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More Sauvignon
Blancs !
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MURRIETA'S
WELL
 The
Livermore Valley, located a short drive from our shop in Burlingame, is
not on the radar screen of most wine aficionados. The region was,
decades ago, as prestigious as the Napa Valley and was the home to two
prominent wineries.
In the 1960s and 1970s, anybody who knew anything about California wine
was buying Wente Brothers white wines and Concannon's reds from
Livermore.
In visiting Livermore several times over the past decade, or so, we've
found very few wines to be of particular interest. Many wineries
seem to market themselves more as places to host a wedding than as serious
wine growers or wine makers. The Wood Family winery is one of our
favorites, though.
With Wente and Concannon, these days, making wine for the marketing
departments, we're pleased to report about a wine from Murrieta's
Well. Now this place is actually owned by Wente and yet it produces
a stellar Sauvignon Blanc-based white wine comparable with any produced
along the West Coast.
The property was owned by a French-born fellow named Louis Mel. It
was called "El Mocho Vineyard." The neighbor, Charles
Wetmore, who owned Cresta Blanca, traveled to France to visit the estate
of the Marquis de Lur-Saluces at Chateau d'Yquem. He obtained
cuttings of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle which he brought
back to Livermore, splitting them with Louis Mel. The Mel vineyard
was eventually sold to the Wente family and Lur-Saluces came to pay a
visit. He wanted to see "how his children were
doing." Lur-Saluces reportedly was impressed with the
remarkable quality of Wente's wine. Well, that was ages ago.
But the legacy, apparently, lives on. I bought a bottle of this to see if the wine was as good away from Livermore as it tasted
on a tour through the region. I had been to visit a favorite Pessac-Léognan
estate, Smith-Haut-Lafitte earlier that year and brought the bottle
along to evaluate with my traveling companion from that journey.
He was impressed by the Murrieta's Well wine. It's about 65%
Sauvignon and 35% Sémillon. Each fraction is aged separately in oak
before blending. About 60% of the blend undergoes a malolactic
fermentation, yet the wine is still rather crisp and tangy. A bottle
of Smith-Haut-Lafitte now runs about $70 and it may be worth its lofty
price. Murrieta's Well, on the other hand, can be purchased in our
shop for $19.99. For most customers, that's an easy decision.
Oh, the estate takes its name from the legendary outlaw (or patriot,
depending upon your perspective) from the 1850s. Joaquin Murrieta is
said to have led his band of desperados around California shortly after
the Gold Rush and stopped regularly at this site to 'water' the horses he
was accused of stealing.
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Currently in stock: MURRIETA'S WELL 2007 Livermore
Valley White Meritage $19.99
- THE OJAI VINEYARD
2008 Santa Barbara County Sauvignon Blanc Sold
Out
 Adam Tolmach is
one of the leading winemakers in the Santa Barbara County area. Never
mind that his winery is actually located in neighboring Ventura County.
Adam has made Sauvignon Blanc for many years. More than a decade ago
the wine had a substantial percentage of Semillon and oak, his wines
emulating some top white Bordeaux. I'd say recent vintages have been
more along the lines of Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé wines.
The grapes come from the Westerly vineyard, which is not in the western part
of the Santa Ynez Valley but in the eastern portion of that
appellation. Adam gets them to farm it the way he prefers, viewing the
wine more as an artistic endeavor rather than as a hugely commercial
one. The production per acre is rather small, but it does allow the
grape to shine and bring along with it some "terroir."
The 2008 vintage is the current, recent release and, much like last year's
wine, this is superb. It's quite dry and has more of an herbal streak
than citrus. You can't mistake this for anything but Sauvignon
Blanc. That said, it's not a wine for the average wine drinker...it
may actually put off some tasters since the character of the Sauvignon is
rather intense.
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MAURITSON
 The
Mauritson family has acreage in Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley. Ages
ago, it became apparent that this region was particularly well-suited to
Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc. But many of the wineries which grow
Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek now augment their wine with fruit from other
areas.
We like the Mauritson's wine because it tastes like Sauvignon Blanc from the
Dry Creek Valley. As it should. There's a grapefruity and stony,
minerally element we don't often find in California Sauvignons.
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- Currently in stock: 2008 MAURITSON Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon
Blanc $13.99
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SELENE
 The Selene
label is that of winemaker Mia Klein. She's worn a lot of winemaking
hats, being affiliated with wineries such as Etude, Dalla Valle, Chappellet,
Robert Pepi and now she's at Fisher Vineyards.
Her Sauvignon Blanc comes from the famous Hyde Vineyards in Carneros.
This vineyard features a special clone of Sauvignon called Musqué.
It's said to be less vegetative in fragrance and flavor and more fruity:
think tangy nectarine and grapefruit. Ms. Klein gives the wine a bit
of wood, but it's not the predominant character of the wine.
Some of the juice goes into oak and some into stainless steel. All
remains on the lees for several months to give the wine more richness and
dimension.
Selene Sauvignon is fairly full and intense, so pairing it with
well-seasoned white meats or seafood is ideal. The 2008 is
superb...I've shared bottles of previous vintages with visiting winemakers from Europe who have
been "wowed" by this wine.
- Currently in stock: 2008 Selene Sauvignon Blanc (List $29)
SALE $25.99
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CLARK CLAUDON
 The
Clark Claudon label is better known for its Cabernet Sauvignon wine than
for Sauvignon Blanc.
I've tasted this wine on several occasions and found it to be a most
enchanting bottle of wine. The fruit comes from vineyards managed by
Clark & Claudon's son (Clark Vineyard Management). It's entirely
Sauvignon Blanc and one of the two clones is the aromatic Sauvignon Musqué.
We find citrusy, grapefruity notes and a peach-like tone in the
wine. It's dry, but not especially acidic...I almost wish it had a
touch more of a 'bite' to it. But it's a lovely wine, especially
paired with seafood.
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Currently in stock: CLARK CLAUDON Napa "Wild
Iris" Sauvignon Blanc $24.99
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YORKVILLE
 Ed
and Deborah Wallo purchased a lovely piece of dirt in Mendocino County in
the 1980s. They'd read about the place in a Sunset Magazine article
and purchased 110 acres. They then set about resuscitating the
few acres of grapes on the estate and planting more. Today they farm
about 30 acres of vines.
Yorkville is in the Anderson Valley and it's currently home to a handful
of vintners. It's 14 miles southeast of Boonville so it's a place
unknown to most people.
The Wallos have been farming organically for decades, too.
They even have some sheep which roam around their property in a small
effort to manage the weeds!
Sauvignon Blanc from Yorkville has often been good. We
have the 2006 presently and it's distinctively different from the Sauvignons
from Napa, Sonoma and the Central Coast. The Wallos typically produce a
wine we find more in the style of Bordeaux than Loire, though this vintage is
100% Sauvignon and has no Semillon (which they also grow).
The juice is fermented in oak, mostly French barrels and then the spent yeast is
stirred regularly following the fermentation. The wood is evident as just
a note in this symphony and you won't find it excessive. The aromas
have an herbal character with a hint of lime and some minerality. It's a
medium-bodied dry white and perfect for seafood, especially dishes featuring a
bit of tarragon.
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Currently in stock: 2006 YORKVILLE CELLARS
Sauvignon Blanc $14.99
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CLOUDY BAY
 This winery became an overnight success back in the
mid-1980s on the strength of good wines and favorable reviews from some important critics.
This winery is the leading name in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, though many New Zealanders
are curious as to why the wine is SO popular, since they often feel others do as
fine a job with the grape. Well, when you're identified as the "best" (and the
first), people tend to want to buy your wine. Imported to the U.S. market by the Clicquot
Champagne folks, this wine is sold, for the most part, to those establishments which
manage to move a lot of Clicquot Champagne. We like the Cloudy Bay wines and enjoy, from
time to time, their Sauvignon Blanc. Some describe it as having the
"gooseberry," citrus and lychee fragrances and flavors which are typical of New
Zealand's Sauvignons.
Currently available: 2008 Sauvignon Blanc $26.99
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MULDERBOSCH
 This
is a highly-acclaimed Sauvignon Blanc estate in South Africa.
Their wine is somewhat akin to New Zealand Sauvignons, though there's a
stony element which may remind you of Sancerre or Pouilly-Fume.
The wine is modest in terms of alcohol and oak is not a feature here.
Currently in stock: 2009 MULDERBOSCH Sauvignon Blanc $19.99
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ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY
 Mr.
Mondavi is to be credited with Sauvignon Blanc being as popular as it is in the U.S.
market. He made Sauvignon in 1966 as a dry wine. In 1967 he made a sweet
wine. He came up with the name "Fumé Blanc" and his wine was instantly
popular, a finer alternative to the white wines of those days: Grey Riesling, Chenin
Blanc, Green Hungarian and California "Chablis."
Over the years they've
continued to make good "Fumé Blanc," adding a "Reserve" bottling and
a regional bottling to their line-up. Most stunning is a Fumé Blanc from an old
vineyard called "To Kalon," which has been planted since 1868 and was planted by
Henry Crabb. Mondavi claims it is the oldest Sauvignon Blanc vineyard in
California. They made a special bottling called "I-Block" amounting to but
a few hundred cases. Much in the style of a top white Bordeaux, this is excellent,
but expensive. It's a far cry from the watery wine they make out in Lodi's
"Woodbridge" area!
Mondavi raised the price from an ambitious $50 to $75 and we lost interest
in the wine...I noticed the distributor no longer even offers this special
bottling, so I suppose the Mondavi folks are drinking it all themselves.
- Currently in stock: 2002 Mondavi "To Kalon - I Block"
Fumé Blanc
Sold Out
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- TEMENT
2005 Austrian SAUVIGNON BLANC "Zieregg" $54.99
 I
am certain that few people walking through our doors has even the slightest
clue that some of the world's best Sauvignon Blanc wines are made in
Austria's Steiermark region.
An Italian friend who lives in the Alto Adige (they call it the Sudtirol)
told me he organizes a blind-tasting of Sauvignons every year and Tement's
wine usually wins.
Not surprised.
Tement makes great Sauvignons. He has two or three of them. The normal
bottling is nearly as aromatic and certainly as distinctive as a good New
Zealand bottling. Dry without being overly tart or lean.
The special bottling is called Zieregg and it's as costly as some of Didier
Daguenau's Pouilly-Fumé wines and certainly in the same quality
range. This bottling features a nice bit of wood, too. Not too
much though. It's not well-distributed these days, but every once in a
while we get a call from someone who "knows." If you've
adventuresome, you may wish to join this exclusive little 'club'.
2005 is the current vintage.
Splendid, too.
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- NEUMEISTER
- The Neumeister family has about 50 acres of vineyards in Austria's
Steiermark region. Located in the town of Straden, the, this is very
close to Slovenia and Hungary.
Soil types here tend toward volcanic and basalt. The rather cool
climate produces marvelous Sauvignon Blanc wines and we're fond of the
Neumeister's efforts.
Their "Klassik" Sauvignon Blanc is a delight.
We currently have the 2003 vintage in stock and it's a
remarkably fresh, citrusy and dry wine. The grape dominates as oak is not
a feature of this wine. This is a good match for all sorts of seafood, but
it can be partnered with well-seasoned, spicy foods, too.
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Currently in stock: 2003 Neumeister Steierische
Klassik Sauvignon Sold Out
The Neumeister family has a modern tasting room, so if you find yourself in
their neighborhood, do stop by.
They own a small "inn" called Schlafgut Saziani
which is most comfortable. It's reasonably-priced, too.
Their restaurant was closed when we visited, but it's apparently a
well-regarded, somewhat fancy place which is frequently written up in the
various gourmet guides.
Here's the website: http://www.neumeister.cc/en_index.asp
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CLOS HENRI 2006
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $22.99
 There
has been quite a flood of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc wines arriving in
our market. It's no secret that many of the wines produced there are
excellent expressions of the grape.
A real validation for the Marlborough region was the arrival of the
Bourgeois family from France's Loire Valley. Their arrival was
rather like the Baron Rothschild's or Christian Moueix' interest in owning
a piece of the Napa Valley far from their Bordeaux homes.
Bourgeois is the leading ambassador for the Sauvignons from various top
Loire appellations, especially that of Sancerre.
The land purchased by the Bourgeois family was virgin vineyard
territory, featuring three soil types. They're planting several hectares
annually and expect this to be a 12 year project before reaching the finish
line. They expect to plant about 65 hectares of the 100 hectare estate.
We find the Clos Henri wine to combine elements of top Loire
Valley Sauvignons with top New Zealand wines. Having notes of each makes
for an unusually complex bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, no matter the wine's
birthplace. We like the minerality of this wine, as well as the
spicy pineapple and citrus tones. It's got more 'weight' than your average
New Zealand Sauvignon, yet it's not as potent as most California
Sauvignons.
We're big fans and delighted to have some bottles to share with our
customers. Don't miss this. I included the 2006 in a
blind-tasting with 7 Loire Valley Sauvignons. I ranked this in my top 3
and did not find it 'stood out' as something particularly different as would
most New Zealand wines.
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ROCHIOLI
 The
Rochioli story goes back to the late 1930s when they purchased some land
in Sonoma's Russian River Valley. For years they sold grapes to
local wineries. When it became fashionable to produce "single
vineyard" wines with the grower identified on the label, the Rochioli
name became well known for Pinot Noir.
Like many growers, they saw the prices for wines made from their own fruit
and decided they ought to use those grapes for their own brand. And
so, the Rochioli Winery was born in the 1980s. Teaming up with a
national marketing group, prices have escalated to the point where we no
longer ask "What does this cost?," but "how much is the
ransom?"
Sauvignon Blanc from this producer, though, is quite good. It
displays herbal and citrusy notes which makes it a good partner for
seafood...especially dishes seasoned with lemon grass, cilantro, basil or
mint.
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Currently in stock: 2008 ROCHIOLI Sauvignon Blanc
$39.99
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FRITZ
 The Fritz
family purchased a Dry Creek area property in the late 1970s for weekend
getaways. Seeing so much viticultural activity in the area, they
jumped into the grape-growing pool and soon found themselves taking a dive
into winemaking.
Over the past several decades, the winery has offered some very good
wines. But it had been inconsistent in terms of quality/price ratios
and so it's never really established itself as a great brand. Today
we're seeing some very good wines and they're offered at sensible prices.
We have a very good Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc from
Fritz. It's predominantly vinified in stainless steel, though they give a
small percentage of the wine a few months aging in rather neutral oak
barrels. The resulting wine displays good varietal character, showing
notes of grapefruit and sweet lemon. It's dry and relatively low in
alcohol as California wines go. And it's a good value.
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Currently in stock: 2007 FRITZ Russian River Valley
SAUVIGNON BLANC $13.99
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