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GIROLAMO DORIGO

We've been fans of the Dorigo wines since "discovering" them back in the mid-1980s.  I had attended VinItaly and was scouting for wines two decades ago when I tasted the most remarkable portfolio of this Friulian estate.  

They have been making good wines for many years (Girolamo is the "old timer" on the left, along with his son Alessio and daughter Alessandra).  I recall a magazine article about Dorigo and how he was teased by people calling him "Monsieur" since he was such a fan of good French wine.  He makes a delightful Bordeaux blend and some of his other reds actually resemble nice Bordeaux wines.  Dorigo also produces a Champagne-like spumante as well as nicely-oaked Chardonnay and Pinot Nero.

They have two vineyard sites.  One is called Ronc de Juri, the name Juri referring to the family which owned the place for several generations before Dorigo got there.  The other vineyard is Montsclapade which refers to the "divided" mountain or hill.

Dorigo makes an amazing array of wines.  From bone dry, bottle-fermented bubbly to dry whites to bold reds and golden dessert wines.

We recently found the dry white wine from the Ribolla Gialla grape to be especially interesting and price-worthy.  This grape variety has a very long history in this region and there are references to it going back to the 12th century!  

The grape is typically planted in soil that's known as "ponca," a stratification of marl and sand with a base of lime.   It was, according to the history books, a grand wine and quite popular for hundreds of years.  All sorts of fairly famous characters of the day were offered Ribolla.  Imagine the ocean of pretty ordinary Chardonnay that's made in California as the  white wine that's fashionable today.  Some might claim humanity has taken a step (or two) backward since the days when Ribolla was the wine of kings, dukes and emperors!

The various, famous vintners who practice traditional "Slovenian" vinification are said to produce wines which can age magnificently for decades.  Dorigo makes one that's a delight in its youth, the wine being fermented in stainless steel and left on the spent yeast for several months.  The grape is known for its racy acidity and we suspect that's one reason we enjoy this so much.  It's perfect partnered with seafood, from Asian-styled plates to something as simple as fried calamari.  You'll find a minerality similar to Sauvignon wines from France's Loire Valley or Chardonnays from Chablis.  There's nothing quite like this made locally.


Most Americans are unaware that Friuli produces a considerable amount of Merlot.  Its Bordeaux 'cousins', Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, are also prominent in the region.  (Old vineyards of Cabernet Franc are thought to actually be Carmenere.  Interesting, since in Chile, what they thought was Merlot is actually the Carmenere variety!)  Since we first tasted Dorigo's Cabernet Franc in the late 1980s, they've figured out how to cultivate the grapes to obtain more fruity notes and less vegetal elements.  The 2006 is fermented in stainless steel and then matured for a few months in seasoned barriques.  The wine is a real challenger to Loire Valley Cabernet Franc wines and unusually complex.  We like the red fruit elements and the hint of spice in the wine.  It's medium-bodied and beautifully balanced.  You might even use the word "finesse" to describe this.

Currently in stock:  2007 DORIGO Ribolla Gialla SALE $19.99
2006 DORIGO CABERNET FRANC  SALE $23.99

Team Dorigo 2008
Alessandra, Girolamo and Alessio


Team Dorigo 2009

VENICA & VENICA

We've long been fans of the wines of the Venica family.  When we began exploring Friuli in the 1980s, Venica was one of the leading producers of white wines.  The estate dates back to the 1930s, but it was in the mid-1970s when the two Venica sons took over for their father.  Now, 30 years later, the new generation of the Venica family is involved, though Gianni and Giorgio still hold the reins.

I've found their red wines to be perfectly pleasant, but overshadowed, frankly, by their white wines.  

 

It's been years since we've had their wines in the shop.  I was amused to see the last vintage we carried was 1993...they had an inefficient importer who jacked-up the prices and we simply could not bring these wines to our customers.

One of the Venica sons finally changed importers and we hope this will help improve their sales.  The prices for their new wines are much more sensible.  

Of the new arrivals, we've chosen a couple of wines.  While they make a perfectly nice Pinot Grigio, we're more enamored with their 2006 Tocai Friulano.
This wine comes from well-established vineyards.  The youngest vines are about 30 years of age and the oldest were planted just after World War II.  Here's a wine with bright apple and mildly floral notes.  It really captures the character of this Friulano specialty.  We like it as a cocktail white and it's perfect with a really sweet wedge of melon draped with prosciutto from San Daniele (if you can find it...if not, Parma will have to suffice!).

The winery is probably most famed for its Sauvignon Blanc wines.  

We chose their Ronco del Cero bottling. This wine captures the bright, mildly herbal character of good Sauvignon.  It's dry, but less steely than a crisply-edged Sancerre, for example.  The 2006 is a blend of five different clonal selections of Sauvignon, as Venica seeks to produce as complex a wine as possible.  Oak is not the featured element here, but instead, the Sauvignon is in the spotlight.  It's dry and medium-bodied...very fine!

 

Currently in stock:  2006 VENICA & VENICA Tocai Friulano Currently Sold Out
2006 VENICA & VENICA Sauvignon "Ronco del Cero "  Currently sold out

JERMANN

Wine grower and winemaker Silvio Jermann is a living legend.

Italy had long been viewed as 'merely' a red wine-producing country, but several decades ago, Jermann was making a name for himself and putting white wine in front of skeptical wine drinkers who were certain Italy only made red wines and, perhaps, some nice, fruity Muscats.  The family traces its roots back to Austria and Silvio's great grandfather who moved to Friuli in 1881.

Silvio studied winemaking at two famous schools.  He graduated from both the Scuola Enologica in Conegliano as well as the Istituto Agrario in San Michele all'Adige.  Obviously the fellow learned something.

Over the years Jermann's little domain has blossomed remarkably.  Today the vineyard holdings amount to nearly 200 acres!  They produce about 600,000 bottles annually, so the place is no longer a small, little "Mom & Pop" winery.   Despite the level of production, overall quality remains high and many view some of the wines produced by Jermann as reference points.

 

The new Jermann facility...

The wine called Vintage Tunina is rather a calling card for Jermann.  Its first year of production was 1973.  I understand the name "Tunina" refers to a lover of Casanova's who was of "humble" heritage and a housekeeper for a wealthy Venetian family.  It's also a nickname for "Antonia" and someone of that name is said to have owned the vineyard way back when...
The wine comes from a vineyard called the Ronco del Fortino and it's an interesting and unique blend of grapes.  Jermann incorporates familiar-to-the-world Chardonnay and Sauvignon with some typically 'local,' Friulano grapes:  Malvasia, Ribolla and Picolit.  The wine sees a bit of wood, though it's not a woody or oaky wine...
You'll find this wine on most wine lists in top restaurants around Italy, whether or not the dining establishment is close to Friuli.  
Now most of Jermann's neighbors make a proprietary wine, too, having seen the price for Tunina.  Imitation is, after all, a form of flattery.


Jermann also dabbles in Chardonnay.  The first vintages were labeled "Where Dreams have no end," a bit of poetic license lifted from the musical group U-2 and a tune called "Where the Streets Have No Name."   Then the wine, after a number of years of production, was called "Were Dreams, not it's just wine!"  Today it's being labeled as "W....Dreams........"   I've tasted this from time to time and find the wine to be perfectly nice, but I've not been enthusiastic enough to buy some for the shop.



While 20 years ago, "Soave" was the popular choice for Italian white wine, today it seems Pinot Grigio is the best seller.
Jermann's is quite good.  The wine comes from two vineyard sites and it's fermented in stainless steel tanks to retain its bright fruit.  The juice, as we understand it, gets a bit of skin contact, but not to the exaggerated degree which some artisan producers (these days) find to be so fashionable. 
We like it's freshness, dryness and crispness.  The aromas are bright, appley and the wine is "Granny Smith" tart on the palate.
It had been available in the market with a list price in the $40 neighborhood, but as customers seem to have moved out of that 'town,' the importer has re-assessed and re-priced.  We have a very attractive and sensible price for you.

Jermann has long been cultivating a tiny parcel of a rare grape called Picolit.  He includes a few drops in Vintage Tunina and Capo Martino, but decided to make the traditional sweet wine from Picolit.    This vine produces a rather sparse crop and it's a lot of work to produce and costly, as well.  The late Luigi Veronelli likened Picolit wines to France's top Sauternes, Château d'Yquem.  I won't make that comparison, but the Jermann Picolit is delicious and has a peach note and a woodsy tone.  It will pair handsomely with foie gras, but it's wonderful with fruit desserts.

Jermann makes some other interesting proprietary wines:

CAPO MARTINO comes from a vineyard of the same name and it's a blend of Tocai, Pinot Bianco, Malvasia, Picolit and Ribolla Gialla.  This is matured in wood...

VINNAE is a white that's either entirely Ribolla Gialla or based on Ribolla with a drop of Tocai Friulano and Riesling Renano.

MJZZU BLAU & BLAU is a red wine based on Blaufränkisch and Pinot Nero.  In Friuli, Blaufränkisch  is known locally as "Franconia."  

RED ANGEL is a Pinot Nero wine...while PIGNACOLUSSE is red made entirely of the Pignolo grape.

Jermann also makes Sauvignon, Riesling and Pinot Bianco.

Currently in stock:  2005 JERMANN "Vintage Tunina"  $59.99
2007 JERMANN PINOT GRIGIO (list $40) SALE $25.99
2006 JERMANN VINO DOLCE  $59.99 (375ml)
We can special order other Jermann wines for you...by the bottle, if you like.

 

 

 

THURNHOF

Andreas Berger is the owner and winemaker at this tiny Bolzano-area estate in the Alto Adige.  He cultivates about 3.5 hectares of vines including Cabernet, Goldmuskateller, Sauvignon Blanc and Lagrein.

The place gets the name "Thurnhof" since there was a tower once upon a time.

Here's an old photo of the place.

The vinification cellar is small, tidy and efficient.

Since he also makes some Cabernet, there's a cellar with small French oak barrels.

Thurnhof is a member of a small group of producers whose aim is "quality."  They have a tasting panel and wines are submitted for the right to have this curious logo incorporated on the bottle.

The Lagrein "Merlau" comes from a small parcel which is just south of Bolzano in an area known as Agruzzo.  There's a cooling influence in this site due to the confluence of a couple of rivers.  Berger cultivates both clones of Lagrein and this version, vinified for immediate drinking, is made of "Lagrein a grappolo corto."  Oak is not noticeable here as the wine is matured for a few months in large cooperage and then in small, third passage barriques (so these are rather neutral in terms of wood).  

We like the plummy, violet-like aromas and flavors of this medium-bodied red.  It's the sort of wine which shows nicely at cool cellar temperature.  You can chill it for an hour in the 'fridge and pair this with white meats, pastas or red meat dishes.   Drinking it over the next year or so is ideal.

Thurnhof also produces a dynamite dry white wine made of Muscat.  It's fresh, green, grapey and wonderfully fruity.  I even used it to make a sorbet, adding grated lime zest and some freshly minced cilantro...fantastic!  Pairing this with fresh asparagus is ideal, too.

Currently in stock:  2007 Thurnhof "Lagrein Merlau" $19.99
2008 Thurnhof Goldmuskateller $19.99

 

Andreas opens another bottle...

 

 

 

 

GINI

With a couple of notable producers no longer labeling their "Soave" wines as "Soave," we're happy to see the wines of Sandro Gini fare so well in our survey of Veronese wines.

The Gini family owns about 25 hectares of vineyards, mostly within the delimited area producing Soave.  Garganega is the grape, which most wineries over-crop to ridiculous levels.  No wonder Soave is often only slightly more flavorful than Pellegrino water.  If you're lucky.

Gini is really interested in "other" varieties, cultivating Pinot Nero, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.  When we visited, we tasted a bunch of barrels of Burgundy-wannabe's.  I finally inquired if there wasn't a bit of Soave in this sub-region of Burgundy!

The 2006 Gini Soave was a delicious wine.  Absolutely perfect!  The wine is made entirely of Garganega.  No Trebbiano (which dilutes the character of the wines, frankly).  Vinified in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks.  It's left on the spent yeast until bottling (some say this keeps the wine 'fresher') and bottled in the spring.  You'll want to drink this over the next year while it's youthfully fresh.  The wine is one of a handful of good Soaves (Anselmi and Pieropan also do good work, though we've been partial to Gini's).   It's one of the leading examples of Soave and should help give that somewhat tarnished name a bit of luster.

The current vintage is priced too high, so we're boycotting...this is a wine that should cost the consumer $16-$18 a bottle.  The weak dollar and inefficient importer seem to have impacted the pricing of this wine.

 

Currently In Stock:  GINI 2006 SOAVE CLASSICO Sold Out

 

ANSELMI

Unhappy with the pricing of the Gini Soave (above) currently, we set about to find a suitable replacement for the shop.

We've long known winemaker Roberto Anselmi from the Veneto.  He's another Soave-meister and a very quality conscious winemaker.  Several years ago Anselmi decided to eliminate the famous name of his wines from his labels.  Soave.  The name Anselmi has always been associated with Soave.  No longer, though.

It seems Roberto became disenchanted with the vineyard work of many of his neighbors.  People were greedy, over-cropping their vines in an attempt to cash in on the name Soave, even though they were making wines with all the character and complexity of Spring Water.  Anselmi decided if they were not going to respect the name "Soave," he ought to not be associated.  So, several years ago he stopped making "Soave" and now his entry-level bottling is called, merely, an IGT.  It bears the name "San Vincenzo" and the wine comes from a 45 hectare parcel in the Monforte area of the Soave region.  

Anselmi does a cold-soak of the grapes before cold-fermenting the juice with indigenous yeasts.  The wine is left on the spent yeast after the fermentation and they even stir the sediment from time to time trying to make a more complex wine.  The 2008 is remarkably good and it sells for a very modest price.  It's a crisp, simple, non-oaked dry white.  It's 80% Garganega, 5% Trebbiano (the two grapes of Soave) and 15% of an oddball variety called Chardonnay.  

 

Currently in stock:  2008 ANSELMI "SAN VINCENZO"  SALE $11.99



 

VIGNALTA

Colli Euganei are some hills located south west of Padova.  These are the result of volcanic activity which means the soil can be ideal for vineyard cultivation.  Unfortunately, the region hadn't been home to much in the way of "world class" wine.  Most of the stuff made there is what the British call "plonk," perfectly suitable for a spaghetti feed, but hardly of the caliber you'd feel comfortable in setting on the table for special guests.

We drove from Friuli to Verona one summer's day and made a short stop at Vignalta.  They have an enoteca to show off their wines in the town of Luvigliano di Torreglia.  The winery is up in the hills, though, of Arqua Petrarca.  It's quite a drive to the winery, especially since they keep a low profile and have no signs to guide you along the road!

The hills of the Colli Euganei feature two vastly different soil types.  One is volcanic, while the other is limestone.  The property comprises some 50 hectares and they have about 5 major vineyard sites. 

 

The region has been cultivating grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc for many years.  Most vineyards have been cropped for quantity production, so the region had never been esteemed for anything better than standard "vino da tavola." 

Vignalta has a small parcel of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, along with its Bordeaux varieties, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Moscato.  Crop levels are managed to sensible yields to achieve good results.  You'll find a "middle" to most of the wines at this estate.

The name "Vignalta" is certainly appropriate, as the winery is located high up in the hills, but it's quality of wine is certainly a great deal higher than its neighbors, too.  Two friends Franco Zanovello and Lucio Gomiero comprise the Vignalta "team."  They started the winery in 1986 and have gained great attention for the region thanks to their rather showy range of wines.  One of the duo became a big fan of the wines of Bordeaux's Pomerol region and felt it would be possible to make wines of similar quality in this previously unheralded region.  

 

 

Winemaker/Cellar man Michele Montecchio.

"Gemola" is a wine with the "Colli Euganei" appellation. It is predominantly Merlot with about 30% of Cabernet Franc.  The wine is typically matured in a high percentage of new (or recent vintage) oak barrels.  They use primarily French oak, though I read they even have a small percentage of American oak in the mix.  The 2004 is an excellent example of this wine, showing a touch of a tobacco note, as well as the nice character of the Bordeaux varieties without tasting like it's from Bordeaux.   A bottle of Château Petrus costs about a thousand bucks.  Gemola costs in the thirties..

Currently in stock:  2004 VIGNALTA "Gemola"  $36.99

Photo: Grapes being dried to "intensify" the character.  These will be crushed and made into "Amarone."
This photo was taken in February 2001 of fruit from the 2000 harvest.

AGRICOLA MASI

This is a large, family-owned firm, but with a few special wines of note. They make the full line-up of Veronese wines, Soave, Bardolino and, most importantly, Valpolicella wines. 

Valpolicella is a blend of three varieties, principally Corvina and Rondinella with Molinara playing a supporting role. It is often made as a fresh, rather light and fruity red wine. At the other end of the spectrum are wines called Recioto and Amarone, both made from Valpolicella-grown fruit, but the grapes are dried to concentrate aromas and flavors. Recioto wines typically have 3% residual sugar (or more), while the Amarone wines are basically dry.

 

 

The Boscaini family also manages the vineyards for the (supposed) descendants of Dante Alighieri.  We visited the property a few years ago, Masi having its sales and tasting facility on the property.  Some special wines are offered under the Serego Alighieri label.  We have their 2001 SEREGO ALIGHIERI VAIO ARMARON (sic).  This is said to be the "original" vineyard source of Amarone.  The wine is quite good, in any case.

 

 

Masi uses a special "trick" they devised called "ripasso". They add some of the dried grape skins from the Recioto or Amarone wine to a Valpolicella wine from the Campofiorin area of the Valgatara area, thus, re-initiating the fermentation, boosting color and strength of the wine. They've been doing this since the 1964 vintage and Campofiorin remains the "standard" for ripasso wines.

The Masi winemaker in the 1960s, Nino Franceschetti, was so pleased by the 1964 vintage wines, he added the skins from the Amarone into a tank of Valpolicella.  This was the birth of the Masi Campofiorin wine and an Italian icon was born.

We find it to be more interesting than "frivolous" Valpolicella wines and more versatile than the heavier Amarones.

The 2006 Campofiorin is currently in stock and it's a terrific bottle of wine.  We've tasted other, heavier, bigger ripasso wines and some Valpolicella producers seem intent upon making wines more similar to Cabernet Sauvignon in terms of power and oak.  This one is certainly a good example of Venetian wine and it's a good value at its modest price.

By the way, the Boscaini family trademarked the term "ripasso" and you'll see this used on the labels of numerous wines from neighboring wineries.  However, these competitors have to pay a royalty to Masi to use this designation on their wines!

If some tells you about a "Barolo" from the Veneto, they're probably telling you about a wine called "Brolo di Campofiorin," a new red from Masi.  The word "brolo" is a dialect word referring to what the French call a "Clos."   That is, an enclosed or walled vineyard.  The 1998 is showing nicely now, having developed nice bottle bouquet.

Currently available: 2006"Campofiorin" (List $17)  SALE $12.99
1998 "Brolo di Campofiorin" Sold Out

Amarone (list $65)  SALE $49.99

2001 Serego Alighieri "Vaio Armaron" (list $85) $74.99

MASI PHOTOS

LE RAGOSE

The Galli family have been making wine in the little town of Negrar since 1969. "Le Ragose" is the name of their site.   

They're a rather highly-regarded producer of Amarone wines, though they produce a standard bottling of Valpolicella.   Cabernet is also grown here and I'm not sure why as it makes rather herbal wine.  But, I suppose the Italians do like bell peppers.

In speaking with Paolo Galli, whose late Mom Marta had been the driving force behind this estate for many years, I sensed a fellow who who's passionate about making traditionally-styled wines.  He spoke about how many vintners are now using machines to concentrate the juice of their grapes and making ever bigger, more powerful wines.  "I'm not saying my wine is better than theirs.  My wine is different from those, however."  

The Le Ragose Amarone is not matured in large, neutral casks of Slavonian oak.  The wood allows the wine to mature slowly and it doesn't impart the fragrances or flavor of oak to the wine.  This is not terribly fashionable these days, as most people prefer wines which smell of vanilla and cedar.  Paolo prefers to highlight the "terroir" of the Le Ragose vineyards in his wines.

In any case, the 2001 Amarone at this house is a big, rich, full-throttle red wine.  The wine is 60% Corvina, 30% Rondinella and 10% "other."  You'll find a fragrance reminiscent of jam, tobacco, red fruits and a whiff of a woodsy note.  It is fine for stews or something with a lot of wild mushrooms, perhaps.  It is also the sort of wine which is serviceable after the main plate with a chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Currently available:  2001 Amarone (list $70)  SALE $59.99

 

CORTE GARDONI

The Piccoli family owns this lovely little estate, a 54 hectare property with 25 hectares of grape vines.

Bardolino and Bianco di Custoza are their main wines.  We've long been admirers of their simple, fresh, engaging little wines and are pleased to finally have some in the shop.

 

The winery was built in 1980, so it's not one of the older producers in the neighborhood. 

 

The Bianco di Custoza wines have been good alternatives to more pricey wines from nearby Soave.  Corte Gardoni makes its little wine from Garganega 40%, Trebbiano Toscano 20%, Trebbianello 10%, Bianca Fernanda 5% and Chardonnay 10%.  The 2008 is presently in stock.  It's not a wine which will blow your doors off, since it's really only intended to open a window.  Fresh, non-oaked, mildly appley and thoroughly drinkable...best in its youth as a cocktail white or pair it with mild seafood or pasta dishes.

 

Currently in stock:  2008 CORTE GARDONI Bianco di Custoza  $11.99

 

ALLEGRINI

With about 45 hectares of vineyards, the Allegrini family has been a major force in the Veneto with Amarone and associated wines from the Valpolicella area.  

They're modernists and have made some lovely wines, but these days the prices have escalated and we've lost a bit of interest in the wines, frankly.   It seems they have the "Why pay less" mentality or subscribe to the notion that "If we don't charge you a lot of money, you won't think we make good wines."  

They recently added a Soave to the portfolio and this wine seems to indicate the winery is more about marketing than it is about top quality wine.  We've been shown the wine on a couple of occasions and found the Soave to be perfectly serviceable to tourists sitting on Lake Garda, but not sufficiently interesting for people choosing a bottle of Italian white wine in a shop with dozens of intriguing options.

With a large range of wines being made by Allegrini these days, we now carry only their Amarone.  It's hugely expensive and it is a good wine.  The wine is a modern example of Amarone and it's technically well-made.  The wine is matured in small French oak for about a year and a half and then further developed in large wood tanks.  You'll sense a bit of the barrique, but it's not overwhelmingly oaky.  

They're making a number of proprietary wines, some based on local varieties with some internationally-famous grapes incorporated, while making some totally "foreign" wines such as a Cabernet-Merlot-Syrah blend.

 


CLICK HERE FOR PHOTOS OF ALLEGRINI.

Currently available:  Valpolicella Special Order
2003 "Giovanni Allegrini" Recioto Special order...around $80
2004 Amarone $89.99

We can special order many of the Allegrini wines for you...

 

 

 

 

 

 

CESARI

A family-run winery, these people own a few vineyards, but also buy most of the fruit for their wines.   I have, for years, felt their Amarone, found in many San Francisco Bay Area restaurants, was more distinctive for the frosted black bottle than for the wine inside.   The only reason we carried the wine was because enough people had requested it.   

The current vintage shows Cesari is on a learning curve or, at least, they're improving the quality of their Amarone.  The  wine is not amongst the elite in terms of compelling, big, deep, complex Amarone wines, but if you're  looking for a reasonably-priced bottling, Cesari is your wine.  

Currently in stock:  Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella (List $40)  SALE $35.99

CAMPAGNOLA

The Campagnola name has long been associated with wines from the Valpolicella area.  They recently celebrated their 100th anniversary...

The company owns vineyards in the Valpolicella area and they have a bustling negociant business, too.

The firm is still operated by the Campagnola family and they make a range of wines, from basic, entry level plonk to really good Valpolicella and Amarone wines.

We currently have a few half bottles of a good example of Amarone.  It's nice to have this format, since Amarone can be such a challenging wine, especially in warm weather...

 

Currently in stock:  CAMPAGNOLA AMARONE 1/2 bottles  $21.99

VILLABELLA

If you've not heard of the Villabella estate in the Veneto, don't feel badly.  We had not heard of them, either!

They've been around, though, since the 1970s and, apparently, flying well below the radar.

They're based quite close to the town of Bardolino in a village called Calmasino close to the eastern shores of Lake Garda.  They make an old-styled Bardolino, not the simple, Beaujolais-styled little wine one finds routinely these days.  

A ripasso Valpolicella is also good, but we were most impressed with Villabella's Amarone.

With some estates making a wine redolent of raisins and others spotlighting the use of French oak barrels, we were enchanted by a wine made in a 'classic' style without the weird, volatile acidity of many Amarone wines.  

The Amarone grapes are dried for nearly 4 months.   The wine predominantly Corvina, with about 25% Rondinella and 10% Negrara.  It's matured for approximately three years in wood.  They age the wine in large Slavonian oak rather than small French oak barrels.  Many Amarone wines are merely 'jam juice,' but this one has a firm backbone and a mildly tannic 'bite' to it.  We view most Amarone wines to be useful partnered with cheeses, but this wine seems to have greater versatility.  It can be paired with well-seasoned roasts or stews.
It's offered at a nice price, too.

Currently in stock:  2001 VILLABELLA Amarone  $39.99

 

 

 

CA' DEL BOSCO

Maurizio Zanella is the driving force of this producer in Lombardia.  Located within the region of the Franciacorta denominazione, the winery was founded in 1968.  Zanella is extremely proud of the wines and bubbly made here and prices the wines as though he was an American medical insurance economist.


I recall tasting his wines a couple of times and finding the wines to be of stellar quality.  


One occasion was at VinItaly (a huge wine fair in Verona) and Zanella spent a lot of time telling me exactly how good the wines were that I was tasting.  He invited me to join a group at VinItaly and we would board a helicopter and fly from Verona to Erbusco, home of the winery.  

I did not accept the invitation and recall dining with some old friends from Piemonte who told me I was crazy not to be wining and dining in a more fancy mode with Zanella and his ensemble that night.  I explained to my friends that it was uncomfortable to have to have someone tell me how good his wines were over a ten minute period, it would be even more difficult to have to listen to hours of the same. And no way to escape, short of hijacking the helicopter. 
If you make wine of such extraordinary quality, all you need to do is pour the wine in a glass and wait for people to heap praise on you!  You needn't break your arm patting yourself on the back.

A good pal went to work for Zanella some years ago and he extended an invitation to visit.  We did.  
However, Zanella would not permit our winemaking buddy to open any bottles of wine for us, since we had not been "approved" to visit.  I am certain we'd have been treated royally had we taken the time to "apply" for a Ca' del Bosco visitation "visa."  We had not, figuring our friend worked there, after all!  

"Luigi" (not his real name) quit his job there shortly after our visit.  He and the other cellar rats had to take barrel samples to the lab so we could, at the very least, taste some wines during our visit.  Luigi told us that Zanella does not permit enologists from other wineries onto the premises, in fear these friends of his staffers would "steal" the secrets of their winemaking success!  I guess it never dawned on Zanella these people might have a suggestion or two which would make his wines even more extraordinary.

It seems, despite all the accolades trumpeted by critics, that the winery was not a huge financial success and the Zanella family took on an investor in 1994.  

I am still able to objectively taste and evaluate the wines of this winery.  Most are extraordinary.  

We've had their "Franciacorta" Brut sparkling wine, a bubbly which easily rivals the famous names of Champagne.  It is made in the same fashion as top French Champagne, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay being the base.  I believe they also include some Pinot Bianco.  The wine is toasty, dry and creamy...very fine.  But at its $50 retail price, we'll wait.  It is available by special order, though, coming 6 bottles to a box and we'll offer it at a discounted price.
  
Also exceptional is a Pinot Noir, dubbed "Pinero."  This is reminiscent of Russian River Valley Pinots from producers such as Dehlinger or Williams-Selyem.  Sweetly-oaked, Pinero has a toasty element and deep, cherryish fruit.  

As with other famous top wineries around the world (Gaja, Romanée-Conti, Mondavi, to name a few), one pays a "tax" for the Ca' del Bosco name.  

Currently in stock:  Ca' del Bosco Brut  Sold Out Presently--Special Order available
1998 Pinero $76.99

Also currently available by special order (as of March 2010):
Brut Rose Sparkling Wine (List $95)   SALE $420/6pk (only in 6pk)

Cuvee Annamaria Clementi (List $154/bottle)  Sale $129.99

Curtefranca Bianco (80% Chardonnay/20% Pinot Bianco)  (List Price $49/bottle)  SALE $240/6pk  (6pk format only)

BATTISTOTTI

The Battistotti family winery began back in the 1940s and today the place is in its third generation.  Three Battistotti brothers take care of the cellar and vineyards in the Trento sub-region of Vallagarina.

Amongst other wines, they make Marzemino, a wine made famous not in some rap singer's lyrics of today, but some fellow name Mozart.  His little piece called Don Giovanni...in the second act there's a reference to the "excellent Marzemino," so the wine has been known for at least a few hundred years.  If you know the wines of Teroldego and Lagrein, two other Trentino-Alto Adige reds, Marzemino is the "other" main red grape of the region.

Battistotti's is a medium-light bodied red.  It displays some bright, berryish notes on the nose and palate.  You can pair this nicely with chicken or a light pasta, pizza or grilled sausages.  We like it served at cool cellar temp.

 

Currently in stock:  BATTISTOTTI MARZEMINO  Currently sold out

"CINQUE TERRE"

The Liguria region along the Italian Riviera features some wonderful little villages.  The city of Genoa is crammed into a series of canyons and you wonder who designed such a mess.
Once south of Genoa, there are numerous autostrada exits leading to the little hamlets tucked into the hills.
Five villages account for the "Cinque Terre" designation on a wine bottle.  It is on some steep hills overlooking the Mediterranean that a number of winemakers cultivate some unusual grape varieties that make the wines of the region so curious.   The main grape is "Bosco," with contributions from Albarola and Vermentino.


These are the sorts of wines that taste especially good on their home turf.  It's not that the wines don't travel well...it's the experience of being so far away from the hustle and bustle of home and in some small restaurant with a great view, good food and a nice bottle of wine.  

Pesto, of course, is a mainstay of Ligurian 'cucina.'  Fresh seafood is also abundant.  And so is the Cinque Terre wine.


  

Currently in stock:   2007 Cinque Terre  $19.99

COLLE DEI BARDELLINI

One of of favorite little wines from Liguria is not the well-known "Cinque Terre," but it comes from farther north and west near San Remo.  

Near the town of Imperia you'll find the winery (and agriturismo) of Colle dei Bardellini, an estate founded in 1970.  The estate focuses on Vermentino and an even more particular grape called Pigato.  

It takes its name Pigato from the pighe or little spots that develop on the skin of the grapes as they ripen.  Some people claim the variety has its origins in Greece and we've seen some studies indicating Pigato and Vermentino are closely related.

The Riviera Ligure di Ponente is the home of Pigato, or at least it's where the variety seems to be the most interesting.  

Colle dei Bardellini is a small estate of four hectares of vines and they make just 50,000 bottles of wine annually.  Their "Riviera" bottling from 2005 is remarkably good.  It's the best I've tasted over the past decade, featuring nice fresh apple and pear notes with an underlying peppery quality.  Naturally, being so close to the sea, this is perfect with seafood, but it's also great with a salad featuring bitter greens, pears, walnuts, etc.

Currently in stock:  2005 COLLE DEI BARDELLINI Pigato "Riviera di Ponente"  $19.99

MANARA

The wines from Italy's Veneto region have become more prestigious over the past decade and you can spend well more than $100 for certain producer's Valpolicella and Amarone wines these days.

As readers of these pages and regular customers at our little wine shop know, we appreciate famous estates and noteworthy winemakers.  But we're all the more delighted to find some less-heralded producer or someone who's serious about quality without all the hype.

The Manara family has a small domaine of 11 hectares in and around Negrar.  There are three brothers involved in the vineyards and winery, producing a range of Valpolicella wines.  

Of course, Amarone is a featured wine and we're fans of one called "Postera."  The name refers to a sun-drenched vineyard atop a hill near Negrar in the localita called "Moron."  (I kid you not...there's actually a place in the Veneto called "Moron."  Imagine living there and having to tell people that you are, amongst other things, a real Moron!)  

We have the 2001 Postera Amarone in the shop and this is a marvelous wine, vying with Allegrini's Amarone for our customer's attention.  The wine is 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella with the rest split between Dindarella and Croatina.  The wine sees Slavonian oak as well as small French wood barriques.  We like the stewed berry notes from the fruit and the mildly cedary tones from the oak.  It's a medium-full bodied wine and it's "modern" enough to be served with braised, roasted or grilled meats.   It is drinkable now and it will cellar nicely for a few more years.  Now is fine, though.

 

Currently in stock:  2001 MANARA "AMARONE" $49.99

ZENATO

The Zenato family winery began nearly 50 years ago and today the enterprise is sizable and growing.  They own about 50 hectares of their own vines and rent other sites, producing about a million bottles of wine annually.

The quality of their 'normal' wines is rather standard, but at the top end of the portfolio you'll find wines of interest.  

They make a good Amarone and we have the 2004 in stock.  It's a deep, mildly raisiny wine with a light tannic 'bite' which is perfect for rich foods or a selection of ripe cheeses.

We can order their other wines for you, too.

Currently in stock:  2004 ZENATO AMARONE (list $75) SALE $67.99

 

MURI-GRIES

The history of this winery dates back to 1845 when some 'brothers' from the Swiss Muri monastery needed to high-tail it out of the country.  They fled from northern Switzerland and made their way to a location near Bolzano in the Sudtirol, which today is in Italy.  

The monks have long cultivated the Lagrein grape in this location and it's pretty much "the" red grape of Italy's Alto Adige.  I remember my first introduction to the "Abtei Muri" Lagrein:  a friend from the Sudtirol organized a dinner attended by a bunch of people who were on a wine and food tour of California a few years earlier.  Everyone was to bring a bottle of their favorite wine.  I recall the Abtei Muri Lagrein as being something truly special.

Today, in fact, many people view the Abtei Muri Lagrein as the benchmark for the Lagrein grape.  I had an opportunity to taste dozens of Lagrein wines from the Alto Adige and can tell you there are other good producers these days whose wines rival the Muri-Gries wine.  

Still, here's a grand bottle of Lagrein that's a classic.  The wine spends 20-something months in oak, sufficient time to add a bit of wood and round out the tannins.  Deep, dark berry fruit notes are typical and you'll find pleasantly cedary, woodsy tones as well.

 

 

 

Currently in stock:  2004 "ABTEI MURI" LAGREIN RISERVA  $44.99
We can order their Pinot Grigio for you...12 bottles to a case.

 

The Mumelter family owns a little winery called Griesbauerhof...

GEORG MUMELTER

In this day when so many wines are hugely alcoholic, made from grapes picked well over a normal degree of ripeness, some people appreciate red wines from "a different era."

The tiny estate of the Mumelter family, comprises about 3 hectares of vineyards.  

They make a lovely, light, remarkably quaffable little red wine called "Santa Maddalena" (St. Magdalener in German), a wine that's predominantly the Schiava (Vernatsch in German) grape.  Schiava covers about 30% of the vineyard land in the Alto Adige, yet it's very rarely seen in our market.  When everybody is buying huge red wines that are pumped up with grape concentrate, hugely oaked and sometimes even a little bit sweet, the demand for light dry red wine is rather limited.  This wine is predominantly Schiava with a small percentage of Lagrein, though I think these can have a bit of Pinot Nero in them as well.

Happily we have some customers who appreciate "drinkability" in a wine.  This is the sort of easy little red which is delicious in warm weather, served lightly chilled.  It's not a big, oaky red.  It's not tannic and robust.  But it does taste good with ham, prosciutto, chicken and other light fare.  We even had it with a cream-sauced pasta...very nice!

Currently in stock:  2007 GRIESBAUERHOF ST. MAGDALENER $16.99

Georg Mumelter

Margareth Mumelter pours a glass of their Santa  Maddalena Classico

PROSECCO

This is a grape variety and a very popular wine in Italy's Veneto region.  The main towns where it is made are Conegliano and Valdobbiadene.  We currently have several Prosecco wines, each made in "sparkling" or "Spumante" versions.   

The grape itself makes a rather simple and ordinary white wine.  Made into fizzy wine, called frizzante, it becomes more majestic.  The "spumante" versions can be even more interesting. 

 

SORELLE BRONCA (list $18) SALE $14.99 is made by Ersiliana e Antonella Bronca in Colbertaldo dei Vidor near Valdobbiadene.  Yes, that's a mouth-full!  The Bronca sisters make a wonderfully aromatic bubbly which comes close to being dry, yet isn't sweet enough to taste sweet. It has become one of our most popular bubblies!

RUGGERI "Gold Label"  $8.99 (375ml)
RUGGERI "Gold Label" SALE $13.99 (750ml)
Not many half-bottles of Prosecco are available in our market, but the Ruggeri is nice when you want just a couple of glasses and a full bottle is too much.

This is a delightful little bubbly, capturing the acacia blossom and ripe apple fruit of the Prosecco grape.

DRUSIAN (List $16) SALE $13.99
Drusian is a Prosecco-meister.  His wine is rather dry, very nicely floral and fruity on the nose and palate.  It's a delight.  Not as dry as a Brut sparkler, but not as sweet as most "Extra Dry" wines.




CANEVEL Brut  PROSECCO $18.99

While many Italian wineries have 10 generations and centuries of history, Canevel does not.  What they lack in "romance", however, they make up for with the quality (good, actually) of their product.  

The company started in 1987 with a small office and warehouse space, essentially, which served as the production facility.  The name Canevel is not that of the owner's family, his grandmother or the vineyard.  Instead, it's a Venetian slang word which translates to something like "a small corner of the winery where the secrets are jealously guarded."

When you taste this bubbly, you'll notice there's not much of a secret here.  It's simply good Prosecco, nicely aromatic and blossomy on the nose and crisp on the finish.  Easy-drinkin' and affordable, too.  And this is a bit of a rarity as most of these wines are off-dry and in the "Extra Dry" category.  Canevel's is actually "Brut," so you'll find it somewhat drier than other Prosecco sparklers.

 

CENTRAL and SOUTHERN ITALIA

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Last modified:  September 2, 2010