at Avignonesi. They
make two different bottlings and each is matured for about a decade in
The 'regular' bottling is made from Grechetto, Malvasia and Trebbiano,
while the Occhio di Pernice is made of Prugnolo Gentile.
Both are hugely sweet and impressive wines.
These are not for simply dipping biscotti. They are grand
expressions of Vin Santo and will impress those who drink nothing but
- Currently in stock: 2006 Grandi Annate --Special order...about $55
1997 Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice SALE
2008 Vino Nobile $29.99 (750ml) Special Order
- The Brancaia estate
is located in Poppi, a small village near Radda in Chianti. It's owned
by a Swiss couple, Brigette and Bruno Widmer. They bought the place in
the early 1980s and the first wines were made by their friends at Castello
Now they have their own winemaking facility and since
the 1998 vintage, the wines are made under their own roof. Their
daughter Barbara holds the title of winemaker, assisted by consultant Carlo
Signor Ferrini has a bunch of famous wineries in his stable, including
Brolio, Riecine, La Massa, Fonterutoli, Tenuta di Terriccio, Poliziano and
Casanova di Neri, so it's not surprising his fingerprints are visible on the
There are about 20 hectares comprising the estate, 10 in Castellina and 10
in Radda. Chianti Classico
and the IGT wine "Brancaia" are the wines produced at this estate,
though I understand the Widmers have purchased some land on the Tuscan coast
near the famous estates that produce Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Sassigaja
(that's my name for Angelo Gaja's Bolgheri project).
Brancaia is predominantly Sangiovese, with about 30% Merlot and 5%
Cabernet. The wine spends about 18 months in French oak, two-thirds of
the barrels being new.
We had a great bottle of the 1998 vintage courtesy of Carlo Perini of Crazy
Milanese fame. The wine has the lovely sweet, cedary notes of other
Ferrini wines. It is beautifully balanced and drinkable now, though
several years of bottle aging are not out of the question.
Too bad they don't make more of this! Something like 40,000 bottles
are produced annually. As a result, world-wide demand makes this
somewhat of a scarce commodity.
Their Chianti 2003 was exceptional. The wine has the same sort of
cedary oak as their "blue label" Brancaia wine. Very fine,
having nice cherryish fruit and a really polished oak treatment. While
some have noted that 2003 is a challenging vintage due to the heat, obviously the Brancaia
folks were "up" for the challenge. It's 95% Sangiovese,
by the way, with 5% Merlot.
Ilatraia is their Cabernet, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot blend from the
Maremma. The wine is a lovely, modern-styled red showing nice wood,
good fruit and soft tannins.
The winery is well off the beaten path, being in the Località Poppi, not
too far from Radda in Chianti. They do accept visitors, but apparently
ask guests to pay something like ten Euros for a tour and tasting. It
seems Napa has arrived in Tuscany!
We visited a few years ago, having
tried to arrange an appointment. I suppose since we had not
"signed up" for an official tour & tasting, we were shown the
facility, but not offered a taste of Brancaia's wines! ((My two
Italian friends were shocked by this. Having visited a few wineries
without being offered even a sip, I was amused, but disappointed.
I did receive an apology from Martin Kronenberg, one of the owners...
Brancaia offers a more modestly priced wine called "Tre."
A recent book came out in Italy (published in April of 2010 and written by
Andrea Scanzi) which quotes a Tuscan vintner who cites a government
investigation of some shady practices which are said to be commonplace in
(We would say "not only Tuscany, but numerous other places in the world
of wine, from here in California to virtually every corner of the wine
The folks at Brancaia were "outted," a vintner claiming Brancaia's
wine had been impounded. In responding, the Widmers assert that for
their top wines, all the fruit is from their own vineyards.
easy-drinking wine, Brancaia TRE (IGT), is made from grapes that we
have not selected for our top wines.
Because of the success of and demand for
Brancaia TRE, in addition to the grapes we grow ourselves, we have
been buying grapes and bulk wine — both Toscana IGT — for some
time now. This is no secret and it is by no means a crime."
This statement, posted above in blue, was made in
response to the book in April of 2010.
As of June 1, 2012, though, here's what they wrote on their own web site of
their "Tre." (Much like what they had posted in June of 2010,
is a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet. The grapes are
carefully selected from our three estates Brancaia (Castellina),
Poppi (Radda) and Brancaia in Maremma (Morellino di
The wine ages 12 months in French tonneaux.
Apparently, there is an allowable percentage of purchased fruit or bulk
wine. On the other hand, perhaps the winery should not mislead customers
saying the wine is made from fruit grown in their own vineyards?
Just sayin'....as they say.
The Brancaia wines had been imported by the Hess folks for a number of years
and in March of 2012 they announced a change.
Can you imagine Gallo now importing the wines of Brancaia?!?!
Hard to believe!
- Currently in stock: 2005 Brancaia (Blue Label) Sold Out
2003 Chianti Classico Sold Out
2003 Ilatraia $59.99
BADIA di MORRONA
America, we think of some building or place as being "old" when
it's 50 to 100 years of age.
This abbey was built, we understand, back in 1089. Historical
documents indicate the place was operated by monastic orders of various
types...Benedictine monks, at one point and Camaldolites at
another. I suppose the former drank a French liqueur and the latter
smoked some sort of cigarettes made by R.J. Reynolds wrapped in the sleeves
of their monastic robes.
Today the property is owned by the Gaslini family and it's a short drive
from the shadows of the tower in Pisa. We've had various wines from
the property off-and-on over the years. The property encompasses
something like 500 hectares, with 80 of them being devoted to
vineyards. It's not a huge winery, but it's not a tiny cellar,
- We've been fans of their basic, simple Chianti wine. Since
the vineyards are located in the Pisa region, it's outside the
"Classico" zone and takes simple the name Chianti. This is
good news, for the word "classico" adds a few bucks to the
pricing of any Chianti wine, whether the quality justifies the premium or
Savvy buyers know to explore off the "beaten path" and so wines
such as this estate's can be good values.
- The 2009 vintage Chianti is one of our best buys. It's called
"I Sodi del Paretaio" since calling this merely
"Chianti" takes all the mystery out of life. The
wine is about 85% Sangiovese with the balance being split between Cabernet,
Merlot and now Syrah. Despite the presence of the Bordeaux varieties, the
Sangiovese really sings in this wine.
a cherryish, medium-bodied red wine. This is a totally dry
wine and it's a far cry from internationally-styled, oaky reds which
litter the enological landscape these days. When you taste this
wine, you'll understand they were trying to appeal to someone seated in a
restaurant with a savory pasta dish before them, not some wine critic
locked in a tasting room who's evaluating a flight of 50 or a hundred
California does not make this sort of wine. First, ten bucks is not
enough to cover the tour and tasting fee at many wineries. Secondly,
the average consumer of California wines is not looking for a wine with
'snap' or tangy acidity; the sort of balance that acts as a palate
cleanser when paired with food.
- Anyway, we're fans. You might be too if you've got a big bowl of
steaming hot pasta with a slowly-simmered tomato sauce.
- The winery also makes some other offerings.
We can order Badia di Morrona's other wines for you. They have a
special bottling of Sangiovese called "VignAalta," as well as a
mid-level Cabernet/Sangiovese/Merlot blend called Taneto. Vin Santo
here is quite good, too.
The estate also has a number of "agriturismo" apartments.
It looks like a nice place to stay.
Badia di Morrona Agriturismo info:
Tel. +39 0587 656013 - 658505
Fax +39 0587 655162
Currently in stock: 2009 BADIA DI MORRONA CHIANTI
"I Sodi di Paretaio" SALE $10.99
- The La
Fiorita venture was founded in 1992 by three partners.
One was winemaker Roberto Cipresso. Another was Lucio Gomiero who
owns Vignalta in the Colli Euganei near Padova and the third fellow is
race car driver Tiziano Siviero.
But things have changed and now Roberto Cipresso remains at the helm and
the other two have been bought out.
The property consists of two, Poggio al Sole and a larger piece at Pian
Bossolino and the vineyards are all mature, as the youngest vines are more
than 15 years of age.
Cipresso spends much of his time making wine for other brands and
He's a consultant for nearly two dozen producers today and he's worked
with several dozen more in the past, helping them establish their
winemaking regimens. He's even been affiliated with overseas
He recently took over a nice facility in the Montalcino area, not far from
Frescobaldi's Castelgiocondo. The place is owned by some Swiss investor
and it houses perhaps a half a dozen of Cipresso's winemaking projects.
Cipresso is also famed for collaborating with an American woman named
- Ms. Oliveros has a stage name, too, going by Savanna Samson and she's
made more than a couple of dozen sexually explicit movies. We don't
carry her "Sogno" wines, so if you're looking for those, you'll
have to try the X-Rated Wine store down the block.
- We do have Cipresso's wonderful 2006 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino,
a wine which sees about a year in French oak puncheons before being
racked into large cooperage. What makes this fellow's wine
approachable in its youth is that he strives to produce wines with a
softer profile of tannin.
We understand he's a bit of a stickler in monitoring the ripening of the
fruit in the vineyards so as to hit just the right moment before the
grapes start to dehydrate and become over-ripe. On top of that, he
keeps a watchful eye on the fermentation and the skin contact, looking for
a moderate level of tannin, but not a hugely astringent or coarse
2006 Brunello hits what we imagine to be Cipresso's target right on the
The wine has a bright cherry note of Sangiovese along with a nicely woodsy
bouquet and flavor. The oak is fairly prominent at this stage and we
expect it will diminish somewhat with several more years of bottle
aging. It's the sort of wine which pairs handsomely in its youth
with grilled or roasted red meats. It has sufficient tannin to last
another ten years, we expect, but it's wonderfully showy now.
Currently in stock: 2006 LA FIORITA BRUNELLO DI
- The Tenuta
dell'Ornellaia was founded in 1981.
It's undergone a series of changes in ownership and this week it's the
property of the Frescobaldi clan.
When it was founded, Ornellaia was the work of Ludovico
Antinori, who's older brother Piero is somewhat famed for some Tuscan wines,
including something called Chianti Classico. Piero also makes a wine called
Solaia, his entry in the Bolgheri wine derby. Ludovico's cousin Nicolò
Incisa della Rochetta owns the cellar next door, a property known as Tenuta San
Guido which makes the famed red wine called Sassicaia.
Robert Mondavi was a shareholder in the winery as of 1999 and became the sole
proprietor a few years later. Mondavi also had a partnership with the
Frescobaldi family to produce "Luce" in Montalcino. The
Frescobaldis took control of Ornellaia in 2005.
The early vintages of Ornellaia were perfectly pleasant wines with the typical
tax assessment of royal wine families incorporated into the price.
Ornellaia is their main red wine, though now they make a second wine called Le
Serre Nuove. There's a remarkably fine and hugely expensive Merlot called
Masseto and a Sangiovese blend called Le Volte.
There was, once upon a time, a Sauvignon Blanc which has since been
Ornellaia, for our tastes, was a modest copy of Sassicaia at the outset.
Since the 1980s, it seems to us that Ornellaia has pulled ahead in this horse
race and having tasted the 2007s from both properties side-by-side, we much
preferred the Ornellaia. We will admit to having a preference for
Cabernet-based wines rather than those made of Merlot, so our choice of
Ornellaia is curious since its percentage of Cabernet has been reduced to
somewhere between 50%-60% of the blend.
If you're able to afford such a luxury, do splurge and treat yourself (and
perhaps a few friends if they're worthy) to a bottle of the 2007
Ornellaia. It's a totally charming bottle of wine, being beautifully
balanced and drinkable at this early stage and yet with some potential for
further development in the cellar.
Our Milanese pal Carlo Perini has treated us to an older vintage of Ornellaia
which had aged very handsomely. I was stunned, in fact, to find the wine
had blossomed so magnificently. In May of 2010 we enjoyed a nice
bottle of Masseto, another strikingly fine Tuscan red.
Currently in stock: 2007 ORNELLAIA (List $200) SALE $179.99
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