4th of JULY:
South African Wines
- KANONKOP ESTATE
- The Krige family has owned this property for many years. The place
was founded by their grandfather, Paul Sauer.
The name of the place comes from the Dutch word "kopje" which
refers to the top of the hill...and way back in the 17th century, on this
hill, a canon was fired to alert local farmers that a Dutch East India
trading ship had docked and they ought to go barter their produce for goods
brought by boat from who-knows-where.
Kanonkop is one of the real gems from South Africa. Their winemaking
history goes back to 1973 from a commercial perspective.
I had a chance to taste through a range of wines and vintages in early
2014...impressive was how well the Pinotage ages, for example. Their
Pinotage tasted great as a young wine, but a more than 10 year old vintage
was really elegant and remarkably complex.
It is a label which I've found to be reliable...the quality is good and
their two higher-priced wines are gems and of world class quality.
they farm about 100 hectares, just about all of it being planted with red
grapes. This Stellenbosch estate is regarded by many as a reference
point for Pinotage. Their proprietary red wine called "Paul
Sauer" is one of South Africa's most sought-after wines.
It's typically aged in new Nevers oak barrels, so the wine tends to show a
fair bit of woodsy, cedary oak notes on the palate and bouquet.
Cabernet Sauvignon is the base, with a bit of Cab Franc and Merlot.
The vines are 24 years old on average, so they're mature and producing
something like 2 tons per acres. We have the delightful and youthful
2011 in stock. It's 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc and 12%
Matured for 24 months in brand new French oak, so you'll easily detect the
woodsy bouquet of this wine.
Very fine now and yet it can be cellared another decade, if you like.
"Kadette" is a secondary level wine and intended for immediate
drinking, rather than cellaring. The 2014 is a blend of Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It's a
berryish, soft, dry red with fairly low acidity...it's more fruit-driven
though it does get some time in small wood cooperage.
Pinotage is seriously good here...they have really old vines of this variety and
make a deep, dark, woodsy wine. It's a well-made red wine and a good deal
more complex than most Pinotage. Further, it avoids that "burnt
rubber" sort of character which we find from time to time in South
African red wines.
The 2012 has lots of dark berries (blackberry and maybe cranberry) and the brushy,
woodsy notes are interesting and complex. They use a high
percentage of new oak barrels for this wine and yet there's enough Pinotage
here to stand up to the wood.
- Currently available: 2011 Kanonkop "Paul Sauer" $47.99
2014 "Kadette" $13.99
2012 Pinotage Sale Price: $38.99
- A wealthy business man from South Africa started this little enterprise
in 1994. Gerrit T. Ferreira made his money in banking and
insurance. He had purchased a little estate in the
Stellenbosch region as a residential get-away. But it soon became
apparent, given the area was already producing some good wines, that maybe
planting a vineyard would be an interesting idea.
They have several vineyard sites, but the main one is within sniffing
distance of the winery. They have a fair bit of acreage on the
Simonsberg hills, a mere 3 miles from the town of Stellenbosch.
About 60 miles south of the main vineyard site is their
"Siberia" property. This is in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
(Walker Bay area) and there they've planted Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc,
Semillon, Grenache and Shiraz. Their Highland estate (Elgin)
is nearly in between Siberia and the Stellenbosch property and that's
planted to Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc with just a tiny parcel of
The winemaker for this lovely project is Miles Mossop, who's had practical
experiences in France's Rhone Valley, Italy's Sicilia, Australia's Clare
Valley, as well as at the famous Thelema winery in New Zealand. He's
now got more than a dozen harvests under his belt at Tokara and the wines
Tokara also cultivates a number of different types of olives and they
produce several bottlings of oil.
They also have a deli, if you're in the neighborhood and up for a
picnic. Or you can book at table at their fancy little restaurant
where they showcase their wines.
We included a couple of Tokara Sauvignon Blancs in a blind-tasting and the
wines. I liked their Elgin Reserve, but both that and the
entry-level bottling showed nicely.
Of serious quality are their Directors Reserve wines.
- The 2010 Director's Reserve Red is made of fruit grown near the winery
on the Simonsberg hills. It's a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 72 %,
Merlot 15%. Petit Verdot 10% and Malbec 3%.
They do a cold soak prior to the fermentation and then leave the skins in
contact with the wine for a brief period once the fermentation has
completed. About three-quarters of the wine goes into new French oak
and the rest sees seasoned cooperage, also French. We like the mild
notes of allspice and cocoa on this wine. It's a wine that surprises
the average consumer who might be familiar with California and French
wines, as it is worthy of comparison.
- Even more remarkable is the Director's White. It's 74% Sauvignon
Blanc and 24% Semillon, reminding us of our favorite (and now very
expensive) White Bordeaux from Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte. They use
puncheons for fermenting the Sauvignon Blanc and smaller barriques for the
Semillon, with maybe 30% of the wood being brand new. We've had
bottles of this open in our tasting room and it routinely impresses
tasters sufficiently that they're more than willing to part with $37 to
take a bottle (or more) home with them.
Tokara's "white label" Shiraz is another good bottle. It's
blended this vintage with 11% Mourvèdre. Matured for about 18
months in French oak, they use but 10% new cooperage so as to highlight
the dark berry and spice notes. We find it to be perfectly drinkable
now and yet capable of cellaring for another couple of years, though we
don't expect it to grow much.
Currently in stock: 2010 TOKARA SHIRAZ $19.99
2012 TOKARA Director's White $36.99
2010 TOKARA Director's Red $36.99
seen this winery's name mentioned from time to time as one of the prime
Burgundian estates in South Africa.
Finally, years ago, we'd had a chance to taste their wines and these guys certainly
have the right idea about Chardonnay!
They're in a cool climate region called Walker Bay. The growing season
features breezes blowing in off the Atlantic which moderates the
The founder, Tim Hamilton Russell, had been looking for a southerly site
which would moderate the ripening of noble varieties such as Chardonnay,
Pinot Noir and a few others. He purchased 175 hectares and planted a
few with various grapes. In 1991 his son Anthony took over with the
idea of focusing solely on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. He further
designated the winery as an "Estate," which means they cannot
purchase grapes to augment their production. They can only utilize
fruit from their own vineyards.
They have 30 hectares of Chardonnay, spread out amongst some 21 different
The Hamilton Russell team crops its Chardonnay at a rather modest level,
around 2 tons per acre. This, of course, can account for greater
intensity of character in the grapes.
Their soils are stony which may account for the lovely minerality of this
wine. But it's got amazing depth and intensity, featuring a wonderful
toasty character and a hint of smoke. Exceptionally
complete. This will be an eye-opener to folks who are as skeptical
about South African wines as I was...The 2014 continues their tradition of
We should note, parenthetically, that a few years ago, the Chardonnay was
cited by an American wine publication as being on their Top 100 list.
Suddenly the wine became unavailable to us, despite our long-standing
support of this wine. All these "new" accounts were
demanding the wine and, to spread the love, the wine was doled out under the
marketing guise of "building the brand."
As I'm re-writing this entry (in July of 2015), I decided to check a few web
sites and, lo and behold, those companies who were allocated some cases of
this, these days don't bother carrying the current vintage!
Pinot Noir comprises some 22 hectares at Hamilton Russell and this is
scattered over some 8 vineyard sites.
- The 2013 Pinot Noir is quite good. It's really come along nicely the
past several vintages. The wine is remarkably complex, showing dark
cherry and some beet root tones. Medium-bodied and very fine.
Currently in stock: 2014 Chardonnay $32.99 (limited)
2013 Pinot Noir $47.99
may recognize the Bouchard name as it's that of a prominent family in
France's Burgundy region.
Finlayson is a name you may not be familiar with, but Peter Finlayson
spent more than a decade in the cellars at Hamilton Russell, a world-class
winery (noted above).
In 1989 Finlayson and Paul Bouchard built a winery in the same
neighborhood as Hamilton Russell, the Walker Bay region. They're in
a valley called Hemel-en-Aarde (Heaven & Earth) and the winery
specializes in Pinot Noir.
Finlayson is, apparently, a fan of Italian wines and makes a 'minestrone'
blend featuring Sangiovese (he calls the wine Hannibal!), Pinot Noir and
Nebbiolo, along with Shiraz, Mourvedre and Barbera!
But Finlayson makes really nice Chardonnay. It's, for my
taste, not quite as complex as the Hamilton Russell wine, but it is a rather
good bottle of wine. This comes from a site called the Kaaimansgaat
Vineyard from the Overberg appellation which is about an hour's drive east of
the winery. It's at a higher altitude than the vineyards near the
We have the 2011 in stock and this is a wine made along the lines of a White
Burgundy...barrel fermented and left on the spent yeast sediment.
It's still young and they seem to have the idea of making a wine that's going to
grow and blossom with time in the bottle.
The 2012 Sauvignon Blanc carries the Walker Bay appellation and it's a really
nice and distinctive style. You might get the first impression that this
is a somewhat mild New Zealand Sauvignon and that would be a good guess.
But Finlayson typically blends in a touch of Semillon, too, to make a more
We enjoyed a bottle recently with Fish & Chips and it was a good match...
Currently in stock: 2011 BOUCHARD FINLAYSON
CHARDONNAY "Kaaimansgaat Vineyard" $26.99
2011 BOUCHARD FINLAYSON Walker Bay SAUVIGNON BLANC $20.99
historical property traces wine growing back to the 1600s and it was the
source of a world-famous sweet wine in the 1800s.
The property changed hands numerous times and was in serious disrepair
when the current owners purchased it in 1980. It took them until
1986 before they had their first vintage in this modern era of Klein
It's known that there were several types of Muscat cultivated in South
Africa hundreds of years ago and the current owners, the Jooste family,
did extensive research to try to produce a wine similar to the
much-celebrated Vin de Constance of the 18th and 19th centuries.
They think they're cultivating a clone of Muscat (de Frontignan) which
came from vine-stock with roots going back to the original
The wine is remarkable and it's a treat to taste and savor. The
grapes are left on the vine until the shrivel up and dehydrate. They
are not affected by botrytis and the picking tends to take place quite
late in the season, well after the rest of the harvest has been
The juice is macerated with the skins for several days and it's fermented
in two lots: one in stainless steel and one in 500 liter oak
casks. It's slightly more than 12% alcohol, much like a Sauternes
and it has, typically, about 150 grams of sugar per liter. What's
especially amazing is its high level of acidity! This is golden in
color and nicely fragrant, showing aromas reminiscent of lemon/lime and
caramel. For having such residual sugar, you're a bit surprised on
the finish as it's not syrupy at all. Though made of Muscat, it is
not a wine which is "obviously Muscat." This is a far more
subtle wine than typical Muscat.
I've long seen this in the catalogue of the local distributor...and I've
ordered a bottle numerous times in hopes of tasting this historic nectar.
After someone unblocked it at the distributorship, we were finally able to
buy a bottle and evaluate the wine...We tasted it and it was delicious...so we have a few bottles available for
Currently in stock: KLEIN CONSTANTIA "Vin
de Constance" (list $80) SALE $69.99 (500 ml)
you have a quick look at the label for this Rupert wine and the label
reminds you a bit of the one gracing bottles of Lafite Rothschild, well,
Two insanely wealthy families, South Africa's Rupert clan and one of
France's Rothschild's set up a wine company.
There's still a Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons, run by the
"kids" of the late founding fathers.
And while there are wines made under the collaborative brand name, this
enterprise is solely that of the Rupert family.
The late old man Rupert dropped out of college and ran a dry cleaning
store before starting up a little cigarette-making enterprise in a
garage. Rothman's was a brand with which he was affiliated as well
as a company of Swiss luxury goods which had brands such as Cartier,
Alfred Dunhill, Montblanc, Baume & Mercier and few other items under
the corporate umbrella
I believe I did say "insanely wealthy," didn't I?
The Anthonij Rupert wine comes out of an historic farm called L'Ormarins
which the Rupert family bought in 1969. Anthonij Rupert died in a
car crash in 2001 and old man Rupert passed away in 2006, so these days
the eldest son of Anton Rupert, Johann, is at the helm of this
business and a bunch of other concerns.
- To honor his late brother, he created the Anthonij Rupert label.
We have the 2009 vintage of a Bordeaux-styled blend called Optima.
It's comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet
Franc. The three varieties are vinified separately and matured
for about a year and a half in small French oak. Then they assemble
a blend of the three and the blend goes back into wood for another 6
months. Another nice feature is they don't rush the wine to
market...they give it two years in bottle before sending it out of the
The wine displays lots of dark fruit notes...blackcurrant and maybe dark
berry fruit with notes of cedar and mild vanillin. It's quite
drinkable now and rather showy, too.
Currently in stock: ANTHONIJ RUPERT 2009
"OPTIMA" Sale $39.99
- The Cluver family has been farming in the Elgin area of South Africa, some
40 miles southeast of Capetown, since the late 1800s.
In the mid-1980s they began planting some vineyards, finding the region
might be well-suited to certain grape varieties.
- The vineyards are located within a UNESCO World Heritage site, something
called the Kogelberg Biosphere. The Cluver estate comprises something
like 2000 hectares and at least half is set aside for conservation purposes.
We tasted a solid 2009 vintage Chardonnay. The wine is fermented using
indigenous yeasts and nearly half the wine was in brand new French oak, the
rest in second, third and fourth use cooperage. They left the wine on
the spent yeast for nine months and a small percentage underwent malolactic
fermentation, so it's faintly creamy along with the woodsy, apple/pear fruit
and mild stony notes.
- Currently in stock: 2009 CLUVER Chardonnay Sold Out
- Located some 15 kilometers from Stellenbosch and just five kilometers
inland from False Bay, Meerlust has been run by the Myburgh family for 8 generations.
The current owner studied at Germany's famed Geisenheim wine school and is said to
have spent some time at Chateau Lafite-Rothschild in Bordeaux.
For 25 vintages, a fellow from Friuli, Giorgio Dalla Cia was the
winemaker. These days he's busy with his own little wine & grappa
Meerlust's wines are overseen by Chris Williams who had studied at the
University of Michel Rolland in France. Luckily, he doesn't seem to
put Rolland's fingerprints on the Meerlust wines and these remain rather
"Old World" in style.
- Dalla Cia was well-versed in Merlot, as that grape
is a mainstay in Northeastern Italy. He set up a good protocol during
his management of the winery. Williams has built on that
success. Meerlust's Merlot is a terrific wine and they fortify it with
a small percentage of Cabernet Franc. The 2007 vintage is nicely-oaked
and shows a bit of wood spice along with the mildly plummy Merlot.
- They are most famed for
their Bordeaux-styled blend called "Rubicon", not to be confused with the wine
made in the Napa Valley by Niebaum-Coppola. The 2009, quite a good
bottle of wine, is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and
1% Petit Verdot.
French oak barrels,
mostly new. They use a few different types of wood, adding to the
It's an excellent bottle of wine and one worth brown-bagging for your wine
expert friends. If they're good tasters, they'll likely peg it as
Bordeaux or fancy Cabernet.
- Currently available: Meerlust 2009 "Rubicon"
Meerlust 2007 Merlot $27.99
is a fellow whose family owns Rust-en-Vrede winery and Els would be famous
golfer Ernie Els.
Ernie Els own wine costs so much, you have to earn as much money as, say,
Tiger Woods to be able to buy the wine regularly.
The collaboration between Els and Engelbrecht is a tad less pricey.
The press releases all tout Mr. Els' taste for Bordeaux and Mr.
Engelbrecht's liking of Shiraz. The resulting blend is now made at
their own winery, with the Bordeaux varieties dominating.
We found the 2004 to be quite good. It shows nice dark fruit elements,
with the Cabernet dominating. There's a nice bit of wood here, too, as
we find notes of cedar in the mix. It's medium-full on the palate and
quite drinkable now, though it probably has a number of years of cellaring
potential. Stylish and worthy of comparison to a good Napa
Currently in stock: 2004 ENGELBRECHT ELS Sold Out
Sonnenberg family has owned this estate since the 1940s. It's in
Wellington, about a 45 minute drive from Cape Town.
They have a hotel, restaurant and conference center, so the property is set
up for hospitality. And they also make wine.
They had hired a winemaker who had come up with some innovations in vinifying
various wines and this brand has been identified with producing a Pinotage
displaying a coffee/mocha sort of character. The winemaker has since
departed and his "recipe" is now being used by other wineries, as it's
proven quite popular.
Apparently the production technique centers on fermenting the fruit with
rather heavily toasted wood barrel staves which are placed in the stainless
steel fermentation tank. It does make for a rather showy wine and one
which avoids the burnt rubber tire aspects of so many South African Pinotage
The first vines on the property were planted in 1970 and in 2000 they built a
winery. The first vintage was 2001 and the first vintage of Pinotage won
the Paul Sauer Trophy for best wooded Pinotage. And wooded it is, though
it's not a wine which displays lumber-yard fragrances. Instead, it has the
aromatics of our neighbor's coffee shop, Il Piccolo Cafe.
The wine is rather smooth, too. You might try one just to see how a wine
tastes that's got the winemaker's fingerprints all over it.
- Currently in stock: DIEMERSFONTEIN 2011 Pinotage Sold Out
- RUST en VREDE
- The Engelbrecht family runs this historic property, a place in the
Stellenbosch. The winery specializes in red wines and Jannie Engelbrecht, a former
rugby player, clings to the idea of maturing the wines for four years before releasing
Their "Estate" red wine is the top bottling, a blend of Cabernet,
Shiraz and Merlot. It is matured for a bit less than two years in all new French oak
The Cabernet is a bit earthy and has a smoky quality
which Rust en Vrede fans really like. The Syrah is much in the same
style, showing a woodsy note which I find sort of
"burnt." Famous wines, however.
- Currently in stock:
2010 Rust en Vrede Estate $44.99
2011 Rust en Vrede Merlot $18.99
in the Klein Karoo region is the town of Calitzdorp (I'm not making up these
names...that's what these places are called!), a region famous for its
One of the most well-known producers is Die Krans, a winery owned by the Nel
family. They've been in this region of South Africa since about
1890. Since 1985 they've cultivated a range of grapes more commonly
found in Portugal's Douro Valley.
Apparently the Nel brothers have done some industrial espionage, visiting
Porto and the Douro Valley to learn some of the secrets of Port. Their
wines are highly regarded in South Africa as some of best dessert wines
We've had their basic Port-styled wines in the shop and they're rather nice,
certainly competing against the same level of wines from the top Port
- Currently available: DIE KRANS RUBY PORT $12.50
Rustenberg estate has history going back to the late 1600s. Wine has
been made there since the 1780s and they've been bottling their own since
1892. Whatever the history, they've been at it a long time.
In the 1940s, the Barlow family bought Rustenberg and a neighboring estate
which was originally part of Rustenberg (the old Schoongezicht estate...I'm
glad they kept the name Rustenberg!).
Simon Barlow runs the property and they make quite a range of
Most outstanding is their "Peter Barlow" bottling, a special bottling
of Cabernet Sauvignon that's deep, dark and rich. It's been given the
"royal treatment" with respect to oak...something like 70% of the
barrels were brand new. This is showy now and ought to continue to develop
(and soften) over the next ten years.
The 2010 John Merriman is a Bordeaux-styled blend that goes head-to-head
against Napa's top wines. It's predominantly Cabernet and Merlot with a
few drops of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. It sees a fair bit
of new French oak and we like the woodsy style of this wine. It's quite
drinkable now and the modest price makes it a wine worth considering when a
steak dinner is on the horizon.
- Currently in stock: 2004 "Peter Barlow" (Cabernet)
2010 "John Merriman" (Bordeaux blend) $29.99
2013 Chardonnay $22.99
I believe this is a bottle-fermented bubbly based on Chardonnay, with
Pinot Noir, Pinotage and Pinot Meunier...It's a perfectly pleasant, fairly
dry, mildly zesty bubbly.
Currently in stock: VILLIERA BRUT $17.99
Boekenhout is some sort of tree found in South Africa and its wood is often
used to make furniture, hence the various wooden chairs in the logo of the
The farm has been in the Franschhoek valley
for hundreds of years, but this little winemaking enterprise only got
started in the 1990s. The winemaker (and part-owner) is Marc
Kent. The first vintage amounted to a few thousand bottles...now
they're making well over a million, mostly under the Porcupine Ridge label.
We've found their Syrahs to be noteworthy. The vineyard is in the
Wellington area and the soil is decomposed granite and produces a really
intense Syrah...they pick at various stages of ripeness to help make a more
complete wine. The earlier-picked fruit probably accounts for the
spicy notes and the riper portion is likely the more berryish and bigger
We have the 2013...nicely violety and dark berries...
There's a wine called "The Chocolate Block" and it's a Syrah-based
blend. It's 72% Syrah (not from the same site as their heavy-hitter
Syrah bottling, though), 13% Cabernet, 7% Grenache. 6% Cinsault and 2%
It's a big, dark, fruit bomb of a wine...
Semillon is a nicely complex wine. First, it's made from seriously old
vines. One block was planted in 1902 and the other in 1942! The
wine starts its fermentation in tank and is quickly transferred to French
oak. It undergoes a malolactic fermentation in barrel, as well and it
stays in a very cold cellar in wood for about a year.
It's got streaks of citrusy tones along with some peachy qualities...nice
and dry with a bit of the 'waxy' character typical of Semillon.
It's quite a rarity!
Currently in stock: 2013 Syrah SALE
2012 Chocolate Block Sale $31.99
- 2013 Semillon $37.99
Agter-Paarl region is located approximately 36 miles east (and a bit north)
of Cape Town.
The MAN Family Wines enterprise began when two brothers and a buddy of
theirs began making a few hundred cases of wine back in 2001.
José Conde and Tyrrel and Philip Myburgh embarked on a little
"weekend" hobby project. José and Tyrrel already had winery
jobs, while Phillip is involved as some sort of attorney.
They make close to 200,000 cases of wine and work with some 30
growers. Most of the vineyards are dry-farmed and they're in an area
that doesn't get much rain. All their growers, we're told, farm
sustainably and have some sort of certification.
The MAN name comes from the men having named the place after the
wives: Marie, Anette and Nicky.
Here in California, back in the 1970s, wineries made beautifully
fruity Chenin Blanc in places such as the Napa Valley and Dry Creek
Valley. But as demand for other, most costly types of wines became de
rigueur, Chenin Blanc became relegated to places less hospitable in terms of
In this Agter-Paarl area, the combination of soil, climate and head-pruned vines
produces relatively meager crop levels, allowing a winemaker to produce
something of more interesting quality. And that's what these guys are
doing. Combine that with sensible pricing and we are delighted to be able
to offer such a delightful wine at a most attractive price.
The wine is from the 2014 harvest. It's fermented somewhat cool, but not
ice cold. Only free-run juice as they don't like the quality of the Chenin
Blanc that's been squeezed to a fare-thee-well. The wine is kept in
stainless steel...no wood. They leave it on the spent yeast for a few
months and the resulting wine is a brilliant ten-buck bottle of dry
Most old-timers think of Chenin Blanc as a fruity wine with a bit of
sweetness. This has but a few grams-per-liter of residual sugar and it's
below the threshold of what most people can taste. In fact, it's drier
than many a California Chardonnay and, disturbingly, a number of high-priced
Napa Valley Cabernets.
We like the melon and peach sort of fruit tones here and we are
especially delighted to find such a cool wine for a mere ten bucks.
Currently in stock: 2014 MAN Chenin Blanc
Leopard's Leap project takes its name from a leap of real leopards in
South Africa's Franschhoek Valley, about an hour's drive east of Cape
The brand is run under the management of Hein Koegelenberg, who's also the
head of the La Motte winery (his wife's parents bought La Motte some years
The idea of Leopard's Leap is to produce modestly-priced, well-made wines
which are everyday drinkers, not wines for collectors.
We tasted a few different wines and found this Sauvignon Blanc to be
nicely made and having good varietal character. It's a blend of
grapes from Perdeberg (Agter-Paarl) and Durbanville (northeast of Cape
Town and planted with grapes and wheat).
It was fermented in stainless steel tanks at low temps to capture the
fruit. The wine shows some mildly grassy and lime-like citrus
tones. They left the wine on the spent yeast for a few months to
give it a bit more body, but it's still a nice little light, crisp and dry
It's not a fancy or complex wine, but it's not intended to be fancy or
You can pair it with seafood, sushi, a shrimp salad, etc.
Currently in stock: 2014 LEOPARD'S LEAP Sauvignon
- Sauvignon Blanc from this property seems
to be on every wine geek's list of "gotta-have" South African wines.
The first vintages we tried, several years ago, were not as impressive as
its press clippings led us to believe.
Some vintages showed improvement and we thought this was quite good, but the
past few bottlings we've tasted have missed the mark and not to our
taste. We preferred the more intensely herbal, citrusy notes of past
vintages. Lately the wine seems to have less focus and less character.
Formerly owned by Larry Jacobs, the property was purchased by Fred
Wypkema of "Hydro Holdings," some big corporate concern. Some were afraid
this would adversely affect the wines at Mulderbosch. However, they'd retained the
services of Mike Dobrovic who had been the winemaker since 1991 or 1992.
The winery was sold in 2011 to Terroir Selections, the Charles Banks wine
company. They own California brands such as Mayacamas, Qupe and Sandhi
and the current winemaker is a fellow named Adam Mason.
- Currently available:
Need to taste something worthy...stay tuned...
South African Wines By Special Order